v10enomous
Enthusiast
I'm look for feedback from people that have applied an epoxy or epoxy like garage floor coating ?
Which is best ? Cost ?
Which is best ? Cost ?
What is the Best Garage Floor Coating ?
- Thread starter v10enomous
- Start date
Well I paid the big bucks for UCoat-it and it still lifted in a few spots, after a few years. If I had to do it again, I would have just gone down to a Commercial Flooring store and bought the cheapest, yet strongest stuff they make. Slap it on real thick and call it good.
Not sure that helps you but then again I did not have a good experience. I washed and scrubbed the damn floor for a full week before I laid everything down so it just upsets me. My father in law put on the cheapest stuff from Home Depot and I am not sure my UCoat-it held any better than the $50 package he put down. $50 did not even cover the tax I paid for the UCoat-it.
In the end, I don't think it matters. It is all in the prep and prep and prep.
Not sure that helps you but then again I did not have a good experience. I washed and scrubbed the damn floor for a full week before I laid everything down so it just upsets me. My father in law put on the cheapest stuff from Home Depot and I am not sure my UCoat-it held any better than the $50 package he put down. $50 did not even cover the tax I paid for the UCoat-it.
In the end, I don't think it matters. It is all in the prep and prep and prep.
AZTVR
Enthusiast
In addition to the responses you get here, I recommend that you go to the following forum where a lot of your questions are probably already answered. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=20
345s-bspinnin
Enthusiast
As with Coloviper, I spent the big bucks and went with the industrial strength solvent-based epoxy. I ended getting mine from carguygarage. The main ingredients to good epoxy floor coating are prepping and sealing. I spend a significant amount of time cleaning, degreasing, and pressure washing before I even received the kit. I then performed the recommended 5 step system: Clean/Etch -> Sealer -> Epoxy Coat -> Epoxy Coat and Flakes -> Urethane Seal and anti-skid, then waited 7 days before driving on it. Mine has worked well. There is absolutely zero tire pick up, including parking my hot tired 6000 SUV on it. I chose a really light gray color, so there is a very small amount of yellowing where the hot tires cool down. Aside from that, it hasn't disappointed.
My $.02
My $.02
Stay away from the Sherwin Williams store brand. I think it is called Epoxy Shield. Lifts if WATER sets on it. The store refunded my entire purchase price for the product....leaving me to redo the 1200 foot floor with something that works. Porceline tile. Never lifts. Just saying. *****.
Matt M PA
Enthusiast
When I converted/redid my attached garage, I used a RaceDeck style product called Sport Court.
When I build my bigger, detached garage I used a concrete stain. It's solid color and the idea is that it is supposed to leach into the concrete and be more strong than an epoxy type coating. My floor was new, protected from oil, etc during the build....then ground and cleaned. The stain was applied and looked great...but I do have some mild tire pick-up and since it's not smooth like an epoxy, it's not the easiest to clean.
My next floor for this garage will be VCT. That's the tile used in cafeterias, offices, etc...they come in multiple colors wtih a grey speckle. The adhesive used is good down to 50 degrees, and they are color all the way through so scratches can be buffed out. VCT costs something like .80 per square foot at Lowes, Depot, etc.
When I build my bigger, detached garage I used a concrete stain. It's solid color and the idea is that it is supposed to leach into the concrete and be more strong than an epoxy type coating. My floor was new, protected from oil, etc during the build....then ground and cleaned. The stain was applied and looked great...but I do have some mild tire pick-up and since it's not smooth like an epoxy, it's not the easiest to clean.
My next floor for this garage will be VCT. That's the tile used in cafeterias, offices, etc...they come in multiple colors wtih a grey speckle. The adhesive used is good down to 50 degrees, and they are color all the way through so scratches can be buffed out. VCT costs something like .80 per square foot at Lowes, Depot, etc.
To protect the underside of my car I use that large rubber mats sold at most large hardware chains. They do not allow moisture from the ground to rise up into the under carriage and are mold resistant and if you car leaks the stains wipe right up.
