Straw Poll - Best 1-Piece Rotors

[DrumrBoy]

I've tried a bunch of different rotors and the ones that seem to behave best are Frozen Rotors' cryo-treated and slotted stock Viper units. However, after a 3-4 track days, everything I've tried cracks....well before it seems like they're thin.

I'm using Hawk Blue pads. Everything stops well, they just seem to crack prematurely.

So, straw poll: what are the best 1-Piece rotors out there - in terms of standing up to abuse?

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

Do you have cooling ducts?

What kind of cracks? Not all cracks are bad.

 

[Steve 00RT/10]

I had good luck with the stock rotors the car came with. 6 track sessions and 74,000 miles. I changed them this past spring. They were worn to the limits, but a little bluing once in a while after a track session was the only sign of excessive heat. I have Tom's 40mm calipers in the rear and run B3s on the track. I bought some new 'plain' rotors a year ago in anticipation of the change for roughly $60 bucks each, including shipping. I ran Gingerman again this spring, toasted my B3 pads (rears faster than fronts), and saw no evidence of any problems at all when I put the EBCs back on. I've got about 7000 miles on them now. A quick check shows those rotors at $80F/$68R now...including shipping.

Steve

 

[GTS Dean]

OEM replacement StopTechs.

The only kind of rotors that don't crack are the ones that don't get driven. It's how they relieve thermal stress.

 

[PhilC]

I second the duct thought. I think it's one of the best things you can do to improve the brake system for the track.

 

[Steve 00RT/10]

OEM replacement StopTechs.

The only kind of rotors that don't crack are the ones that don't get driven. It's how they relieve thermal stress.

I don't get it? If they all crack if driven hard, why spend a bunch more money?

Steve

 

[DrumrBoy]

Thanks for the input guys.

Chuck - I have both kinds of cracks, not-so-bad and bad, I put some pix below. In the side view, it seems to me like they're not terribly worn down (one can see they're still relatively thick, though cracked).....I'm guessing 3/16ths worth of wear since the slots are almost gone.

I don't have cooling ducts and should do that. I currently run the fog lights, is removing them the best way to get cold air to the brakes or is there a less invasive means of channeling air there?

Steve, thanks for the que on the stock rotors. $70 bucks is not such a bitter pill to swallow....some of the aftermarket stuff goes up to $200+ a piece....and if Dean is right, why spend 3X more for 10% more life...

Dean, thanks for the que on Stoptechs, in your opinion do they last longer, grip better, both or neither. What advantage is there over stock - they certainly cost more. Not challenging that there's an advantage - just don't have any firsthand experience.

Here's what mine always end up looking like. I take an extra set with me to track events so I can change 'em in the spot when the bad cracks appear.

Again,

I appreciate the comments, experience and advice.

 

[DrumrBoy]

Oh yeah, Phil, I'll talk to you about your cooling duct strategy in a bit!

 

[rogerdarabbit]

Water misting? Something to look into.

 

[GTSnake]

Wow, and I thought my cracks were bad. (hold off on the wise cracks.....)

 

[GTS Dean]

The StopTechs have superior cooling vanes, they're lighter, directional, and are available with slots to help wipe the brake pad dust as they go by. I get mine thru Parts Rack.

I don't have conventional ducting - just Porsche deflectors and openings in the wheel well tops under the hood louvers. The MOST IMPORTANT THING to do with stock(ish) Viper rotors is to KEEP AIR MOVING THROUGH THEM AFTER YOU COME OFF THE TRACK.

 

[JonB]

Carry your dental records in a separate location. The crack below is Pre-catastrophic. The rotor could disintegrate under extreme-speed hard braking and take out your brake lines (NO BRAKES), your caliper, and send shrapnel thru the fender splash shields, and even pierce like a bullet thru the hood. Before you hit the wall, your last thoughts WON'T be of the money you saved on cheap rotors. You might survive the impact, and even get out before the fire, IF you have competent help quickly arrive at the impact scene.



(I am NOT trying to make a sale, but save your life.)

Thanks for the input guys.

Chuck - I have both kinds of cracks, not-so-bad and bad, I put some pix below.

Again,

I appreciate the comments, experience and advice.

 

[Dom426h]

A few questions regarding 1-piece rotors:

How much are these stoptech 1-piece rotors?

Are they comparable to the EBC 1-piece? (performance)

Are either of these considered an upgrade(to any degree) over stock?

 

[PhilC]

GTs Dean, what strategy do you use to keep air flowing to them after you come off the track or just try to get the best cool down lap possible. I believe that this is critical, just haven't a good idea how to implement. Is there such a thing as brake fans?

