The OE sub can be removed from inside the viper, no need to remove the bulkhead. The grille just pulls out, no screws. Remove it with a smallish screwdriver or plastic prying tool. The sub and it's plastic mounting ring are held in with 4 screws. It has a wiring clip (neg and pos).
This topic has been beat to death already on this forum.
MsViper…Here’s a tip on how to find information on this forum…open up a GOOGLE search window and type:
site:forums.viperclub.org ?????
????? is whatever you want information about
example: site:forums.viperclub.org battery tender...
The longer you keep on the path, the easier it'll be, but it'll never be EASY. Don't try to be perfect. Don't beat yourself up too much for falling off the wagon a little...just get back on and stay on for days/weeks/months. Good luck!
By the way...there are haters out there for anything aftermarket that you want to do to your viper...screw them...if you like it, then that's good enough.
I just looked at the mounting instructions. They refer to an adhesive promoter and the pictures look like an adhesive is used between the edge of the grills and the fascia between the support brackets. The screw at the top and the support brackets would be used as more durable connections...
You're probably not going t find a lot of help. I've never seen these on a viper (pictures or in person). What seems to be the problem? Do you have pictures of the issues?
Wow...three and a half bills...reminds me of a thread over on the Alley where this guy was having health issues and was going to see the doctor again in a week or so...well, he didn't make it to the appointment. That kind of weight can cause a lot of health issues. Good luck with the twinkie...
Has any coolant spewed out of the overflow bottle in the front fascia. High temp readings and some overflow were my issues that led to replacing the water pump. Here is my thread...
Coolant leak...
Wow...I mean WOW...I don't know who or what kratedisease is, but WOW! Been here 2 months and making a lot of friends. Please join the Viper Alley site. You'll enjoy yourself a lot more over there...promise.
My temp periodically climbs to match your picture...usually when no air is getting to the front of the viper. It goes back down once I'm in clean air with my foot on the gas. I don't get worried until it gets over the final notch. I was having heat problems a while back, but it turned out to...
It takes a nice little bit of down force to get it to close all the way. What you are referring to happens when you don't use enough force. You can't go from the almost closed stage to closed...you have to re-pop the hood and start again.
Here's what the overflow bottle looks like in the front fascia (all cleaned up, it was green when I first saw it)...
Here’s my old (top) and new (bottom) water pump…
Here’s the water pump impeller issue…
It's definitely not unusual for the temperature to get in that range in bumper to bumper traffic. The fan does not run after the ignition is turned off. I have the Roe Racing - Dodge Viper Fan Control Kit, 1996-2002 Dodge Viper GTS and 1997-2002 RT/10. It's adjustable and cycles the radiator...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.