In the front I like about -1.2 to -1.4 camber, +6.0 caster and about 1/16" toe in.
Out back, I aim for about -0.9 camber, +1.0 caster and 1/8" toe in.
99.5% of alignment shops cannot measure rear caster and it is every bit as adjustable as the front end. Just have them start with the cams...
The only aluminum bits under the car are the oil pan, bellhousing, diff, wishbones, side sill covers and the transmission tunnel cover plate.
The floor pans are STEEL. Use a magnet and prove it to yourself.
That's not very bad damage and I'm almost positive the pans are steel. It could be bumped back out reasonably well in a few hours. Put the car up on 4 stands and remove the seats. Get yourself a selection of different length/width hardwood blocks and a 1-2kg sledge hammer. Begin from the edges...
I found this photo of Darrin Ellis's VRL Gen 2 car with Accusump. I don't know where the smaller line with the 180* elbow goes off to. The fitting at the rear of the engine is for the fire bottle, not connected to that line. Very nice plumbing work overall.
I believe you want to use the rear-most port on the block near the dipstick tube. It flows directly to the cam and mains. The thread looks to be 3/8" NPT and the sensor connector on mine is green. I would put the Accusump on the run side and the sensor on the branch.
It is possibe to have worn shocks, but you would typically see obvious leakage. I'm thinking you have either, maybe both of the following symptoms: 1) worn inner tie rods, 2) improper/unbalanced caster side-side in the rear.
This post is worthless without pictures, or diagrams.
If you're worried about cylinder walls, pour 1oz of Marvel oil in each cylinder and leave the plugs out. Use a 32mm socket on a breakover bar under the car and roll the engine over slowly by hand in neutral with some paper towels stuffed in...
The heater flow control valve was sourced from Denso of Japan. The hose nip ples are 9/16" (14mm) - NOT 5/8". You can get an OE Toyota Tacoma/4-Runner replacement from the late 90s to mid 2000s and just re-use the Viper bracket.
Yes Dan - Energy. No vibration issues with 2 previous T-56 boxes. I've had this bushing in the car for 25 years with a near-stock driveline. No damage to it.
Original (Trans #1) got the Ipsco shifter about 4500 miles ago. Had tunnel interference troubles until I bought the Ipsco rear x-member...
Here is where to look on the passenger frame rail. It is very hard to see, so use a small paint brush to clean the area under the headlight bucket next to the radiator support. The dark photo is on my 96, the second is from my 98 parts car. Only the last 2 letters and final 6 numeric digits are...
Stump DDS failed with the ability to look at a problem from both sides: if he had flipped the IPSCO crossmember over, it would lower the tail housing for just a bit for more shifter clearance, AND it allows you to use the 3/4" long bolt in a countersunk orientation to secure the bushing.
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