Wet Sanding my '98 RT/10 Trunk

[Vipuronr]

So, one of the issues with buying a Viper (or any car) online, is that you really can't see any imperfections or starting imperfections in the paint. Okay, so I won't do that again, but I love my RT.....

So, having worked in a body shop through most of my college years, I decided to take a shot at correcting the paint issue on my trunk (and left quarter) by wet sanding and buffing. Here are a couple of shots to show the work:

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So, I spent about three hours or so doing this, complete trunk (except license plate area) and right rear quarter. My neighbor happened to have all the right tools...lucky me, didn't have to buy them!

Will post "after" photos as soon as I can take them. Will tell you, it came out great...so I am going to do the rest of the car to bring the paint closer to what I think Viper paint should be.

Last, I checked the history of the car...ala Carfax and nothing showed. I know the trunk was sprayed...so Carfax leaves something to be desired...yes, I read the posts on Carfax inaccuracy...but, after I bought my car. I am only the second owner, so I suspect something happened "up high" and the owner decided to finally sell it....oh well.

Sorry, Sunday morning coffee talk.

Anyway, will post more pics soon.

Peter

 

[Vipuronr]

Re: Wet Sanding my '98 RT/10 Trunk-after photos

Okay, so under the worst light for body work, florescent light, I took a few pics. Notice the clean reflection of the light on the trunk and rear quarter:

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Seems with all this rain, I might as well do the things that are needed, because driving just isn't the thing right now!

But, I'll be happier driving once I finish detailing the paint...do I hear "car show"????? Just kidding!

So, what do you think Chuck???

 

[Richard Koch]

It looks like you did a great job with your "color sanding". I remember the first time I took the 1000 and 1500 grit paper to my paintwork. You wonder whether it will really do the job. I did my black Viper and it came out great. Skill with the buffer and polish work finishes it up and it is like having the car re-painted.

 

[Vipuronr]

Thanks Richard.....

If anyone is interested, here are the steps:

Tape off around areas to be sanded and buffed

Wetsand with 2000 grit wetsand paper (can follow with 3000 if needed)
First buffing - liquid polish compound (don't need rubbing compound, risk of buffing through clear coat). Used DeWalt professional multi-speed buffer. Start with slower speed and finish with higher speed to buff to shine
Meguiars Liquid Paint Cleaner - used polish vibrating buffer (no risk of burn through). Takes out remaining buff (and possible) remaining light sanding scratches...buffs to high shine
Meguiars Pure Carnuba Show Car Wax (no cleaners).

Photos are only one coat of wax, may have to do bit more touch up with paint cleaner to bring shine out of a few areas near edges.

Edges are more difficult to buff...greater risk of burn through.

 

[sdaddy]

I just paid a guy $800 to completely wet sand and detail my 96 GTS. It took him 20 hours total and made a huge difference. It is amazing how many paint flaws from the factory can be fixed by someone with a good eye and a good touch. I do not have that kind of patience and would have been through the clearcoat on every edge.

Very few people with this kind of skill at this and those who have it don't work cheap. I felt like I got what I paid for and was very please with the outcome. He did the work in my garage and driveway and worked like a dog non-stop for the 20 hours.

Thanks Richard.....

If anyone is interested, here are the steps:

Tape off around areas to be sanded and buffedWetsand with 2000 grit wetsand paper (can follow with 3000 if needed)
First buffing - liquid polish compound (don't need rubbing compound, risk of buffing through clear coat). Used DeWalt professional multi-speed buffer. Start with slower speed and finish with higher speed to buff to shine
Meguiars Liquid Paint Cleaner - used polish vibrating buffer (no risk of burn through). Takes out remaining buff (and possible) remaining light sanding scratches...buffs to high shine
Meguiars Pure Carnuba Show Car Wax (no cleaners).

Photos are only one coat of wax, may have to do bit more touch up with paint cleaner to bring shine out of a few areas near edges.

Edges are more difficult to buff...greater risk of burn through.

 

[99 R/T 10]

The trunk and RR 1/4 on my 99 looks similar. I think it is more a factory flaw than anything else. You did a great job.

 

[Vipuronr]

Well, I've read many of the posts - pro and con - regarding wet sanding. If done correctly, it can make a huge difference to the look of your paint. You have to be patient and not rush through the process, especially the wetsanding. I used 2000 grit, but if a bit nervous about sanding through the clear coat, you can use 3000 grit.

I am beginning to do the rest of the car. I'll post pictures of the car when done. The rest of the car, however, is quite nice... I just like the "liquid" look of paint when it is really smooth and very shiny.

Any questions, shoot me a note.

Peter

 

[Mad Max 93 RT10]

I'm having the front half of my car painted and the rear wet sanded and buffed. I'm hoping to save the rear paint for a few more years before changing the color of the car. Hence the reason for only painting the front half.

 

[cayman]

I believe what you're seeing may not necessarily be an indication of a repaint gone bad on your trunk. I have a '98 RT and was convinced after I got it, that it had been repainted by a 10 year old. OK, that wasn't fair. I actually know a 10 year old that could have done better. Anyways, I had sand marks and fish eyes on both rear fenders and the trunk. I went to a Viper rally and lo and behold, I saw three other Vipers with the same paint blemishes. After researching it, I discovered the factory paint job, especially on the 97-98 models, were less than stellar. Also, the panels are all painted at different factory locations and brought to one assembly location, adding to the inconsistencies of the paint quality from one panel to the next. I corrected the deficiencies in the way you're doing. Just be very careful not to sand through the clear coat!

