Transmission fluid

SidewinderGTS

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How to drain and fill trans,whats the best fluid.
Is the rear end hard to do,same questions.
Thanks
 

Chuck 98 RT/10

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Drain plug in the rear of the tranny, fill plug in the front (driver's side).

Diff is a drag. No drain plug so you have to siphon the fluid out from the fill plug (passenger side). Very messy.

Be sure to use tranny fluid for the tranny and diff fluid (much heavier) for the diff. Diff also requires friction modifier.
 

Bo knows

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There is an excellant article in the " How To " section on installing a drain plug in the rear end. I performed it on mine with no problems. As Chuck said, siphoning is messy & you can't get all the fluid out.

Bo knows
 

Mark Hahn

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The reply I recieved from Redline Oil was to use their D4 ATF or 1/2 MTL and 1/2 MTL90 in the tranny and use their 75w140 in the Diff. I have about 500 miles on their new Lightweight Shockproof gear oil in the Diff but just ordered their 75W140 due to their recommendation and the fact that their shockproof does meet GL5 specs but their 75w140 exceeds GL5 by a fair margin. I also use their Power steering fluid as well as motor oil and water wetter in the coolant. MGH
 

cgmaster

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I am also changing my fluids and was wondering about oils other than Mopar. I was told some people had problems with Redline oil in their Transmissions but that redline was good for everything else. My question is what is everyone using on the track and has anyone run into any problems with transmission lubricant failing?

Thanks
 

Ron

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If you have an air compressor, a Vacula fluid evacuator is a wonderful product. Easy drain of diff and power steering tank, plus does a great job bleeding clutch and brakes. Worth every penny.

Mopar fluids are fine. I see no reason to risk incompatibility with syncros and posi clutches with other brands.

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opnwide

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I put redline D4 in my trans, and after ViperDays drained it again. My trans started making all kinds of noises. The techs from Archer say it was the Redline. I put Penzoil back in, but the jury is still out on that one.
 

Nadine UK GTS

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I should be factory filling with DextronIII in my 97 trans...but my trans got killed out on the track, I don't think the mineral oil Dextron, can compete with the synthetic oil under demand and hot circumstances. I now fill with synthetic Motul 300, shifts a little harder when cold, but when hot keeps feeling so good (which is when it really counts).

Diff, I run factory fill Mopar (with the additive) and no probs.
 

Ron

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Vacula 15-0150 - Evacuator Fluid

MultiVac
15-0150
Media
Non-explosive liquids. Not to be used with brake fluid.
Working pressure
80 to 175 PSI (5.5 to 12 bar)
Max. air consumption
4.6 CFM @ 87 PSI (130 l/min @ 6 bar)
Air connection
1/4” NPT
Temperature range
-4ºF to +104º F (-20º C to +40º C)
Canister volume
2.6 qts (2.5 l)
Seal material
Nitrile
Canister material
PA-6
Noise level
Below 80 db(A)
Suction hose length
6.5 ft (2 m)


This is the unit I have. They say that you can use it for all fluids "except" brake fluid. The included hose fits quite nicely over the standard brake and clutch bleeder ******. You'll see air bubbles all the time, as air gets pulled areound the bleeder threads, but no worries as the old dirty fluid is coming with it. That same hose also fits perfectly down the auto trans dipstick hole, so you can pre-drain the pan or just exchange the fluid from above.

****************************************

This one for brake fluid:

Vacula 180051 - Vacuum Brake Bleeder

DrainMan
18-9989
Media
Brake fluid
Working pressure
80 to 175 PSI (5.5 to 12 bar)
Max. air consumption
4.6 CFM at 87 PSI
Air connection 1/4"
1/4" NPT
Temperature range
-4ºF to +104ºF
Canister volume
2.6 qts
Seal material
EPDM
Canister material
PA-6
Noise level Below
Below 80 db(A)
Bleeding hose
10 ft (3 m)

*****************************************

The only difference is the material that the body o-ring is made of and I can tell you that after years of use, the brake fluid has had no impact on the ring of the 15-0150. Given that you'll use it for all types of fluids, I find the 15-0150 more versatile and certainly cheaper than buying both. You can alway order the other ring as a spare if you want to....

S&J's Vacula Page

Never purchased from these guy's but they seem to have the best price online....

S&J's Discount Tools
2892 Prairie Dr.
Lewis Center, OH 43035
1-877-355-7455

Vacula's web site
 

FlyBryViper

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Engine = Motul 300
Tranny = Motul Gear 300
Diff. = Motul Gear FF Competition
Motul conducted oil analysis from several Vipers this year during the Michelin Challenge Series. The results were phenominal! I only use their double ester synthetics because I simply want the very best that money can buy.
Redline synthetic power steering fluid. After a season of Viper Days, it looks and smell brand new, but I am changing it anyway.
 

Mark Hahn

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slaughterj, I see you have Mobil 1 10W30 for engine oil. If you check the Mobil 1 website and look at the Tech specs. The newer Mobil 1 0W40 has a higher High Temp High Shear(HTHS) rating than the 10W30. This is a newer European rating for high output engines which provides greater protection. In fact, the 10W30 does not meet the minimum protection for Audi, Mercedes, BMW, and Porsche engines. Some U.S. oil companies don't do this test on their oils yet but many do and all will soon enough. You want a minimum of 3.5 HTHS and only a Sythetic will make it. I had been a Mobil 1 user for years and bad mouthed Amsoil but was surprised that Amsoil oils rate better than all Mobil 1 oils. And even better was Redline which were rated the highest. For those Motul fans, I personally believe Motul is a Premium oil but their website doesn't list their Tech specs. MGH
 

Ron

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Moly is in most Mobil 1 formulations.

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