THERMOSTAT 180 DEGREE

JonB

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I probably should never second-guess a potential customer, but as a fellow owner I have a question.

I could gladly get you a T-stat, but why? Especially since the '01 car is not even on the road yet. The OEM T-stat temp was chosen very carefully, and there are NO overheat complaints since the 98.2 fan upgrade? Why risk your warranty the day you get it?

How about intake hoses / filters instead?
 

GTS Bruce

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A t-stat change would never be a waranty issue.Possibly an emissions issue.Car should make more HP.Not set any codes.Not be as suseptible to inferior gas.Longer engine life etc.However gas mileage and emissions might suffer slightly.Other than that its not a simple change.Have to pull the intake manifold.I would definately do it if the engine needed to be taken down, but not as elective surgery. Bruce
 

Hisser

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I changed mine to a 180 and I have had no problems. I can tell you it only takes about 1 to 1.5 hrs to do. Yes, the intake has to come off, linkage clips, and a couple other clips by the throttle bodies. You will have to unclip the harnesses to the fuel injection system in the back of the head by the drivers side. The hardest part is holding the intake close to the engine while you clip all the harnesses back to the bottom of the intake. If you are a do it yourselfer, its not a hard thing to do. When you pull the intake you have to move it forward to get the gas line disconnected and it will shoot gas due to the pressure but not much. Before you restart the engine, turn the key on for a few seconds, then cut it off, then back on for a few more seconds so that gas is fully pumped up to through the line to the injectors. When you go to put the intake back on you have to have someone hold it while you place the intake gaskets on and connect the connectors to the bottom of the intake, then set the intake in place and retorque the bolts, which are very easy to get to. The job is really pretty easy. Actually easier than the gen 1 which you cant even see in the rear of the motor. You must make sure you burp all the water out, or plan on a overheated engine. I did my 98 rt about 6 months ago with no problems, and damm glad I did it. The thermostat can be bought from NAPA and stant is the maker. Its a 190 that has been modified by stant. E-mail me if you have any questions.
 
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Mamba man steve

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Wayne thank you for the cook book on how to do can you give me the PART #??? To GTS Bruce I agree on no warrantee, and it should make more HP. That will be logged for posterity. JonB I won't hold it against you , you are one of the most knowledgeable people on Viper I have seen on the Net, But "a bird in the hand is worth two in the bush" I have already purchased Half shafts, smooth tubes/filters, NOS Propane, flywheel, clutch linkage, and a bit more. Come 1,000 miles and I am going to play.
 

Marv S

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The Stanton T-stats for the Viper I have seen were NOT a modified OEM T-Stat. Unless that has changed I would not have one. They were lightweight, flexible units that were prone to getting stuck slightly sideways in the closed position within a few months of install. Result: Instant overheat and another R & R.

The tuners used to sell the Stanton but have found other suppliers now. Check with Dan Cragin and/or HMS for their experiences on brands and for installation tips like using a bit of Water pump grease aka(lithium grease, drilling 2 small holes in the shell to keep air an pocket from building up. They'll even drill the holes before sending it to you.

To change it in the Gen 2 isn't all that bad. You do not have to completely unbolt everything from the IM and actually remove it from the car. remove only what is necessary that will allow you to lift the im up about 8" or so and put some soda cans or something else under it to hold it up while you change the t-stat.

The result of a lower t-stat in these cars is bigger temp swings, a noticibly lower temp when driving on the highway but it will still get up to the same temp (220+) you would see with the stock t-stat when on the track and also when you're in stop and go traffic.
 

Charlie

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IMHO, because of the huge temp swings I would avoid it unless you reprogrammed the ECU to turn the fan on at a lower temp (195 or so).

MY .02
 

JonB

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Now I understand, Steve ! It was such an unusual question "My cars's still at CAAP....need low-temp gasket!" Sorry to 2nd guess you !

ps....you can bleed most of the fuel/air pressure from the IM Shrader valve before cracking the gasket and fuel line, and you wont "shoot gas" as described..or at least less. {I hate when that happens... puts out onlooker cigarettes!} And the ECU Fan-flash is a good idea as well. Dan Cragin can mod the ECU and the T-stat.

JonB
 

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