Torquemonster
Enthusiast
Lightweight/hi tech alloy Aluminum or magnesium castings, carbon fibre or aluminum driveshafts, 7 speed sequential box from Xtrac, dry sumped intregal transfer casing etc?
Jrkermode all these things will put a ***** on a jelly fish.
My concern re hi tech was large Dana rear end vs Porsche/Nissan etc.... the weight and size difference is huge. The Nissan units for example are very compact but enormously strong... and with proper upgrades handle 1350hp and 7 seconds passes... yet weigh and measure substantially less than the big Mopar units.
electronic AWD cut out? ahhhh grasshopper, now you see where the R & D goes and why it's sometimes worth spending the money with those who've spent 1000 times that to save re-inventing the wheel. The Nissan AWD system used on the Skylines such as the legendary GTR vary drive to the front with power load... so they are rear wheel drive until power comes on, and they load power to the front up to a predetermined limit (usually 40%)by full throttle. It is simple electronics to adjust the rate, the limits or turn off... and could be done via a knob on the dash. Skylines run a fuse box, so to switch to rear wheel drive for dyno, you pull the fuse, but this could be wired to a switch to make it easier.
Lets throw in some titanium/aluminum rods as used in Pro Stock trucks for super strength, light weight, and durability, run oil skirters to them, hand form the prototype piston to achieve a tight 0.040" quench as a model for CNC mass production. I'd like 0.0375" myself, but if you want to rpm over 7000rpm, 0.040 is safer. A good roller cam grind with fast ramp, high lift and anti-reversion headers and airflow spirals tuned into the intakes, and a MOTEC or factory pc infintitely tunable EFI setup, maybe anti-reversion titanium valves.... and we're talking one crisp V10... with teflon coated piston skirts, ceramic crowns, top shelf rings... and a head job that started from a clean slate maxed out recast head, that was port tuned and built up to reduce cross-sectional area in key areas until you break the sound barrier in air speed without dropping max flow. Compression? Who cares, its the quench and cylinder pressure that matters right thru the rpms... Tune this baby right and a blip on the throttle will be like cracking a whip! Force the air in and you can smoke all 4 all the way down the block.
low centre of gravity is key - so how about doing something radical like instead of mounting the engine per normal - as we have to recast the sump anyway - sit the engine on a plate that runs under it at minimum ground clearance level under full suspension compression (plus a safety margin). The engine has to lift the plate to twist the chassis, but this can be countered by electric struts (non load bearing) that push against sideways engine movement with equal force to maintain the engine straight up and cancelling out torque twist.... just an idea. But the engine would have no weight bearing higher than the plate under it. There are sealing issues - but nothing too difficult I wouldn't think - even if it required a second sump sandwich inside. The mounting plate could actually be the dry sump/transfer casing mounted to the chassis via vibration proof mounts that do not allow any side to side flex or twist (as that wouldn't be good for wheel alignment)... is this a stupid idea or what?
Jrkermode all these things will put a ***** on a jelly fish.
My concern re hi tech was large Dana rear end vs Porsche/Nissan etc.... the weight and size difference is huge. The Nissan units for example are very compact but enormously strong... and with proper upgrades handle 1350hp and 7 seconds passes... yet weigh and measure substantially less than the big Mopar units.
electronic AWD cut out? ahhhh grasshopper, now you see where the R & D goes and why it's sometimes worth spending the money with those who've spent 1000 times that to save re-inventing the wheel. The Nissan AWD system used on the Skylines such as the legendary GTR vary drive to the front with power load... so they are rear wheel drive until power comes on, and they load power to the front up to a predetermined limit (usually 40%)by full throttle. It is simple electronics to adjust the rate, the limits or turn off... and could be done via a knob on the dash. Skylines run a fuse box, so to switch to rear wheel drive for dyno, you pull the fuse, but this could be wired to a switch to make it easier.
Lets throw in some titanium/aluminum rods as used in Pro Stock trucks for super strength, light weight, and durability, run oil skirters to them, hand form the prototype piston to achieve a tight 0.040" quench as a model for CNC mass production. I'd like 0.0375" myself, but if you want to rpm over 7000rpm, 0.040 is safer. A good roller cam grind with fast ramp, high lift and anti-reversion headers and airflow spirals tuned into the intakes, and a MOTEC or factory pc infintitely tunable EFI setup, maybe anti-reversion titanium valves.... and we're talking one crisp V10... with teflon coated piston skirts, ceramic crowns, top shelf rings... and a head job that started from a clean slate maxed out recast head, that was port tuned and built up to reduce cross-sectional area in key areas until you break the sound barrier in air speed without dropping max flow. Compression? Who cares, its the quench and cylinder pressure that matters right thru the rpms... Tune this baby right and a blip on the throttle will be like cracking a whip! Force the air in and you can smoke all 4 all the way down the block.
low centre of gravity is key - so how about doing something radical like instead of mounting the engine per normal - as we have to recast the sump anyway - sit the engine on a plate that runs under it at minimum ground clearance level under full suspension compression (plus a safety margin). The engine has to lift the plate to twist the chassis, but this can be countered by electric struts (non load bearing) that push against sideways engine movement with equal force to maintain the engine straight up and cancelling out torque twist.... just an idea. But the engine would have no weight bearing higher than the plate under it. There are sealing issues - but nothing too difficult I wouldn't think - even if it required a second sump sandwich inside. The mounting plate could actually be the dry sump/transfer casing mounted to the chassis via vibration proof mounts that do not allow any side to side flex or twist (as that wouldn't be good for wheel alignment)... is this a stupid idea or what?