FastestBusaAround
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Anyone make one yet for the Gen IV's?
Supercharger SRT10 '08
- Thread starter FastestBusaAround
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mjorgensen Woodhouse
Enthusiast
The cost for the S/C parts alone are about $20K! that and only a modest increase in power is why they will not sell well. I was approached about this, but felt that it would be a very small market at this price point. Nice to see someone trying though, and you would be laying the ground work in the rebuild if there comes a time when more power would be available.
Nine Ball
Enthusiast
As a current Paxton '06 owner, I'd not buy the setup again. I'd have just spent a little more and built the engine with twin turbos. The Paxton kit is very reliable, but it sure runs slow for the dyno numbers it puts down.
GTS-R 001
Enthusiast
To get a paxton car to go fast you have to run her right up to redline every shift
Nine Ball
Enthusiast
GTS-R 001
Enthusiast
Worked for me 
How a Paxton car performs depends to some extent on gearing and driving technique. ( Of c urse there are other factors but they are not the subject of this discussion.) The Paxton's power starts to come in at approximately 3300 RPM and keeps surging. So a 3.55 diff is going to feel pretty different from a stock diff. However, if you have a strong enough diff, clutch and half shafts, even with the stock diff ratio, you can launch at an RPM level which produces a satisfactory result. I think a Paxton car with the DC blower tune driven by a highly skilled drag racer is capable of a 10.6 quarter. Have I done this? No. But there must be a member or two who have.
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Ghoust
Viper Owner
I agree with the comment that it feels slow for car that puts out such big numbers. It really is the gearing. I had a mustang previously putting out 512rwhp and I had 4.10 gears in there. My car with the stock gears feels so sluggish compared to my mustang and thats with the Viper up in power by at least 150hp.
FastestBusaAround
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Thanks for the replies -- I may consider moving up to a 355 rear end before contemplating further mods. I know it's very tall gearing and quite sluggish at low RPM's when I compare to my Z06. I guess what I'm looking for more than power, is better response, which I know I'll get with shorter rear end ratios.
Ditto....or just buy an 06 and start from there. 08's aren't going to make big power without spending big money.
Nine Ball
Enthusiast
Since you have a Z06, you may find this interesting.
My Viper - 06 coupe with Paxton and mufflers. Stock pulley, 675 rwhp.
My Z06 - 09 with a Magnacharger TVS2300. Stock pulley, 566 rwhp
From a 60-140 roll, the Z06 puts about 3 car lengths on the Viper, every time. Even when we switch drivers. Z06 weighs 3215 lbs with the blower, makes full boost at 2K rpm, and sings all the way out to 7K rpm. Each time you have to shift the Viper at a lowly 6K rpm, the Z06 puts a car length on it.
Not the outcome I expected, but that is what happens with this pair. I'd rather have a roots/PD blower, or turbos for the Viper.
Tony
Better response? Change out the full exhaust right from headers on back, add a lightweight flywheel and change to a Quafe with 3.55 gears. Those mods right there really wake the beast up. After a couple of years though, you will want more power, but it will hold you through a couple of years with a smile on your face.
I performed these exact same mods on my 06 and after 4 years it still feels very strong but I am ready to go up to a Supercharged set-up, probably Paxton since no one had the balls to put out a screw or roots blower set-up for the 03'-06' V-10s. Anyone who feels that a bolt on Paxton kit and a built Twin Turbo kit with new insides are the same price is smoking crack. TT kits done RIGHT are very expensive. Depends on whether you want a reverseable kit or non-reverseable. Going TT and you are in non-reverseable territory. Pure bolt on is the way to go but that is my opinion only and not shared by some others.
I performed these exact same mods on my 06 and after 4 years it still feels very strong but I am ready to go up to a Supercharged set-up, probably Paxton since no one had the balls to put out a screw or roots blower set-up for the 03'-06' V-10s. Anyone who feels that a bolt on Paxton kit and a built Twin Turbo kit with new insides are the same price is smoking crack. TT kits done RIGHT are very expensive. Depends on whether you want a reverseable kit or non-reverseable. Going TT and you are in non-reverseable territory. Pure bolt on is the way to go but that is my opinion only and not shared by some others.
Nine Ball
Enthusiast
All Z06's are manual transmission. When I've run these two against each other, the Z06 jumps out a full car length right off the start, due to it being in full boost already. Then the Viper creeps up on the Z06 until it has to shift at 6K rpm. The Z06 pulls very hard all the way to 7K rpm, and puts a car length on the Viper. Then they stay about even, until the next shift. Another car length. I sure wish the Viper could go 7K rpm, it would be a different outcome.
