When closing the hood ...

[eliems]

I am finding it a challenge to get the hood closed properly, it seems that 2 times out of three it has a two inch gap on the pass side while locked down on the driver's side and the windsheild side is not aligned. Then I re-open all the way and try again and sometimes it fails again and sometimes it closes properly.

Is there a procedure you all follow? Closing the hood at the windshield firmly, guiding it into the locking mechanism or maybe really gently?

Then at the nose do you slam it down all the way or slowly do the first stage and then hard into the final lockdown?

Could my hinges be a bit loose or out of line, (it looks good when closed properly).

 

[RTTTTed]

It sounds like your hood adjustment needs work (search thread for that).

I close my hood gently and push the rear/windshield edge down all the way, then move around the front and pushing to the rear and down with my thumbs inside the Naca duct I close the hood the final step. No problem and it works smoothly.

Ted

 

[PS78]

has anyone ever cracked the hood front end by pushing down in the wrong place(s)?...where are the wrong places?! i push down either side of the naca duct (1), but inboard of the above-wheel-arch vents (i.e. close to above where the hinges attach below, inside the hood.. Wonder if better to push down further to the front (but still either side of the naca vent) (2)..?...

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[dave6666]

Why the Fangs emblem on a Gen 2?

Anyway, in regards to the issue of the hood not always latching correctly, I would recommend lubricating the latches and guides. I did a write up on that in the Illustrated Upgrades section.

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[Dom426h]

#1 is where i push down on my hood in a quick firm motion.

If your hood is not catching on one side then you have to adjust that bumpstop DOWN to allow the latch to go down enough to catch.

The precise process is to:
Lower the bumpstops a couple full turns,
slide a piece of paper in there,
Shut the hood and try to pull the paper out, it should pull out easily, if not make them lower.
Now adjust the bumpstops up 1/2turn at a time UP untill the paper is just barely stuck.

Too Tight and your hood will be difficult to shut,
Too Loose and your hood will vibrate

Now, If you have to adjust the location of the hood simply loosen the 2bolts on each bracket and slide em to where you want em. (any time you do this you have to readjust your bumpstops)

Goodluck

 

[Lowdesert]

Check the mounting point for the hood hinge on the car. That rail will bend due to the stress of supporting the weight of the hood when it is open. The top of the rail is capped and should be flat. If it is crowned, it is bending.

 

[PS78]

Why the Fangs emblem on a Gen 2?

Is that not as obvious as: why the black stripes?
why red?
why a viper?







(A:because i prefer it like that.....!)

 

[cayman]

When I first got my Vip, I closed the hood at position 2 and always had an issue with the hood latching cockeyed, sometimes with only one side latching and the other not. In fact, there were a couple of times I played hell trying to get the hood popped back open because it was closed at an angle and jammed. I finally started to close it at position 1 or actually up and over closer to the ducts and I never had an issue afterwards. I also will give it a good solid even shove down. Don't baby it or it won't go down evenly, which may cause it to latch on one side but not the other. Then what happens is the spring will force the hood up on the unlatched side, causing the whole hood to get all jacked up. I never had to adjust anything. In fact, I've had the hood off several times and even the hinges and latches off to get chromed. Only had to make some minor adjustments when putting the hinges and latches back on to make things work and lined up.

 

[DrumrBoy]

If its tough closing, you can always reach in there and spring the latch manually before pushing (at point 1) the hood down for the final close. Just push the latch to the left and let go....prepares the mech to accept the hood when you close it.

 

[eucharistos]

#1 is where i push down on my hood in a quick firm motion.

If your hood is not catching on one side then you have to adjust that bumpstop DOWN to allow the latch to go down enough to catch.

The precise process is to:
Lower the bumpstops a couple full turns,
slide a piece of paper in there,
Shut the hood and try to pull the paper out, it should pull out easily, if not make them lower.
Now adjust the bumpstops up 1/2turn at a time UP untill the paper is just barely stuck.

