Upgrade to Aftermarket Rotors...

[ViperCobra]

Hey Guys,

I will be upgrading to the aftermarket rotors with drilled and slots on it for my 2006 Viper, any suggestions before the install? I heard about taken off a clip for it to be installed properly? not sure... . Can anyone give me some inputs/suggestions before the installation tomorrow? Much appreciated

 

[Viperless]

New pads? Fresh brake fluid?

Don't know anything about a "clip". Remove the two allen head caliper bolts. Put a rag on the upper a-arm and lay the caliper on the a-arm. Take the old rotor off, put the new one on. Replace the caliper and torque the bolts to 80 ft/lbs. Lather, rinse, repeat.

 

[Mopar Steve]

They are directional.

 

[Allan]

New pads? Fresh brake fluid?

Don't know anything about a "clip". Remove the two allen head caliper bolts. Put a rag on the upper a-arm and lay the caliper on the a-arm. Take the old rotor off, put the new one on. Replace the caliper and torque the bolts to 80 ft/lbs. Lather, rinse, repeat.

If I'm not mistaken, I think the caliper bolt torque is only 55ft.lbs.

 

[TowDawg]

You didn't mention the brand rotors, but there are a lot of CHEAP drilled and slotted rotors out there that there is NO WAY I would put on my car, unless it was just used for cruising. If you are doing any performance driving (especially track driving), I would stick with the big name comapanies. They are not cheap by any means, but cheap brake rotors getting to hot and cracking, warping, coming apart, etc, is not something I want to happen coming into 10A at RA. They may be good bling for the street though if you don't drive the car hard.

Some may disagree me, but I wouldn't even want the high end rotors drilled and slotted due to possible stress cracks around the drilled holes. Slotted or slotted and dimpled are fine, but drilled can cuase issues.

I know you didn't ask for advice on the rotors themselves, but I would hate for you to find out the hard way.

As for changing the rotors out, it's a snap (at least on my Gen III). The rotors are floating, so once you remove the caliper bolts and the calipers, they come right off. You "might" need a slight tap around the edges with a rubber mallet to break them free. I also agree with Viperless that you should go ahead and flush the old fluid while you're at it. I certainly assume you are changing the pads already.

 

[mjorgensen Woodhouse]

The retaining clip that you have heard about is only when using the two piece rotors that are available, it can drag on the hat bolts of a two piece rotor.

 

[ViperCobra]

Thank you Guys, appreciate the replies and suggestions . The brand rotors is Stoptech, they are drilled and slotted and are only 1 piece. I don't track and I only drive my car on weekends and will see only a few miles per month. Just for cruising and joy ride. So just want to confirm that the retainer clip is only for the 2 piece rotor that we will take off before installation correct? Also, My car has about 17,100 miles already, it is necessary to change the brake fluid and the pads? How many miles on the car should we check before changing the brake fluids and the pads?

 

[mjorgensen Woodhouse]

You will NOT have to worry about a retainer clip on the outside pad up front so ignore that altogether. You should check the brake fluid at each oil change for darkness and any sediment in the reservoir, change as often as needed, but if it is dark chances are good it has been hot or has drawn water into the fluid over time so stay on top of it. If it has never been done then YES do the flush and bleed now.

Thank you Guys, appreciate the replies and suggestions . The brand rotors is Stoptech, they are drilled and slotted and are only 1 piece. I don't track and I only drive my car on weekends and will see only a few miles per month. Just for cruising and joy ride. So just want to confirm that the retainer clip is only for the 2 piece rotor that we will take off before installation correct? Also, My car has about 17,100 miles already, it is necessary to change the brake fluid and the pads? How many miles on the car should we check before changing the brake fluids and the pads?

 

[ViperCobra]

You will NOT have to worry about a retainer clip on the outside pad up front so ignore that altogether. You should check the brake fluid at each oil change for darkness and any sediment in the reservoir, change as often as needed, but if it is dark chances are good it has been hot or has drawn water into the fluid over time so stay on top of it. If it has never been done then YES do the flush and bleed now.

. Thank you Mark

 

[Viperless]

If I'm not mistaken, I think the caliper bolt torque is only 55ft.lbs.

Might actually be 85 but that's getting into dangerious territory in my opinion. The bolts should be longer for more thread engagement in the aluminum knuckle. I pulled the threads out of one of mine so I installed studs in all of them like the ACR-X's have.