Ways to reduce Gen 1 Cabin Heat?

[V10SpeedLuvr]

Is there a way to reduce the amount of engine heat gets into the cabin of a Gen 1.5? When I went to FL both me and my friend wore sandals 99% of the time. We both ended up with "burn" marks on our feet from the heat coming from the engine into the cabin? OUCH!

 

[Sam 01 RT10]

I reduced a good bit of cabin heat in my '01 by installing high-flow cats. Later, I removed them totally, but there was a drastic reduction in heat just going with the high flows. Some Gen I/II guys have drilled the non-functional "speaker" hole out, to make it a real vent for underhood heat. Autoform makes a vented cowl to let the hot air out as well.
You can also install some heat barrier under the carpets.

 

[Mark Hahn]

When I installed Headers and a Borla exhaust on my car I removed the Cats and replaced them with a Stainless straight pipe that even though it was only about 17" long I had them ceramic coated to reduce the radiant heat and it has made a noticeable difference. The sills still get warm but not burning hot. I don't have problems with the footwells in my car just the side sills? Is this what your talking about? Thanks, MGH

 

[V10SpeedLuvr]

"I don't have problems with the footwells in my car just the side sills? Is this what your talking about? "

Nope, I mean the footwells. The heat was POURING out from under them directly onto our feet

 

[Mark Hahn]

I would check your HVAC controls as mine is a '96 RT/10 and I don't have that problem. The controls are kind of weird. If I have it in off or vent(first click to the left) or in A/C it is fine but if I have it in heat (first click to the right of off) it will blow some warm air even with the temp selector all the way down, not hot but fairly warm on a hot day. Like I said, vent is fine as well as the A/C position. MGH

 

[KWIK96]

Chad,
I have also noticed what Mark said.

Concerning underhood venting, I was at a tech day at WCV and noticed, on a track car, vents in the wheel wells in front of the CAT area, roughly in line with the aluminium deflector plate. They were about 6 inches diameter, and covered in grille protector type mesh. Obviously designed to drag heat away. Maybe someone here has also seen this or has pictures? Seemed like a good idea when I saw it, but I have not got around to doing it myself. You could probably do it on a street car and because of the location, it would not be seen.
I run Random techs on my 96 and it does help, but does not cure the problem.

cheers.

 

[Qualitywires.com]

ahhh! the days of owning a Gen I car! Just learn to love it! LOL! I would go with high flow cats and may want to consider wrapping your exhaust pipes...NOT the cats.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Just for the record regarding dash controls:

Any position to the right (heat, blend, defrost) passes air through the heater core, any position to the left (vent, AC) does not. Therefore, you cannot use the temperature knob to adjust vent or AC. However, in the upright (off) position the natural air flow will allow air into the cabin through the heater core, so helps to reduce the interior temperature to set the temperature knob to "cold" (ha-ha) when the fan is off.

This was from looking into how to control the temperature of the AC setting. It can be done, and this is the wrong post to ask, but wondering how many people have an AC that runs so cold they want to warm it up a tad?

I cut a hole in the hood to match the right side. Nadine has a post from years ago about it. It definitely helps cool the engine after shutdown, and the driver can see the heat waves rising when at idle, especially when the fan reaches high speed and blows it out. After all the wet rugs from learning where the leaks are, I do not have all the insulation anymore and don't think the floor gets exceedingly hot.

 

[V10SpeedLuvr]

Sent you a pm Tom

 

[GotAViper]

How do you guys remove the cats and pass your emission tests?

 

[Jerry Scott[CO]]

Have the stock cats coated with 2000 deg. Jet Hot. This made a big difference for me.
Jerry

 

[ViperJames]

Chad...I had the same exact problem as you with my 95. With the advice of Chuck Tator, I had installed the Roe High Flow cats and the Roe Exhaust. I can honestly say the engine-foot area cabin heat decreased by atleast 70%. I am totally satisfied with the results and the little heat that is left is VERY minimal. the side sill wraps are a waste of money if you do the 2 things i mentioned. Good luck.

 

[Daniel Cragin/DC Performance Inc]

We sell some nice stainless side sill vents that really reduce the heat. www.dcperformanceinc.com under thermal products.

 

[Newport Viper]

Chad...I had the same exact problem as you with my 95. With the advice of Chuck Tator, I had installed the Roe High Flow cats and the Roe Exhaust. I can honestly say the engine-foot area cabin heat decreased by atleast 70%. I am totally satisfied with the results and the little heat that is left is VERY minimal. the side sill wraps are a waste of money if you do the 2 things i mentioned. Good luck.

Had the same set up and same results here.

 

[Magicboy2]

I'm sure this has been covered before, but I'll ask again- to the guys who went with the Roe high-flows and exhaust, how much louder is it?

 

[WOT!]

Alright, I think I can help here. I too have a Gen 1.5. Wife complained about the heat. Now she loves it. This is the cheapest and easiest way to fix it.

1. Do as mentioned above with the AC controls. I noticed that if you go from heat to off, air still flows though the heat exchange box. So always go from AC to off at minimum. Best to just leave AC on.

2. Put self adhesive reflect shielding on the heater box under the hood. This did wonders by itself. I took the whole thing out so that I could add some to the fire wall as well. Taking it out made it easier to do. Also looks nice if you take your time. About $75 at NAPA.

3. Remove center console pieces and add a quality heatshield to the entire center console area. I used some heavy heat shield stuff I got from JEGS. This took the heat down to the next level. You need to cut out for the break handle, Shifter, and ashtray. Don't for get to cut openings for the center console tabs, and punch small holes for the screw holes. This can take some time if you want it to come out right. Secret, buy some adhesive spray to hold the carpet back in place, and a role of reflect tape to seal the some seams. Cost $50-$60?

If still not satisfied. I am.
4. You can add more heat shield to the floor well area under the carpet.

Extra! I did this and it helped some more, but option 1-3 got most of it.
5. Add the ROE side sill insulation kit. $130

I next plan to add a shift boot to reduce the heat coming from the shifter. I bought one, but I think I need to cut to make it work well. This area is still warm to hot air.

 

[Newport Viper]

I'm sure this has been covered before, but I'll ask again- to the guys who went with the Roe high-flows and exhaust, how much louder is it?

Wife hated it. Didn't want to ride in the car. Sets off car alarms real nice. There is some drone when highway driving....

P.S. I loved it!

 

[Randy]

Strange, I put more than 70k miles on a Gen I (1995) and never had any problem with footwell heat. Perhaps its because I normally wear boots? Perhaps thats your answer?