What bad O2 sensors in a Gen1 might feel like

Tom F&L GoR

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Since O2 sensors aren't usually a tune-up item, I tend to assume they're fine until they light a check engine light... wrong.

I have a '94 Gen 1 with 52,000 miles, therefore ODB 1. Engine has 3" exhaust, 1.7 rockers, and smooth tubes. I sort of got used to the snorty rough sound and feel after cold starts (blaming the factory fixed open loop fuel strategy not working well with the engine mods), but lately the engine had definite "shifts" that made it feel like someone was retarding the timing and then advancing the timing with a flick of a switch. This started happening only when cold, but then it would happen after a shutdown and restart that allowed the O2 sensors (but not necessarily the coolant temp) to cool.

I borrowed an OTC 4000 from work to watch the sensor inputs to the ECU; thinking it was something big like a throttle position or manifold pressure sensor. What I saw was that both O2 sensors would show lean, one side would occasionally "freeze" at low voltages (they should be 0 to 1 volts, midway being stoichiometric.) But because the signal abnormalities were only a second or two, it apparently wouldn't set a code. In fact, there were never any trouble codes stored. Running lean, the engine feels down on power and has the sound it gets on high RPM decels.

All of this wouldn't happen until about two minutes after the start, and then go away when it was fully warmed up.

I replaced both O2 sensors, and both the old O2 sensor heating elements read the required resistance, about 4 ohms. But the engine runs much "smoother" and all the rough start running is gone. I can only assume that even though the O2 sensors were being warmed electrically, they weren't maintaining enough temperature to operate correctly. What is still a mystery is that they were as bad as they were, but never set a trouble code.

Anyway, at about $90 list, $73 friendly price, (need two) it might be something higher mile cars want to put on the list. And if anyone has other experiences, please share.
 

HP

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Could deposits on the O2 senser be responsible for - less
than accurate reading - but not enough to register with PCM?
 
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Tom F&L GoR

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The old sensors look tan, maybe a little sooty near the base (threaded end.) No deposits on the outer cover nor inside the cover, though.

I'm hoping an electical guru will say that given the time and temperatures, they normally only last say, 52000 miles?
 

Tiepilot

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It's a bit of inside mechanic info to replace your O2 Sensor(s) about every 30K miles, just to keep this part from causing problems. I have never needed to replace one but I do just as preventative maintenance.
 

HP

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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by jp:
What happen with the when running on Nitrous? (lean and hot)

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I've always heard lean & hot is good(up to a certain point)
I know that certain gas additives that were used back before
O2 sensers, had to be discontinued because they fouled the sensers(mainly oils for O-ring conditioning)
 
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