I mean, there would be some pressure in return lines, but it should be significantly less than what would be on the feed side. Return lines go to the back of the reservoir and are held on with simple spring clamps, so I would guess that they would only have a couple psi in them, not the 100+...
The return lines shouldn't be under pressure, so that's a bit odd to start with. I'm surprised it would rupture the line and not just blow it off the pipe bead at the clamp, unless we're talking different hoses. There should be 5 total hoses in the system if I remember correctly:
1. High...
I don't know anything about that kit, but any chance something could have been installed backwards? Only thing that comes to mind for me if something is all the way at the end of its adjustment. Or if there is a difference between driver and passenger and the wrong kit was installed?
That's kind of where I am (assuming I ever wanted to really go all out on my car at least). I have the same problem on my G3 Hemi in my Dart. Any of the newer heads for it mean changing everything attached to them, which adds up pretty quickly. I've seen some pretty dang good results with...
Yeah, I have a feeling it wouldn't be incredibly Viper specific, but since they don't seem to put numbers on them either way it would mean a fun search to try to find any more info. I did notice on mine that there is a stop actually built into the top of the housing that the coupler between the...
I've done my driver side so far, but my passenger side is probably due before too long one of these days. It makes a bit of an interesting thunk when it first starts going down, but has kept working fine so far, so fingers crossed.
Ah, okay. I think I remember seeing that before as well on the housing. I agree the diagram seems wrong and appears to have changed over the years to correct it. I'll have to do some checks for the housing part number and see what I can find. I thought I remember finding it in the past...
I didn't get the whole thing out when I tried to fix it before. There was enough of a stub sticking out that I tried to epoxy the end back on, but it wasn't a clean break, so it was hard to get it lined back up correctly. The problem is there are 4 different doors in the box as I understand it...
Several years ago the shaft of the blend door on my HVAC box twisted off on my 04. I tried to epoxy it back together, but it's a pretty soft plastic and I don't think I got it clocked correctly as the A/C just doesn't blow as cold anymore and the heater blows pretty hot from even as low as 1/4...
Sure, feel free to list it. We used to have a classified section, but so much of that has moved to Facebook that we just sort of went that way. People still throw stuff up on the forums from time to time though, so I don't see a problem with it. As long as people aren't spamming listing and...
I was thinking the only real issue with the setup was tuning, not necessarily physical installation, though I'm not as well versed on the earlier cars. At least that was my main impression for why they never offered the kit for gen 1s at the time.
You might be able to get your existing top recovered. I looked into that a while back on my 04. I had some parts where the heat bond that kept two panels together was starting to come loose. I believe the material is made by Haartz (Twillfast II based on their website search). I talked with...
The Viper never really had much in the way of options, so I'd be hesitant to think they would have offered different "regular" seatbelts. I thought they might have offered a full racing harness for stuff like the ACR, though I don't recall if they even went that far or just put the anchors in...
I'm not sure 3D printing quite suits something like a clear lens yet. Maybe you could get there with post processing on a resin print, but I think layer lines are still sort of an issue. That being said, I'm pretty sure you could make a replacement cover with something as simple as vacuum...
Funny story, but it's actually not, lol. It was a carb when I started, but what is in that picture is a 4 barrel throttle body that looks like a carb. Got it in a package deal with the Megasquirt and a bunch of other stuff. The setup I bought was originally installed on a 340 and the guy took...
The earlier gen 1s were known for leaking from the head gaskets over time. They were the older paper style, not the modern MLS metal ones. Sitting around seemed to cause it more than anything, but I think it was more typical to see it leak down the side of the engine block than into the valley...
Not the most recent pictures, but here are a couple I've got handy at least. Outside still pretty much looks the same, but I've since redone the wiring on the engine bay a little bit. The interior is decently different now as well as I went to a set of Genesis Couple seats I got from a...
Huh, that's pretty interesting. The Megasquirt on my 67 Dart does gear position calculation based on speed and rpm as well for things like boost by gear and I'm sure some other features. I only use it for datalogging as I don't have boost on my car, but neat to see how it can be used in other...
I believe that is just an accessory plug for Dodge radios in general. So things like Sirius, CD changes, etc. use it if it's the plug I'm thinking of. Do the coupes have CD changers in the back? I know the convertibles don't, but could see one in a coupe without too much difficulty. I'm not...
The Viper uses an amplified antenna in the windshield, so it would need power at least, similar to a retractable antenna on other cars. A lot of aftermarket radios call that a "amp" or "trigger" wire. Though since the Viper has as amp as well I don't know off the top of my head if the signal...
I wouldn't think so. Hall sensors are basically just switches and most are fairly tolerant of voltage, though don't take that as gospel. Looking at the wires I'd go off your original assessment of gauge as a starting point. To me it looks like the red, yellow, and blue wires are the thicker...
The horn chirp on lock/unlock is configurable, so I wouldn't worry too much about that one at the moment at least. Also, probably a stupid question, but I know it catches a lot of people when they first get in my car. You are trying to use the switches on the door to lock/unlock things...
Bedding or incompatible compounds between whatever was on the rotor and your new pad would be my first guess, but that's just based off of what I've read about brakes. Aggressive pads are supposed to wear faster, but I'd agree that just an hour of track time is way faster than what seems...
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