FREE - need gone. Pics at CL: https://post.craigslist.org/manage/6928292042?action=display&go=display
If you even remotely look like a scrapper, don't even think about it...
Long story short: mine got run over.
Dimensions: 6-1/4 x 3 x 1-1/4 with a small notch at a corner.
Hoping to leave NV Sunday driving car home to PA - hoping not to resort to Saran Wrap.... (car does not have hood part of the inner fenders)
Thanks
https://imgur.com/a/ox1NCJ7
Parts were removed from 1999 to 2001 and have been on the shelf since:
$150 Exhaust manifolds
$200 Stock cam
$200 Stock Rotors Set
$150 Flywheel
$150 Clutch & Pressure Plate
$350 Stock exhaust cut in pieces for removal
also 4 335/30r18 Michelin MXX3's 2 on the wear bars but not bald, 2 with...
Anyone? My FSM's are with the car in NV and I'd like to get some idea what I'm up against.
EXAMPLE: "You have to pull the dash most likely," would mean I'm not going to fix it.
Looks like MoparPartsGiant shows parts manual pics... from what I can see, there are 2 vacuum actuators...
Seems each generation has a unique connector type. (this sounds very problematic if I need extensions for my long tube headers.)
Car in NV and I'm in PA and would like to have parts mail ordered and waiting for me when I show up. I was hoping to order from a dealer that gives discount rather...
I'm in PA and will be fixing car in NV so just trying to some homework.
Blower motor sounds like it is running properly
Proper vents active for Heat and AC but flow is very low
No sound of "rushing air" in high speed
If I had to guess:
Something restricting the blower inlet
Blower cage fan is...
I have headers and wonder if I should get Cable Extensions for the front OE O2's or just make up the distance with soldered wire?
With extensions, now 2 connector integrities required for good signal. Soldering is the BEST. ....but soldering is a RPITA....
EDIT: OH GREAT: "Oxigen travels...
I have no cats, so I think junk rear O2's is a non-issue, but the fronts have to be proper.
I was thinking of Woodhouse.
There are dozens of places like allmoparparts, dodgeparts, moparonlineparts, factorychryslerparts, etc. etc. ad infinitum that I wouldn't trust to get true OE and not MOPAR...
Yes, through the hatch is how you get in in all circumstances since the manual door release over-rides everything.
Only problem is roll bar is over the latch - there is room to operate the latch but now very difficult to even find and contort to operate.
Friend has to move car, KeyFob not opening car. Need to explain how to get in through back window.
Reason I need pic is that the roll bar makes it virtually impossible to reach or see the latch. Just a pic would suffice. I thought it would be an easy internet search but NOTHING - I'm...
BARO is probably used to establish backpressure since manifold pressure needs no further characterization. The table is linear and consists of two points - so I'm been told. It is typically disabled for boosted cars which I don't understand.
WARNING: Tirade follows:
Although Kalifornia is notorious, I'm sad to say it is us, We The People who are to blame.
We blabber that we love Freedom and Liberty yet cannot explain what that actually means.
Ironically, the Chinese do - and it can be explained with a single word:
TOLERANCE...
There appears to be more JTEC into on jeep forums(!)
I'm leaning towards a "send PCM in" tune from an outfit that has the knowledge to directly program w/o using SCT, etc. - at least that is what I believe can be done and is the best approach. There was some talk that SCT does not flash memory...
Amazingly, the vast portion of JTEC info is on Jeep forums! Jeep guys are a different class - they just don't have the wealth that people who bot new Vipers have. So they try to do everything themselves. JTEC woes on those forums are very depressing. There was some mention that only the 1996...
Well, it surely can't be people quit modding them...
I don't understand why AEM dropped the V1 P&P Viper ECU given the horrible difficulties of programming JTEC.
Re: that old Craftsman ratchet: I had a 3/8 swivel head fail and Sears replaced it with the cheapest one they had - in fact, they had a box of the under the cash register since the cheap ones fail all the time. They do make a premium ratchet that is actually comparable to the old one, however...
Wow, just found this thread. I did some business with Norm back around 2000.
Norm would really go the extra mile.
...and he let me borrow his Viper (!)
An UPDATE and a couple QUESTIONS...
UPDATE:
DRBIII won't communicate with Viper - says I need to use the correct Super Card. Friend's "Fat Tablet" Snap-On did communicate.
What to do.... I guess try DRBIII on another car????
WHAT IS BARO USED FOR?:
Why does Roe have tunes for different...
I think I have my first firing solution:
Correct all sensor/wiring issues with car.
Install Widebands and a Scan Gauge II (timing, TPS, and 2 others - need IAC but may not be an available parameter)
Dyno pull with A/F (no timing data since that is basically what a canned tune chooses for you)...
Steve-Indy, Who or what is Prefix?
Regarding Dan, I hate taking up a tuner's valuable time.
I am in the market for a canned tune and specifically not a custom tune - my car has 85k on it and I would not 100% certify that a custom tune would be tuning out some wonky sensor that's not...
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