They likely never will...I'm not sure what the exact finishing process is on them, but they will never shine as bright as a non-clear coated polished aluminum wheel, and certainly not as bright as chrome.
Well, the Master Blaster isn't really "heated" per se...that the air gets hot is a function of how hot the motors get pumping the air, and that heat gets transferred to the air in the process of being used. I've seen identical designs marketed as livestock dryers...
I'm glad you said something about this...I've always wondered if I was doing something wrong, because I always had marring after I was done claying a car. It is never bad, and the lightest of polishes seems to get rid of it, but still...always made me wonder.
I've owned a Master Blaster for quite some time now (4-5 years at this point...can't remember), and the two most valuable things I've found are the rubber nozzle and the heated air. I used an electric (corded) leaf blower prior to it, and I always seemed to bump the plastic nozzle into the...
From reading your previous posts, you went through a lot of crap to get where you are today, but looking at those pics...man, it had to be at least somewhat worth it. Your car looks awesome.
The timing would be the issue...normally, you'd pull a few degrees of timing when running nitrous. Yes, you could get the AFR in line by changing the fuel jets, but you'd have to reliably trick the PCM into pulling the correct amount of timing. Race gas might help, but it would be at the...
Here...read this article:
http://www.hotrod.com/techfaq/hrdp_0405_chassis_dyno_guide/viewall.html
4th gear is 1:1...it stays 1:1 regardless of rear axle ratio. That's why the rear axle ratio is a variable input for any dyno...if you told the dyno it was a 3.07 and you really had 3.55s...
You are right, but they have to make them cheap enough for mass production, and also reliable enough to get through at least the powertrain warranty, and longer if the company that goes this route doesn't want to look like they put out engines that die as soon as the warranty is up.
Well, if a Gen IV is an S2000 with a V-10, then a Gen V is an S2000 with a V-10 and a nice interior. You are right...there's definitely a different vibe in here, and that doesn't appear to be a good thing.
Where exactly would you suggest a cutout be installed on a side-exhaust Viper? There's just no room due to how it is routed.
You can see where it runs down the side sills in the pic above, but that is because the body panels that cover it have been taken off.
And both examples...
The clunkiness you aren't seeing (but is still there) is being absorbed by the torque converter.
Additionally, the only Challengers I see offering Chrysler's MDS are automatics, not manuals.
http://www.dodge.com/en/performance/2013/
The dual mode exhaust makes sense on the Vette because you can easily bypass the mufflers with the layout they have chosen. On a Viper, bypassing the muffler really isn't an option, at least not with the current configuration. If they ran the exhaust out the back, it could be an option.
AFM...
The downside? Heat generated, and extra weight to try and dissipate said heat. Look no further than the curb weight difference between a ZR1 and ZO6 Vette, or a ZL1 vs. Z/28 (or SS) Camaro, etc.
You don't get something for nothing.
I'm still waiting for the inevitable "must be DOHC"...
Are they planning on replacing the oil cooler? I'd probably go ahead and have that done in case any junk from the engine made its way into the oil, and possibly the cooler. The last thing I'd want is little pieces of metal from the old oil cooler circulating into my brand new engine...
If it is the lines, I'd replace everything. If you want to go aftermarket, I'd go with the ones from Dan Lesser (Viper Specialty):
http://viperspecialtyperformance.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22_34&products_id=196
I replaced mine with these...not the easiest install in the world...
The top cover around the steering column directly behind the steering wheel comes off...I can't remember if it has a couple of screws or not (I think it does)...after you get that off, it should be right there.
I don't know how common it is, but it seems right in line with the results I've seen from similar combos. I just know which car this is since the owner frequents another forum I'm on (LS1Tech), which is where I first saw the video.
Yes, you need this to display the A/F ratio based on the fuel you are running, but they still all measure in lambda. In other words, the sensor only knows lambda, and the box is doing the calculation after that measurement to display the A/F ratio based on the user's input of what they think...
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