HHI VIPER
Viper Owner
The new version JL Audio 6w3 does not fit my 2001 RT/10! Anyone have any suggestions on a new sub? Thanks!
Kicker makes the only other 6.5" sub I've been able to find--the 08CVT654.
What was the matter with the JL sub? Mounting depth, or bolt hole diameter? I've been thinking about a pair of these for my GTS, but if they won't fit...
The new version JL Audio 6w3 does not fit my 2001 RT/10! Anyone have any suggestions on a new sub? Thanks!
Mounting depth of the new version. The new is 4.5 "vs" the old of 3.5.Kicker makes the only other 6.5" sub I've been able to find--the 08CVT654.
What was the matter with the JL sub? Mounting depth, or bolt hole diameter? I've been thinking about a pair of these for my GTS, but if they won't fit...
From what my stereo GURU says, the 6wo is the previous version and the 6w3 is the new. The 6wo is 3.5" depth and the new 6w3 is 4.5". The rubber ring makes no difference! I even put a 1/2" spacer in and it was still at least 1/4" from mounting.It will fit - you just need to remove the rubber ring around the magnet and it will then be allowed to be mounted flush using the factory grill, if desired. I have a GEN2 and that's what I did, as well as drilling a few new mounting holes so the "JL" would be straight in the hole.
You must be registered for see images
The new 6w3 magnet is huge compared to the 6wo!It will fit - you just need to remove the rubber ring around the magnet and it will then be allowed to be mounted flush using the factory grill, if desired. I have a GEN2 and that's what I did, as well as drilling a few new mounting holes so the "JL" would be straight in the hole.
You must be registered for see images
I have a 2001 RT/10. Not sure of the size for the GTS. The 6 1/2" JL 6w3 subwoofer is the new version of the previous 6w0 from what I have been told. The 6w0 was a fit but the new version is a 6w3 and it is 1" deeper to mount. Hope this helps!Interested as well..........
Mounting depth of the new version. The new is 4.5 "vs" the old of 3.5.
Thanks for the help Vman! I have not heard of Lanzar but MB Quart has always been good in the past from my experience! I will check both out! Thanks again.OK, I just measured the depth of the subwoofer enclosures on a GTS, and it looks like the JL will not fit these either (depth is just under 4" in the center, 3" at the top, over 5" at the bottom of the cutout). Also, the enclosures are not wide enough to enlarge the holes and install 8" subs like FROG did (or looks like, I should say--I'm not sure if they are 8" or something larger).
RickViper, subs are a drop-in installation, and should work fine with the stock amplifier (as you're just replacing the subwoofers that are already there). Additionally, there is a switch on the amplifier marked "R-C" that, if flipped to "C" (I think) turns on the low-pass filter for the rear channels.
Curious which one will hit harder, MB Quart, Kicker or JL Audio. Obviously you cannot get a cannon "BOOM" out of a BB Gun but I wish I could hear all at the same time.Just did a quick online search and found two more subs that may fit: Lanzar VW64 and MB Quart PVI 164. Not sure about mounting depth, and the peak power ratings vary widely (600w for the Lanzar vs. 140w for the MB Quart). Both the Kicker and JL are rated at 300w peak/150w RMS.
Actually mine were 6.5's, not 8"... just for the record.
Please let us know how you like them! Thanks!Not sure. I just ordered a pair of the Kickers and will install them as soon as I get them. If you're willing to wait, I can let you know how they sound when I get them in.
Hey Vman...Buy any subs yet? Still trying to get an idea which one "boom boom" wise to go with. Thinking of going with the JL 6W0. Ebay has them for $100.In that case, I think the Kicker will be your best bet for direct-fit, as it is only 3" deep. For us GTS guys I'm not sure, but I think there may be more depth in the factory enclosures. Since I have my subs removed already, I'll measure the holes tomorrow and post here.
I'll wait and see how you like the sound! I am sure you already know this, but try to isolate the rear channel and balance to one side if you can to get a better idea. (I have a GenII with one speaker) And thanks!I ordered the Kickers online (found them for $70 each), and they're supposed to arrive tomorrow. I probably won't have time to install them this weekend, but I should be able to get them in the car early next week. I also ordered components for the doors, and am deciding on what amplifier and head unit to go with. After that, Dynamat for the whole interior, and it's off to the races...
Vman...Did you go 4 ohm or 8 ohm? Whats the diff??? Thanks for the report as well!!!OK, I got the Kicker subwoofers today and put them in a little while ago (despite the freezing temps and my unheated garage...I couldn't wait). I installed one first, leaving the other factory sub in place to compare. Impressions: The Kickers are not appreciably louder, likely due to their (relatively) low sensitivity and the fact that they're on the stock amplifier. But the Kickers are MUCH tighter and cleaner. In upgrading my system, I was looking to get rid of a lot of the unfocused bass, and these speakers fit the bill. Installation was a breeze; the subs dropped in with no clearance or alignment issues. For RT owners with one center sub, you may want to drill new holes if you're insistent on having the logo absolutely vertical; on the GTS, they lined up with the logo canted slightly toward the center of the car on either side. Also, you may or may not want to use polyfill in the box; I tried it first without and then with, but didn't notice much difference.
Next up: Dynamat to stop the buzzing, and a higher-power amplifier. The Kickers are rated at much higher power-handling than the stock speakers, so they should eat it up.
Vman...Did you go 4 ohm or 8 ohm? Whats the diff??? Thanks for the report as well!!!
Thanks again Vman!4 ohm. The stock subs are 6 ohm, but others have used 4 ohm with the stock amp and been fine, so I did too.
Also, I incorrectly reported the switch position for the low-pass filter on the stock amplifier. I just checked mine, and "R" turns it on, "C" is full range.