 

[Vipuronr]

Thanks Cayman....that is reassuring...I think!!! Though I'm not positive, it just looks like poor prep under the paint...possibly could be incompatability between the base coat and top coats...but who knows!

I am going to finish wetsanding the rest of the car. While it certainly looks acceptable to others, I do not think the car was sprayed well and doesn't have that smooth, flat reflective quality that a good paint job would have. If I bought this car new, I wouldn't have accepted it and would have made the dealer wetsand it first...then they take the risk....ahhh, wishful thinking! Because the paint on the rest of the car is pretty good, I only have to do very light wetsanding, so less risk of sanding through the clear coat.

I will say, it is tricky wetsanding, as its not really known how think the clear is on any one part of the car.

Here's hoping the paint comes out the way I want it to......

 

[Vipuronr]

Re: Wet Sanding my '98 RT/10 Trunk - More Pics

Finished the left rear quarter and driver's door. Driver's door, while shiny, was ripply which I have had on some of my Vette's. The "after" is much better, but I can still see where the correct prep work was not done at the factory....very disappointing. When sanding, have to resist trying to make it right, as you can easily sand through the clear. Though not perfect, I am certainly happy with the outcome....a much cleaner and flatter line in the reflection. Clearly, I am looking at the car in the worst, most strict type of light - florescent - which show every flaw in body work.

Wetsanded Driver's Quarter:

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Comparing Roughness of Door Pre-Sand)to Just Buffed Quarter:

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Wetsanded Driver's Door:

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Driver's Door & Quarter After Buffing, Pre-Wax:

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Driver's Door & Quarter After One Coat of Meguiar's Pure Carnuba:

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I will say, as I'm sanding, the thought does cross my mind that I'm actually sanding the paint on my Viper.....ugh, what if it doesn't work....but, to my relief, it did!

Unfortunately for me, I am a perfectionist. Nothing short of stripping the car to bare fiberglass and sanding all the imperfections first to do the "correct" prep work and THEN painting will make me totally satisfied. However, that said, I am not going to do that as the cost versus how noticeable the difference would be just makes no sense.

It is very satisfying work for me (used to do). I would do this work for members in my area for reasonable price...if anyone is interested pm me.....

I will wait til car is finished to post anymore pics.

Thanks.

Peter

 

[TAXIMAN1]

I agree with the O.P. the trunk has been repainted.. But unless you see major reconstruction, I wouldn't sweat it... The only time Paintwork work would be a problem, is on a low mile collector car.. If this is a driver, its not a big deal..

I've seen 1-2,000 mile cars with paintwork. Most owners don't even know, but I would guess 40%(maybe more) of every GenII Viper, HAS HAD some type of paintwork. Ranging from Accident repair, to something minor like a Front Facia/side sill re-srpray due to Rock chips.. And not accident related. In fact, I'd guess almost 50% have at least had the facia re-sprayed, at this point. Even the final year 2002, is a 7 year old car.

Anyway, Nice Job... Wet Sanding is a LOT of work... Well worth the effort though

 

[Vipuronr]

Thanks Taximan....

I had the car totally looked over the first time I brought it to Chuck. He said the car showed no signs of ever being hit and that it was in very good condition for a Florida car (high humidity). I did show him why I thought the trunk was sprayed and he agreed (that's the downside of having worked in a body shop).

So, I think the damage was cosmetic only...no signs of repair inside the truck either.

It is low mileage, now at 6,200, and I drive it infrequently. Didn't buy it to be a collector car, just a really nice low mileage car...which is what it is. Could have been anything, someone keying the car for example.

Carfax, for what it is worth, totally clean.

So, for me, not looking to buy another Viper....with two young kids, happy I have this. I will use my past expertise to make it the best it can be and then just enjoy it. Future work will be performance mods...exhaust and who knows what else.

Peter

 

[Leslie]

Re: Wet Sanding my '98 RT/10 Trunk - More Pics

It is very satisfying work for me (used to do). I would do this work for members in my area for reasonable price...if anyone is interested pm me.....

I will wait til car is finished to post anymore pics.

Thanks.

Peter

ok I am moving to CT

 

[Vipuronr]

Okay, I'm ready....

 

[cayman]

"I will say, as I'm sanding, the thought does cross my mind that I'm actually sanding the paint on my Viper.....ugh, what if it doesn't work....but, to my relief, it did!"

If the water in your water bucket starts turning red.....STOP!!!

Honestly, its looking good!

 

[Vipuronr]

Okay, I lied....I like the way the hood came out after finishing the wetsanding, so here are a few more pictures:

Driver's Side of car including hood:

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Driver's Side Top of Hood:

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Driver's Side Side of Hood:

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I've now decided to resurrect my old detailing business focusing mainly on paint. I will be doing this on a limited basis, now that I'm retired I have the additional time to do so.

Will take pictures of car when finish and post (I know, I said that already). I think it will speak for itself.

I will say, I am quite pleased with the outcome. But for me, being a perfectionist, I am not pleased with the quality of the fiberglass finish. I had the same issue with many of my Vettes, but I expected more from a car that was hand made. Ah well, maybe the Chrysler thing kind of reared its head!

But, I love my Viper...regardless.

Thanks.

Peter

 

[Vipuronr]

I did have an interesting question on waxes for the exhaust side covers. Since the get hot, will all waxes just melt off after a ride or two. I have seen some great comments on some waxes I have not used as yet - Pinnacle, Turbowax - but I have always had good luck on my Vettes in shows using Meguiars....so, I stick with it.

Just wondering if they all melt the same.

Thanks.

Peter