Too Tight and your hood will be difficult to shut,
Too Loose and your hood will vibrate

Now, If you have to adjust the location of the hood simply loosen the 2bolts on each bracket and slide em to where you want em. (any time you do this you have to readjust your bumpstops)

Goodluck

good description

thanks

 

[dave6666]

Is that not as obvious as: why the black stripes?
why red?
why a viper?

No it isn't.

I might have white hood vents and big rig Dodge stickers on my sills, but using badging that does not go with the model car it is on escapes me. I won't even wear a Fangs shirt.

Dave, Gen 2 owner.

 

[97GTS]

Now Dave in his defense, I considered doing the same thing on my 97 GTS. I always thought that "Pete" looked stupid and when I saw Fang, I really liked the way he looked. Most people don't know the difference and if it trips his trigger, well that is what these cars are all about.
Guess I shouldn't tell you that I am going to paint my 97 black, should I?


Ron

 

[goldcup]

Dont know if Im right but I was taught to place hands just inside of each louvered vent?

 

[okloneranger]

If your hood closes correctly some of the time, the times it doesn't are due to operator error-too little umph when closing. If you use the correct hand placement you won't crack anything. The trailing edge of the naca scoop is far enough back for your hands. We're all guilty from time to time of "babying" it when closing the hood. Last weekend I thought mine was shut, tooled over to a Shelby meet for a slow drive through at their meet, got lots of looks and some thumbs up from people there. When I returned home-have to enter the drive at a 45 degree, wheels straight or I rub, got out and the passenger side had poped up. Don't know when-hopefully going back up the drive. When it pops up you won't hear or see it.

 

[dave6666]

Keep your latches lubed with WD40 and you will find that your umph can be less.

 

[fdjake]

WD 40 is NOT a lubricant.....It's a SOLVENT. That's why it REMOVES films like adhesive stickers and residue. If you want to KEEP your latches LUBED use PB Blaster.

WD stands for WATER DISPLACEMENT....The 40 was the number of attempts the inventor tried before finding the one he liked.

WD 40 is 50% Stoddard SOLVENT
25% liquified petroleum gas (propellent)
15% Mineral oil ( a crappy light weight oil)
10% inert ingredients

PB Blaster is a PENETRATING LUBRICANT.....It will work perfectly on your latches, and is
IDEAL for removing spark plugs. Spray it onto your plugs a few hours before you attempt to remove them and they will come out by hand after the initial break with a socket.

 

[dave6666]

WD 40 is NOT a lubricant.....It's a SOLVENT. That's why it REMOVES films like adhesive stickers and residue. If you want to KEEP your latches LUBED use PB Blaster.

WD stands for WATER DISPLACEMENT....The 40 was the number of attempts the inventor tried before finding the one he liked.

WD 40 is 50% Stoddard SOLVENT
25% liquified petroleum gas (propellent)
15% Mineral oil ( a crappy light weight oil)
10% inert ingredients

PB Blaster is a PENETRATING LUBRICANT.....It will work perfectly on your latches, and is
IDEAL for removing spark plugs. Spray it onto your plugs a few hours before you attempt to remove them and they will come out by hand after the initial break with a socket.

If you read past the first paragraph, you'll see this was written:

The long term active ingredient is a non-volatile, viscous oil which remains on the surface, providing lubrication and protection from moisture. This is diluted with a volatile hydrocarbon to give a low viscosity fluid which can be sprayed and thus get into crevices. The volatile hydrocarbon then evaporates, leaving the oil behind. A propellant (originally a low-molecular weight hydrocarbon, now carbon dioxide) provides gas pressure in the can to force the liquid through the spray nozzle, then itself diffuses away.

I'm sure you'll be editing your post again. I see that you already couldn't resist.

 

[eucharistos]

multi-cross-thread banter

 

[jcaspar1]

What ever you do. Don't lubricate the hinges!

 

[eliems]

What ever you do. Don't lubricate the hinges!

Uh ... why is that?

 

[sirhc76]

Uh ... why is that?

Your hood wont stay up,its the reason someone I know carries a nice little prop stick around with them

Also make sure that rubber molding on your splash shields hasn't moved.