What needs done before Viper days?

[Wild Bill]

7 weeks till race day

I've got a hardtop lined up if I can't borrow one from another attendee in Dallas. Getting new tires and a brake fluid change from Archer. I'll do an oil change this weekend. Shopping around for helmets. I have o/e brake pads with 13k on them (if they are original)-think these will last for the weekend? Other fluids look ok. Have I missed anything I need to prep on the car before this event? We will be driving her to the track and back home-will there be some place at the track where I can store my soft top? I'll have everything else removed. Should I take off the center caps?

Any tips on anything else I need to do or look at is greatly appreciated!

Bill

 

[Fast Viper Dan]

Remove one of your front wheels and take a good look at your pads. Chances are if they have been there that long they are 1/2 or less. The grove in the center of the pad is around a 3/8 inch deep on new pads. The first half of the pads work a lot better than the second half due to the additional heat held in the pads with less area to displace.
Advice, New pads for the front minimum, Check the rears. Stock pads are ok for first time out. Archer will have some more track type pads if you want something better.
You might want to have all of your fluids changed if this has not yet been done. The coolant as well as the transmission and differential fluids do break down. This is regular maintenance that should be done at least every two years or 10K.
Just my opinion.
Listen to Skip, Listen to the instructors. You have all weekend to improve. If you break something the first time out your done!
Have a blast!
Warning!
This can be addicting!
Dan

 

[Janni]

Bleed clutch fluid.

Make sure brake fluid will be changed to high temp - Castrol SRF, Motul 600 or AP Racing 600 (never mind - see that Archer's is doing it -no worries). Consider changing to new pads (can't remember if the Ranch is ******* pads?)

Change power steering fluid to Redline. Make sure cap is TIGHT before going out each session.

Check coolant and flush if it's getting old.

Your center caps will have to be removed. Check lug nut torque to 90 or so each morning BEFORE getting car hot.

Check all fluids every AM before running.

Lift hood and do a visual inspection before each run session.

Have a tire pressure guage with you to check pressures - Michelins don't like to go over 42 PSI or so.

Feel free to stop by and we can help store your stuff in/near our trailer.

Have fun - it's a blast!

 

[BIGBADCJ]

wild bill you have a pm

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

I use a pipe wrench on my ps cap.

 

[Dixter]

Do like the other posts say and bring several rolls of blue masking tape to tape
off your head lights so they don't get messed up.

When you come into the pits do not use your parking brake because the rotors
will be hot and you can warp them.

Make sure you take care of yourself.... drink plenty of water.
remember if it isn't coming out then your not putting enough of it in.

I'd change out all of the brake pads so you won't have to worry about them.
A used pad can make the fluid hotter because they heat up easier and don't
have the insulating that a new set has. Its not fun going into a corner
and finding out you have no brakes at all. They just don't work at all
when they get hot.

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

When you come into the pits do not use your parking brake because the rotors
will be hot and you can warp them.

I used to think the same thing until somebody pointed this thread out to me...
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm

 

[Vic]

I use a pipe wrench on my ps cap.

Hah ha ha!

 

[Vic]

When you come into the pits do not use your parking brake because the rotors
will be hot and you can warp them.

I used to think the same thing until somebody pointed this thread out to me...
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm

Hey, Chuck, Carrol's article does say that most "Warped rotor" diagnosis is wrong, and has more to do with deposited friction material, and several other things.

But the article didn't actually say that you can't really warp a rotor, by applying the parking brake when the pads and rotors are good and hot. It just says most warped rotor diagnosis is in error. Well, it really says that he has never seen a really warped rotor, but lots of other problems diagnosed as a warped rotor.

<snip>
Regardless of friction material, clamping the pads to a hot stationary disc will result in material transfer and discernible "brake roughness". What is worse, the pad will leave the telltale imprint or outline on the disc and your sin will be visible to all and sundry.
<unsnip>

Says specifically that its not good to clamp a hot pad to a stationary disk, and the article still leaves room for the possibility that you can warp a rotor by applying the parking brake when the system is hot, the way I see it. Or at least it doesn't say that you can't warp it.

What do you think?

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

I think it's probably good practice NOT to use the ebrake. Maybe the rotor will warp, or I've even heard of pads being welded to the rotor. It might even change the composition of the metal causing potential problems. I dunno. I just never use my ebrake.

However, I really do use a pipe wrench on my ps cap.

 

[SoCal Rebell]

Don't party with Courtney the night before.

 

[REDSLED]

Don't party with Courtney the night before.

Yep, Sunday at Thunderhill was one big hang over
Pace yourselves!