 

[PhilC]

Btw Bob, definately do something about this. Those cracks look dangerous to me. I've used a bunch of the stop techs from Jon b and I've also tried the 2 piece ones from Sean Roe. I've never had cracks like those in either case.

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

Holy smokes! Those are cracks!!! DO NOT DRIVE UNTIL YOU GET THOSE ROTORS REPLACED.

I use two-piece Stoptechs up front. I use an aggressive pad and they still hold up pretty well.
I run stock rotors on the rears. NOTE: if anyone has any stock rears please send them to me.

Do not use the fog lights for brake cooling. Instead you can get scoops and ducting and steal air from in front of the radiator. If you get the Cone kit from JonB it should have all the instructions.

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

GTs Dean, what strategy do you use to keep air flowing to them after you come off the track or just try to get the best cool down lap possible. I believe that this is critical, just haven't a good idea how to implement. Is there such a thing as brake fans?

Deano runs a cool down lap. Every experienced tracker runs a cool down lap. I've even continued cooling down on skid pads. It's also a good idea to bring a fan or two and drive right up in front of them so the air blows directly through the radiator and brake ducts.

Yes, there are also brake fans which wouldn't be a bad idea. I'll look for the link.

 

[PhilC]

Thanks Chuck.

 

[GTS Dean]

GTs Dean, what strategy do you use to keep air flowing to them after you come off the track or just try to get the best cool down lap possible. I believe that this is critical, just haven't a good idea how to implement. Is there such a thing as brake fans?

It *IS* critical. In addition to the cool-down lap, I do not park my car until the radiator fans begin to cycle from low to high speed as normal. I putt around the pits or entrance road until things stabilize. Don't set your parking brake with hot rotors, they could warp.

The stock rotors in the following picture got to over 1400F operating temperature.

 

[Steve 00RT/10]

I've only been on 4 different tracks (besides VOIs) and one 3 day school, but I always thought the cool down lap was a given seeing as when I've been checkered off at the start line, you do one more lap basically not touching the brakes at all. The only times anyone comes in without a cool down lap is when they're removed for whatever reason

I am curious about the stock OEM rotors. Mine were Raybestos -- probably one of the largest rotor makers in the world. Are they not safe for occasional track use? They would certainly be classified as a cheap rotor. I had excellent luck with mine and replaced them with a similar product once they got close to nominal thickness. I normally go through about 50% of my B3 pads per 80-100 mile session....sometimes more. My rotors lasted a long time with no outside cracking as shown above. I'm guessing a good 700 track miles and 74,000 regular miles. Zero warping, a few very small internal cracks, and a little bluing once in a while. I have to think that excepting racing Vipers, more track miles have been realized with OEM rotors than any other.

Steve

 

[Dom426h]

getting back to the original post about 1piece rotors...

A few questions regarding 1-piece rotors:

How much are these stoptech 1-piece rotors?

Are they comparable to the EBC 1-piece? (performance)

Are either of these considered an upgrade(to any degree) over stock?

 

[GTS Dean]

Answering the same question again - StopTech OEM replacements are a worthy upgrade. Check with Parts Rack on pricing.

 

[WOT!]

Man an I disappointed...

I saw this on the main page "Straw Poll - Best 1-Piece... Last Post: Today..." and thought I was going to see hot women in swim suites!

Those are some rough looking rotors.

 

[SquadX]

Man an I disappointed...

I saw this on the main page "Straw Poll - Best 1-Piece... Last Post: Today..." and thought I was going to see hot women in swim suites!

Those are some rough looking rotors.

LOL.....
Sorry I cant add to the thread.

 

[DrumrBoy]

Thanks for the ideas, especially the non-fog-light cooling strategy.

Jon B, I completely agree, these cracks happened DURING a session, I couldn't believe it myself...that's alot of crack for one 20 minute session. I do check both front rotors every time I come off the track.....saw these and changed them immediately - kept them around for photos which I got around to doing when I posted this.

I always use a cool down lap but will supplement that with some pitside puttering to allow more time for cooling. In another related thread someone mentioned moving the car ever so slightly a couple of times after shutting down in order to expose a new section of rotor out from under the calipers....as the area the caliper is sitting over doesn't cool as quickly as the rest. Good idea, I'll try that.

Jon B, I'll give you a ring in the next week or two and order a new set and see if I can keep 'em around a bit longer than I did these.

At the event last month I was using the brakes hard, not that the corner workers are the best judges, but apparently they could smell 'em too!

 

[Dom426h]

thanks dean, any comparison to the EBC's or did u just start with the stoptechs and stick with em