Bruce
Bruce
Black Moon
Enthusiast
I used a commercial product from PPG. You can pour gas or carb cleaner on it and it won't come up. Plum is correct. Prep is everything. If its old grind it if you have to.
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V
Venomiss
Guest
v10enomous
Enthusiast
50 degrees ? Is that true of all peel and sticks ?
TrackAire
Enthusiast
Like all others have said, 95% of epoxy floor success is the prep work.
Please note, if you've seen pictures of large garages with Lear jets and Lambos parked on a super shiney epoxy floor, this is not reality. Even with a clear coat topcoat, the floor will start to lose some of its sparkle the more you drive on it, drag a floor jack on it, etc. The more micro fine scratches you create, the more it loses its super shiney finish. It is possible to keep that shiney finish, but it does require buffing, polishing and waxing just like VCT tiles need in supermarkets if you want to abuse the surface and keep it super shiney.
For my garage, I've been looking at a product called Swisstrax that has an open grid design. My theory is that a lot of fine grit and dirt from our shoes will fall through the grid before it is tracked into the house. They make it in two versions, a harder plastic and a softer plastic. One of the problems with the plastic floor coverings is they tend to be kind of loud when walking on them (like you're wearing tap shoes). The softer Swisstrax makes almost no noise at all, even with hard sole shoes.
One of the products that I do have to admit has done very well is the roll out vinyl flooring from BLT Products. We've had it in use in our workplace for over 4 years with very heavy foot traffic, pallet jacks and roll around tool carts. We used the coin pattern and it has held up great, almost no wear and mops clean very easily.
You may also want to consider how long you're going to live at your house. Since epoxy, VCT and stain are permanent, you can't move them to your future house like you can plastic floor tile or roll out vinyl flooring.
In the end, all floor coverings have pros and cons.....good luck and have fun with your project.
Cheers,
George
Please note, if you've seen pictures of large garages with Lear jets and Lambos parked on a super shiney epoxy floor, this is not reality. Even with a clear coat topcoat, the floor will start to lose some of its sparkle the more you drive on it, drag a floor jack on it, etc. The more micro fine scratches you create, the more it loses its super shiney finish. It is possible to keep that shiney finish, but it does require buffing, polishing and waxing just like VCT tiles need in supermarkets if you want to abuse the surface and keep it super shiney.
For my garage, I've been looking at a product called Swisstrax that has an open grid design. My theory is that a lot of fine grit and dirt from our shoes will fall through the grid before it is tracked into the house. They make it in two versions, a harder plastic and a softer plastic. One of the problems with the plastic floor coverings is they tend to be kind of loud when walking on them (like you're wearing tap shoes). The softer Swisstrax makes almost no noise at all, even with hard sole shoes.
One of the products that I do have to admit has done very well is the roll out vinyl flooring from BLT Products. We've had it in use in our workplace for over 4 years with very heavy foot traffic, pallet jacks and roll around tool carts. We used the coin pattern and it has held up great, almost no wear and mops clean very easily.
You may also want to consider how long you're going to live at your house. Since epoxy, VCT and stain are permanent, you can't move them to your future house like you can plastic floor tile or roll out vinyl flooring.
In the end, all floor coverings have pros and cons.....good luck and have fun with your project.
Cheers,
George
Matt M PA
Enthusiast
VCT is not a "peel and stick" tile. The adhesive that is trowelled on the floor used to be good down to 50 degrees. I understand there is a newer version that can withstand lower temps. We had this in the unheated foyer of our former office for years with no issues, however.
Some have concerns about slipperyness of these when wet, but there are waxes that can be applied for slip prevention. Also, if one tile gets damaged...it can be replaced.
Some have concerns about slipperyness of these when wet, but there are waxes that can be applied for slip prevention. Also, if one tile gets damaged...it can be replaced.
viperdrummer
Enthusiast
Epoxy coat
v10enomous
Enthusiast
The stain idea seems interesting. I'm curious what the price range is for that...