I have 355s and I can hit it anywere in the rpm range and it response well (Iam also making more then stock paxton #s). I was debating about going back to stock 307s so I had more gear to toy around with (currently in 5th gear at 5800 rpms, im doing 155-160), would like to hit closer to the 190-200 mark in 5th.
Anyway, gears made the car more responsive throughout the rpm range compared to my previous vipers with stock gearing.
Anyway, gears made the car more responsive throughout the rpm range compared to my previous vipers with stock gearing.
Could make all the difference right there but I think its only for standard vets. Good call Plum.
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Nine. Can you post your dynosheet? I ask because I want to compare your power distribution under the curve with mine. Also, as long as you are posting the Viper dyno results can you also post the Vette results so that we can compare the two. My guess is that the power between 2000 and 4500 is materially higher on the Vette than on the Viper.
One more question. I assume that you are not shifting the Viper out of fourth on the 60 to 140 runs but what gear are you in when you hit it at 60 MPH? I ask because you should have plenty of boost when you hit it at 60. Warning! Hitting it at 60 at 4200 RPM or so can get a little squirrely if the tires are not properly warmed up and there is any debris or wetness of any kind on the road. Snake bites can and do happen without much warning under these conditions. The Vette's nannytech would prevent same.
One more question. I assume that you are not shifting the Viper out of fourth on the 60 to 140 runs but what gear are you in when you hit it at 60 MPH? I ask because you should have plenty of boost when you hit it at 60. Warning! Hitting it at 60 at 4200 RPM or so can get a little squirrely if the tires are not properly warmed up and there is any debris or wetness of any kind on the road. Snake bites can and do happen without much warning under these conditions. The Vette's nannytech would prevent same.
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Nine Ball
Enthusiast
Bob, thanks for the warning. I've owned/raced several 10-second cars, even a 9-second car. I can assure you I have plenty of seat time behind the wheel of cars at this power level. 1,000 hp cars however, not so much 
Both cars tried starting at 2nd, as well as 3rd. Never going into 5th. Shifting both just before rev limiter steps in.
Corvette Dyno:
Viper Dyno (pre dyno tuning) don't have the current one scanned
Both cars tried starting at 2nd, as well as 3rd. Never going into 5th. Shifting both just before rev limiter steps in.
Corvette Dyno:
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Viper Dyno (pre dyno tuning) don't have the current one scanned
You must be registered for see images attach
Nine. Thanks for posting so fast. Our power distributions under the curve from 3500 up are a bit different. Mine is 20 to 30 stronger. But what is striking to me is that based on the graphs the Viper is clearly stronger from about 3750 RPMs up so it has to be a difference in the gearing between the two cars. Otherwise, above 3750, the Viper should pull away with ease. The problem I experienced with my car in the standing mile events was when I shifted out of 4th at 165 the revs dropped 1200 RPM and took me out of quite a bit of boost. I had the 5th and 6th gears changed out to reduce the drop by 500 RPM and that basically cured the problem.
So I would guess you may be getting a similar effect even though you are not shifting to fifth. I would also guess that a 3.33 or 3.55 diff ratio might cure the problem.
By the way, the warning was not really for you. I am always concerned that someone less experienced will read our threads and go out and try some of what we discuss. The warning was for those readers.
So I would guess you may be getting a similar effect even though you are not shifting to fifth. I would also guess that a 3.33 or 3.55 diff ratio might cure the problem.
By the way, the warning was not really for you. I am always concerned that someone less experienced will read our threads and go out and try some of what we discuss. The warning was for those readers.
For those interested, our non supercharged package for the Gen 4 cars puts them very close to 700hp. Its reliable for street and track really wakes up the car.
GTS-R 001
Enthusiast
The main problem with getting a viper to be quick is the fact that he viper engine revs so much lower than everyone else, they keep going when we have to shift, lower gears and viola, we have to shift even more. If someone could get a viper engine to rev to 7K - problem solved, but with most of us shifting at 5400 = big difference
TrackAire
Enthusiast
Or if my understanding is correctly, one of those Euro dual clutch 7 speed transmissions might just make the Viper near unbeatable. Micro second shifts, never lift and very little rpm drop. Engines rpm wouldn't be an issue if the trans and rear end are geared for the sweet spot of the motor.
Happy New Year!!
George
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