You must re-read your own posts carefully. You brought up the physics point as well as the mid-engine car, etc. You also stated the car had all of its mass in the front. Once you come to grips with that not being the case, some if your assumptions will change.
You brought up the physics elements in your initial responses and I attempted to explain why 50/50 weight distribution does not clearly portray what kind of handling characteristics to expect from a car. It's like saying "both cars have 4 wheels so they should both handle well compared to a motorcycle, which only has 2".
A FRONT ENGINE vehicle will have most of its mass in the front just like a mid-engine car will have most of its mass in the back in relation to its turning axis, and it is the proximity of mass in relation to this axis that determines how well the car is going to change direction.
Have you ever seen an F1 race car go around a turn? It almost seems to defy physics as to how fast it can be moving and yet still make relatively sharp turns. It's no surprise that the weight bias of an F1 car is toward the rear...if 50/50 were ideal, wouldn't F1 race cars seek out 50/50 weight distributions, considering how much money and reputation is on the line?
The reason a mid-engine car is tail-happy around turns is that it's a victim of its own success - i.e. it is so easy to turn that unless the driver has a feel for it, it is easy to swing the rear out.
I'll repeat, the only reason I mentioned these things is to explain that weight distribution over the axles does not dictate handling, and tire pressures can be adjusted to enhance traction based on the type of driving being done. Tire pressure DOES NOT alter the balance of the car and I never suggested that it did.
Weight distribution is a factor. spring rates are factors, tire sizes/type, etc are factors. alignment is a factor. Aero is a factor. How much you weigh and where your weight is factors. many things, but you were only discussing tire pressures given everything else is the same.
The other 'factors' are not part of this topic, this is exclusively tire pressures on a stock Gen 5 that has not had any modifications done to the suspension, engine, or had any weight reduction.
What I led with is the car is a very balanced car by design based upon the above factors (it is not nose heavy), thus why you must factor in weight distribution. I also told you how the tire pressure changes will impact the car given all the other items listed are remain the same. Basic principle to follow, increasing pressures reduces grip/friction, lowering pressures increases grip/friction. Do tires have an optimal temp for highest grip? Yes. Will you get to that temp on the street? No
I'm quite aware of the relationship between the traction provided by the tires based on their temperature, as well as the fact that increasing their temperature increases their internal pressure...but your blanket statement is not entirely accurate.
There is a pressure range that is "ideal" for a particular tire, and if you are above or below this range, you will not have full grip. On the street, you will not be reaching high speeds regularly. Increasing front tire pressure (over rear tire pressure) will INCREASE oversteer at low speeds, have neutral characteristics at highway speeds and understeer fast speeds that you should not be reaching on any public road.
I have only tested 32 front 26 rear on the street, and I would not run this on the track because I would prefer to have less understeer at track speeds, but on the street I suggest trying this out and seeing what you think. The car feels "better".
But again, on the street, these settings don't matter unless you want to do the following:
1) smoother ride - lower the pressures
2) better straight excel - lower the rears
Or if you want a "sportier" ride, follow my suggestion.
But again, I still don't understand the problem you were trying to solve. You stated performance, so #2 above can apply. anything else, you not talking performance, you just talking a feel factor. Feel and performance are not always related
Was not trying to 'solve a problem', was trying to start a constructive discussion about tire pressures. Vehicle handling is dynamic, that means it's subject to change, so the "right" answer lies within a range and is not one specific number.
So, the reason I bristle a bit at your post is the overall premise is off when someone says performance for the street when the car is already in its stock form over qualified for the street. Take the car to the track, do these adjustments in real-time through the day and truly learn the impacts. Just note how in 25 min session, the characteristics change. You will learn a ton from the seat of your pants in an environment that does not lie. Then go driving on the street and understand street driving is the equivalent to a cool-down lap on the track.
By your logic, nobody should be talking about tweaking or modding the car from stock simply because it is "qualified" for the street. You're coming at this from the wrong angle entirely and are mixing track and street configurations as if they are both interchangeable. They are two different things that would require their own setups. Stock settings are generally conservative and "general purpose". That may 'qualify' the car but that doesn't preclude anyone from changing.
And if you want along with the intent of the original post, we could have had people post what pressures they run on the street and track to see if 29 all around really is the best, or if a trend emerges. Not going to happen if I have to keep debating off-topic points with you, is it?