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Mopar Steve
Enthusiast
I did u-coat it on a brand new floor. They said wait for a month I did, prepped it as directed, and still have pealing and lifting issues. I do NOT recommend it.
Viper Garage Elite
Viper Owner
I am a concrete specialist and can help u out. Is your garage attached with a foundation or free floating. ALL floor coatings will fail without proper prep but even if done right can still have failure do to excessive water vapor permiating through the concrete floor from ground moisture. In the north with our winters water vapor will be more prevailent. Arizona and states with low humidity will come out beautifully. To make ur coatings last in cold weather and high humidity areas u MUST after proper prep use a Deep Pentrating Sealer first. This will make ur concrete cyrastalize and stop failure do to moisture moving through ur floor. U can buy DPS at a contractor builders supply store. Not your average "home depot". You can use a solvent based DPS. It will run about $150.00/5 gal. pail. Or contact Creto World Wide on the web.
FYI... http://www.euclidchemical.com/, and http://www.specchemllc.com/ all make great penetrating sealers
if you are on the east coast, i can help someone find a good sealer.
if you are on the east coast, i can help someone find a good sealer.
Mopar Steve
Enthusiast
Bare fresh concrete. allowed to set and dry for about a month. Then the steps started, all by the directions, first the acid, then the rinse, then...
It is still covered but the areas that had brake fluid on them (was supposed to be resistant) has lifted, and tools that have scratched the surface has caused lifting. It just did not hold up as well as advertised. It is now about eight years old and I am faced with what to do with it now.
Black Moon
Enthusiast
http://www.rsci.com/paint-sundries/paint/aquapon
This is the Aquapon by PPG that I mentioned. It's about $120 for one gallon color and activator together. Follow it up with their clear. 4 years now and I just blew out the garage today then pressure washed it. Looks like it just went down but not as shinny due to usage. I highly reccomend it especially if you work in your garage.
Is this new concrete or older? Any sealer on it now??
This is the Aquapon by PPG that I mentioned. It's about $120 for one gallon color and activator together. Follow it up with their clear. 4 years now and I just blew out the garage today then pressure washed it. Looks like it just went down but not as shinny due to usage. I highly reccomend it especially if you work in your garage.
Is this new concrete or older? Any sealer on it now??
like viper garage said if the concrete wasnt placed properly, the vapor barrier wasnt installed correctly if any at all, this will cause vapors to rise thru the concrete and force coatings to lift.
steve, the best way to do that is to blast or diamond grind. acid will only go down so far, any oil thats been sitting there for a long time has a lot of chance of getting pretty deep into the concrete.
steve, the best way to do that is to blast or diamond grind. acid will only go down so far, any oil thats been sitting there for a long time has a lot of chance of getting pretty deep into the concrete.
Black Moon
Enthusiast
I didn't use a vapor barrier on mine but I'm in the south. There has been a lot of discussion among builders as to it's necessity. Some new codes aren't requiring it. Up north I'd definately use it though.
I still haven't heard if this is new or old concrete.
I still haven't heard if this is new or old concrete.
FLX109
Enthusiast
I deal with this all the time in my business, concrete holds moisture and when you seal the top the moisture within or below from the ground etc creates pressure and will eventually pop through the surface, the moisture gets drawn up to the surface, happens alot in high water table areas. Products that have held up fine for me have been concrete stains, I use them in warehouses, concrete decks around swimming pools, patios, walkways. All of the sealers will eventually break down because the pores are closed but if you stain and keep the pores open moisture will release with no breakdown of the stain color.
I've always considered building codes to be the "minimum" needed to get by. We do use vapor barriers up here in the Northeast. In my basement floor I used a vapor barrier as well as styrofoam underneath the concrete. In my garage floor, I used a vapor barrier but I don't have any issues with water tables or moisture. It is interesting the varying opinions among builder with regards to vapor barriers. Regarding my garage floor, I went overboard with the prep work...bead blasted the concrete and acid-etched it. I used a 3 part epoxy system and the initial coat was a sealer/bonding agent. It's been 3 years and the floor still looks immaculate.
