Ok so an update to this saga. I replaced the fuses in my multimeter and hooked it back up. I have determined the faulty circuit to be the 30amp fuse in position number 13 under the hood. With my multimeter on the 200m scale, my draw with the car off and everything shut down was 170mA with this...
The car is a 99 GTS with headers, exhaust, smooth tubes, coilovers, Stoptech brakes all around, and nothing more. All of the electronics are 100% stock.
And another update. Changed the fuse in the multimeter and didn't see more than ~22 milliamps. This is an acceptable level of draw. Then, I heard something cycle in the car and the number shot up so far that I needed to change the scale on my multimeter. By the time I changed the scale and got...
I never leave the car in either state, but I do not see a hood open switch anywhere when looking around under the hood. Can you tell me where it is?
I went to perform the draw test today and I cannot get my amp meter to show any amps at all when I connect the leads. I can only assume that...
^ that sounds like a logical way for some baby steps in the right direction. I will perform this on the car today and see what I come up with. Thanks man.
Battery is an Optima Redtop and is 1 month old. I didn't drive the car for about 8 days and it killed the battery. I removed it and put it on a trickle charged and brought her back up to full capacity. Car cranked up like it never had before. Since then, it has slowly been draining back down...
So my car is to the point that it will kill a fresh battery in about 7 to 10 days if the car is not driven. The car is stored with everything turned off and the alarm NOT armed. I went and had the battery and alternator tested, and got the following diagnosis.
In researching that...
I gotcha. I was planning on using ScanXL for my logging software for the SCT, but it is interesting to note that the Vec can log...I didn't know that. If you turn off your LTFT's in the SCT, the tune shouldn't be altered from a WOT fueling point of view. The rest of your fueling should be...
My car is a 99 GTS with 11k miles. It have had this front end pop since I purchased the car and it does it when I am almost at full lock turning right(forward or reverse), but not all the time. It will also do it every now and then when I am turning left at full lock. I can feel the pop in...
You sound like me. I bought my 99 to TT as well and just paid for the RSI TT Street kit a few weeks ago. Only had the car for about 5 months, but I don't like wasting time lol. I too enjoy the hell out of the car with just headers and exhaust, but I purchased the car because of its amazing...
^ Wow, my install was completely uneventful. I had the pulley off the shaft within minutes are getting the puller on it. IPSCO pulley and bracket went back on with no issues as well.
Crazy how these installs can vary so much.
Correct, the short term trims are trended to form the long term trims. With Vettes, these long term trims would affect you PE(WOT) open loop fueling by the percentage they are trending at when WOT is performed. I would assume the Viper is the same way.
708 cam? If so, it is nothing but cam surge. Mine does the same thing as will all other 708 cars.
Your other symptom sounds like your ecu dancing with the fuel mixture or something.
Problem solved. The problem wasn't the position of the middle latch, it was the fact that it needed about an 1/8th inch spacer. The door was catching right at the end of the bar and binding on it.
So, in a nutshell, this door needed the towel method and spacers for both the bottom "guide"...
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