T&D - before and after dyno results

[Jack B]

The following dyno results are for a 97 with Balenger's and cones, otherwise a stock engine. The peak horse power differences were 22, however there were some areas under the curve that had 24 hp differences.

The later pulls on the bottle netted 640 hp and almost 800 ftlbs of torque.

 

[WESTCOAST JASON]

SWEET! Not a bad bang for the buck at all! I am curious if the T&D's would help force fed motors with the same percentage gain?

 

[J DAWG]

Thanks Jack. I am in the process of installing mine and am glad to see the gains are for real. Now I just hope I get down the track a little faster.

 

[Bugeater]

I gained 2HP and lost a little TQ.

This is on a 2000 w/Borla Headers, catback. Maybe T&D's are more appreciative of the hotter cam in your cars.

 

[Anthony - 98 GTS]

Great post and results - congrats.

 

[pauls]

Jack will be representing the NOS boys well at the Viper Nationals!!! Anybody else with some juice going to challenge the Blower boys in the MOD 2 Shootout???
Complete rules for the Fast 8 Mod 2 shootout are on the VCA calender page under Viper Nationals Sept 12-13.

 

[Jack B]

Bugeater:

I would look at the adjusters being cranked down too far, thus, not allowing the valves to be closed long enough. It wouldn't take but a couple of bad adjustments to throw off your hp. Take a look at depth of all the adjuster screws relative to the top of the jam nut and see if you can find any that are down to far as compared to the others - good luck.

 

[Bugeater]

Assuming some of the adjusters are off, can you explain how and what to look for - ie: what is "cranked down too far relative to the top of the jam nut?"

I didnt install them myself, but I could adjust them if I knew what to set adjustments at. Visual or a specific torque spec.

Anyone have pics? That would help as well!

 

[Jack B]

Bugeater:

The picture below shows the internal hex adjuster screw (red) and the outside 12 point locknut (green). The adjuster screw will be level with or slightly below the plane of the locknut. This depth will vary between engines, however, the recess (depth) of the adjuster screw below the top of the locknut should be consistent for all rockers.

This picture is prior to adjustment. After adjustment the adjusters on my installation were about 1/32 to 1/16 below the locknut. If you take a look to the left you will see blue dye on the valve tip and an area (almost centered) where it is worn off. This is where rocker-to-valve geometry is checked. This is why the kit comes with different shims and also the reason that push rods cannot be accurately selected till after the shims/alignment procedure is completed. Also the shim gauge furnished with the kit is only to be used the heads off the engine.

 

[99 R/T 10]

If anybody is interested in a new set of Mopar RR(T&D's), I have a set in the box(new). Willing to let them go for $825 Shipped.

 

[Bugeater]

Jack B,
I JUST saw this. Thanks a MILLION. This pic speaks a thousand words.

Great explanation.