I have never seen an Epoxy garage floor hold up.
I think that anyone who says theirs is good either:
- just put it down less than two years ago
- has a museum garage where minimal work is done and the cars are pulled in and out minimaly.
If you know of someone that contradicts this, i'd have them help you completely with the install
A common problem that i see is pulling a car into the garage with hot tires. The hot tires make love to the epoxy as they cool down then when you drive away in the morning the tires want to hold on to the epoxy.
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Another options to look at is this roll-out vinyl flooring called G-Floor.
I threw down two 9X20"ers in my 2-car garage with a two ft gap in the middle then went up to homedepot and cut a 20' long 3' wide runner to throw down the middle.
It looks NICE,
Several colors to pick from,(i like the dark green & brick red)
Will Never Peal up,
Is Easy to clean,
The ribs in the vinyl contain any spills from spreading sideways (great for the winter wet salt crap)
It looks NICE.
http://www.bltllc.com/blt_main.htm
Cheapest place i could find to purchase it is SamsClub:
http://www.samsclub.com/sams/search...chTerm=g-floor&fromHome=yes&_requestid=158599
If your interested, call the company and they will send you a sample.
I think that anyone who says theirs is good either:
- just put it down less than two years ago
- has a museum garage where minimal work is done and the cars are pulled in and out minimaly.
If you know of someone that contradicts this, i'd have them help you completely with the install
A common problem that i see is pulling a car into the garage with hot tires. The hot tires make love to the epoxy as they cool down then when you drive away in the morning the tires want to hold on to the epoxy.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Another options to look at is this roll-out vinyl flooring called G-Floor.
I threw down two 9X20"ers in my 2-car garage with a two ft gap in the middle then went up to homedepot and cut a 20' long 3' wide runner to throw down the middle.
It looks NICE,
Several colors to pick from,(i like the dark green & brick red)
Will Never Peal up,
Is Easy to clean,
The ribs in the vinyl contain any spills from spreading sideways (great for the winter wet salt crap)
It looks NICE.
http://www.bltllc.com/blt_main.htm
Cheapest place i could find to purchase it is SamsClub:
http://www.samsclub.com/sams/search...chTerm=g-floor&fromHome=yes&_requestid=158599
If your interested, call the company and they will send you a sample.
Black Moon
Enthusiast
Mine still looks great after 3 years and I abuse the crap out of it. I drag equipment, spill gas and lacquar thinner and forget to clean it up. It comes down to the prep and use a commercial grade product like they use in hospitals, dealership show room floors, manufacturing facilities, etc. I also used a commercial clear that was expensive as hell. I even cleared over vinyl decals with no problem.
Now I also love the concrete staining which I would think would hold up even better.
Now I also love the concrete staining which I would think would hold up even better.
I have never seen an Epoxy garage floor hold up.
I think that anyone who says theirs is good either:
- just put it down less than two years ago
- has a museum garage where minimal work is done and the cars are pulled in and out minimaly.
If you know of someone that contradicts this, i'd have them help you completely with the install
A common problem that i see is pulling a car into the garage with hot tires. The hot tires make love to the epoxy as they cool down then when you drive away in the morning the tires want to hold on to the epoxy.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Another options to look at is this roll-out vinyl flooring called G-Floor.
I threw down two 9X20"ers in my 2-car garage with a two ft gap in the middle then went up to homedepot and cut a 20' long 3' wide runner to throw down the middle.
It looks NICE,
Several colors to pick from,(i like the dark green & brick red)
Will Never Peal up,
Is Easy to clean,
The ribs in the vinyl contain any spills from spreading sideways (great for the winter wet salt crap)
It looks NICE.
http://www.bltllc.com/blt_main.htm
Cheapest place i could find to purchase it is SamsClub:
http://www.samsclub.com/sams/search...chTerm=g-floor&fromHome=yes&_requestid=158599
If your interested, call the company and they will send you a sample.
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