snampro
Enthusiast
A few months ago there were some questions about how to get the VIPER off the ground to perform maintenance. In this post:
http://forums.viperclub.org/showthread.php?t=594092&highlight=ramps
I posted several pictures of the ramp I built, initially for my C5 Corvette, and now for my '94 RT/10. Here's a couple pics of the old ones for people to lazy to click the link:
As you can see the top of the ramp is fairly short. In actuallity, this last step was an afterthought when I realized the car wasn't as high as I wanted it to be. The problem with it being short is there's no where to block the car from rolling backwards.
Here's where it gets interesting. I bought some 6 Ton jack stands a few weeks ago because I'm just not thrilled with my 2-Ton stands. The problem is I have to jack the car up higher to get the 6-Ton stands under the car. Well, last week I lifted the car enough that the car rolled off the ramps while I was jacking it. The car stayed on the jacks as I guided them, but it scared the hell out of me.
So, I decided to improve the ramps this weekend with the following goals: same height, larger top pad, no increase in weight.
First is the original ramp ready for modification:
Removed the original top level and stop, the remaining piece is the new top of the ramp:
The original rubber pads that are stuck and nailed to the original bottom board have to be removed since it will no longer be the bottom:
This is the 41.5" board, used to be the second from the bottom, with a lightening hole cut:
This is the 55" board, used to be the bottom, with two lightening holes cut:
I cut two new boards, each 2 x 10 x 70" and cut lightening holes. This is the new 70" board laying next to the 55" board:
The new top board (the 27" long one) gets the old stop screwed to the end and a small 1 x 2 across the front about 4" from the 45 degree cut. Testing on the car wheels shows these need to be a minimum of 13" appart, this mounting results in more than 15", more than enough to slide a larger block in to prevent the car from moving back (if required):
Screw everything back together and you get this:
I can't stress this enough, the key to making these ramps not slide is the rubber pads on the bottom:
Results: The new and longer ramps weight no more than the old ones. They actually feel lighter. When I run the car on the ramps I'll get some pics and comment on the functionality.
Enjoy!
http://forums.viperclub.org/showthread.php?t=594092&highlight=ramps
I posted several pictures of the ramp I built, initially for my C5 Corvette, and now for my '94 RT/10. Here's a couple pics of the old ones for people to lazy to click the link:
As you can see the top of the ramp is fairly short. In actuallity, this last step was an afterthought when I realized the car wasn't as high as I wanted it to be. The problem with it being short is there's no where to block the car from rolling backwards.
Here's where it gets interesting. I bought some 6 Ton jack stands a few weeks ago because I'm just not thrilled with my 2-Ton stands. The problem is I have to jack the car up higher to get the 6-Ton stands under the car. Well, last week I lifted the car enough that the car rolled off the ramps while I was jacking it. The car stayed on the jacks as I guided them, but it scared the hell out of me.
So, I decided to improve the ramps this weekend with the following goals: same height, larger top pad, no increase in weight.
First is the original ramp ready for modification:
Removed the original top level and stop, the remaining piece is the new top of the ramp:
The original rubber pads that are stuck and nailed to the original bottom board have to be removed since it will no longer be the bottom:
This is the 41.5" board, used to be the second from the bottom, with a lightening hole cut:
This is the 55" board, used to be the bottom, with two lightening holes cut:
I cut two new boards, each 2 x 10 x 70" and cut lightening holes. This is the new 70" board laying next to the 55" board:
The new top board (the 27" long one) gets the old stop screwed to the end and a small 1 x 2 across the front about 4" from the 45 degree cut. Testing on the car wheels shows these need to be a minimum of 13" appart, this mounting results in more than 15", more than enough to slide a larger block in to prevent the car from moving back (if required):
Screw everything back together and you get this:
I can't stress this enough, the key to making these ramps not slide is the rubber pads on the bottom:
Results: The new and longer ramps weight no more than the old ones. They actually feel lighter. When I run the car on the ramps I'll get some pics and comment on the functionality.
Enjoy!