Pop off relay and jump it like you did. Go drive the car. If that fixes it, then you can figure out what is causing the relay to not work (I had that problem with a prior car, but sold before fixing it).
GEN 5 Viper Fitment
Antigravity Batteries H5 Battery
40Ah model = 1500 CCA
15.2 lbs
Remote jump start
LxWxH: 9.5 x 7 x 7.5 inches
Part No. AG-H5-40-RS
I have Antigravity Batteries (AG) in my personal cars. Dropping weight is nice from a performance & mpg standpoint (and installation) and the...
Red are almost always the ROE tubes which are straight hose and angle cut ends.
The smooth tubes with the factory ACR bend and clamps are available here:
https://reidperformance.com/collections/viper/products/viper-smooth-tube-intake
I recently had a similar vibration. It would occur for a few seconds after on-throttle 4th shift to 6th light throttle. Went over the entire driveline and found the ball joints were bad. I swapped out the upper an lower (complete car) to Howe and so far the vibration is gone.
For the street there really is no wrong option. BC is probably the most common for street use because of the low price and ability to control the ride height independently of the spring preload.
KW has the V5 for the GEN5, but that is $12k (USD) and overkill for the street.
MCS makes a nice...
No video of it.
It was not a dramatic difference in sound on a '96 (cast manifolds) out of the back of the car, but it was noticeable out of the front. So your '99 likely will not make a big difference sound wise with the stock catback, there will be more header ting out of the front. Out of...
I did ARH with stock catback and it was nice. Nice power bump, made good noise but not loud and had the tinging from headers. Just use a 3"-2.5" reducer.
I ran ARH headers on my GEN2 with stock mufflers and it sounded nice, had good power, dropped a bunch of weight weight and was very reasonable in the sound department. On a GEN1 I think that would be a good setup because it would make more power than post-header exhaust changes and not be...
Just went through a motor rebuild from a valve seat drop, so in the same boat as you but with many more needle bearings involved and a wiped camp. I kept the kissed piston as it was minor as I really did not want to tear down the entire motor and it was not necessary. Honestly, the car is so...
If you are not driving the car and want to bring tires in the house, why not simply put it on jack stands for the winter? It would be a lot easier than hunting down wheels and tires for the sole purpose of storage.
Go polyurethane. Does not add any NVH to the car, simply makes the shifting more precise. I have a few in stock.
https://reidperformance.com/collections/viper/products/viper-polyurethane-transmission-mount
If you go poly, do not use the included spacer. I suggest drilling out the crossmember...
Note for anyone installing ES, do not use the spacers included with the mount. They would definitely cause issues with clearance.
Here is the ES mount:
https://reidperformance.com/collections/viper/products/viper-polyurethane-transmission-mount
Common issue as engine and trans mounts can shift the driveline. The IPSCO crossmember is the easiest way to remedy it.
Otherwise, remove the transmission crossmember and oval out the mounting hole, then shift the trans mount to the left and tighten. This is a good time to swap to a...
Just looked through the listing. Unless you are trying to make this a concourse car or just grabbing parts to throw in boxes to have for the future, do not waste your time changing it. The car is set to be a much better driver than stock.
If you want 2 piece slotted rotors for the rear, I have...
If you want a McLeod, I have an RXT from my car that needs the discs recovered (McLeod charges $360 for the service). Did not know my car had it until I went to pick up the car & used parts from the shop after they changed the clutch. Open to offers.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/225581681261
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