Definitely so. If you don't piddle around while pulling the spring and recapping, you shouldn't have to bleed the MC. The rear circuit needs extra attention.
I stumbled upon these saved photos that someone else took many years ago when removing the spring. Some folks remove the o-ring and leave the spring. I removed the spring and left the o-ring on the spool. Spool has to stay in because it seals against the hollow cap nut.
That does look pretty crusty in there. In my experience, 90% of the trouble is at the caliper actuator levers and springs. Pull the rear pads and rotors. Use either the correct driver, or a good pair of needle-nose pliers to push/screw the pistons back into the calipers (clockwise) 'til they...
https://theviperregistry.org/
At approx. build date 04/04/93 following changes occurred:
Rear antenna replaced by windshield antenna wire
Battery relocated to left rear fender (side away from fuel filler to make room for BUX rear exit exhaust)
Front caliper lettering changed from...
To disable the proportioning section of the OE Combination Valve: remove the nut at the back, (it's tight!) remove the spool valve and spring, then reinsert the spool and screw the nut back on. It becomes a 1:1 pass-through chamber and still retains the safety valve operation.
The adjustable...
I have Z-E-R-O faith in those Scotch-lock taps. The conductors on our cars are already somewhat marginal and anything that compromises the integrity of the wires is practically guaranteed to cause you problems down the road. I've tried with low success to solder broken door wires, but they just...
If you ever track your car, or think you might, get 18x11 fronts. You can get 275/285s to seat just fine. If you ever sell them, they are more desirable for anyone who tracks, or wants to run a 295-315 front.
The early ones had a small roll pin driven thru across the lever shaft. It engaged under a stiff piece of wire in the windshield header receptacle. With too much air pressure at the header, the wires would deflect up, the roll pins would lose contact and the top went sailing.
In my new '93, I...
Vipers have fully adjustable caster and camber via lower wisbone adjuster cams, both front AND rear. The only way a typical shop can measure caster is swiveling the wheels 20degrees left and right, then back to center to calculate. You can't physically do that at the rear, so Dodge supplies...
One thing you can do RIGHT NOW, FOR FREE is to remove the spring from the back of your proportioning valve. This will give full line pressure to the tiny calipers and still not lock the rear brakes. My car hasn't had the spring in it since 1997. Here's what 13" Gen 2 brakes with race pads do at...
If it's any consolation - my DRBIII is having trouble communicating with my stock JTEC too. Maybe some capacitors on these boards are aging out. Who knows? 1996 is the earliest implementation of OBD-II in the US auto fleet.
I took the car in to have the toe set this morning before a track weekend at COTA. This spring was on the Driver's floor next to the side sill when I got back to the garage. Nothing feels funny or makes any odd noises.
It's possible it was from the brake pedal depressor, or the steering wheel...
The Gen 1s had different blocker rings in the synchros and require a Dexron III or better ATF fluid. The Gen 2s have carbon rings and can work well with GL4 multigrade synthetics for track or warm weather use.
There never was a Viper built in 2007.
Next, you can find plenty of discs available, but you need to confirm some basic counts and measurements:
1) diameter and thickness of the rotors
2) width of the disc face on the inboard side of the rotor
3) number of fasteners holding the rotor to the hat...
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