- Joined
- May 1, 2004
- Posts
- 3,471
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Title says it all.
I use royal purple's purple ice it works alot better.
I have yet to try it in my viper but it sure works in the stang.
Don't you mean freakin supercharged space ship?In 30 years when that actually corrodes my block, I'll be cruising around in a freakin space ship.
Won't touch it. Corrosion/erosion is much different than you may expect. It attacks the hottest areas first. That is the combustion chambers and upper bore regions. On a dyno you can create accelerated erosion/corrosion quite quickly that results in water cooled combustion. Not good.
I use soap in my bath, not in my engine. That is stated as the principle property is similar to soap. Breaks up surface tension and allows a lower thickness laminar and coated layer on the metal surfaces. With silicate additive coolants (i.e. the green stuff) this essentially removes the protective layer that prevents surface erosion due to nucleate boiling. That may work on a race car that never sees temperatures high enough to see nucleate boiling. But on a production car it is a recipe for disaster. Not sure how it affects organic chemistry additive coolants but I am not wiling to be the guinea pig when temperature is not a problem to start with.
Won't touch it. Corrosion/erosion is much different than you may expect. It attacks the hottest areas first. That is the combustion chambers and upper bore regions. On a dyno you can create accelerated erosion/corrosion quite quickly that results in water cooled combustion. Not good.
I use soap in my bath, not in my engine. That is stated as the principle property is similar to soap. Breaks up surface tension and allows a lower thickness laminar and coated layer on the metal surfaces. With silicate additive coolants (i.e. the green stuff) this essentially removes the protective layer that prevents surface erosion due to nucleate boiling. That may work on a race car that never sees temperatures high enough to see nucleate boiling. But on a production car it is a recipe for disaster. Not sure how it affects organic chemistry additive coolants but I am not wiling to be the guinea pig when temperature is not a problem to start with.
-its all greek to me
been using redlines water wetter in all my cars, trucks, motorcycles, quads, etc for 10 years now and it works very well. the biggest drop i have seen using it is in my old road race car where it made a 20 degree difference with just distelled water only and no coolant mixed in. most applications are good for about 10 degrees. it gets real hot in arizona so you need all the help you can get around here. as far as corrosion protection goes; coolant is the best but distilled water and water wetter is better than just distilled water by itself. i run 50% coolant / 50% distilled water and water wetter. i even have watter wetter in my nordic boat which has a closed cooling system and heat exchanger.