No more decal pop.
Went into limp mode numerous times (only after hitting rev limiter a couple of times), but a new cam senor is suppose to fix this (haven't been on track since new cam sensor so I won't know for sure).
Try to run Kumho XS if you don't want to run another set of tires and wheel just for autox. Do a search around here and you'll find more comments about them.
I'm running 315/30-18 Kumho XS in the front for the street and days when I feel lazy (don't want to hassle changing tires) at the track. No rub and pretty well balanced but car still pushes a bit at 10/10th. Here's a picture:
I also run 335/30-18 Hoosier A6's once in a while, and boy even...
Finally, I mean after two and a half years, I finally broke down and got those XS tires. Forget those 295 fronts, this is time to go wider so I ordered wider 18x11 fronts for the 315/30-18 tires and I'm happy to report there's no rub whatsoever. Wheels are Forgelines from Partsrack who btw has...
Tired a 5MM spacer already and the wheels not only sticks out too far but still rubs a little. Since I only put the 13" wide wheels on for autox and during autox, I never need to turn full lock, the only time the front wheels rub is at full lock, if I can't shave off a little of the sway bar...
I run 18x13" OZ wheels for autox and found even though the 335-18 A6 on the OZ rims clears the front fenders just fine, the OZ's rub against the front sway bar slightly at full lock. And I wonder if the ACR's front sway bars are solid and if it is okay to put a small notch in it to clear the...
Mike,
The CEL never came back on after it went away but it didn't help my runs as I was short shifting to make sure I stayed away from the redline. I'll eventually talk to Dan or Mark but just wanted to see what others are experiencing first.
I've already switched back to the factory thermostat but the Mopar ECU is still so overly protective and would go into limp mode if I hit the rev limited for longer than say just a split second. Sometimes while on track and right before or while at a turn, I prefer not to upshift and hit the...
For a toy, I'd get an ACR but if you need to drive the car more for daily duty (even not daily), then I'd get the GT-R. Maintenance on my ACR has been almost nothing and it practically leaves everything else smelling its exhaust on the track. And would win hands down against the GT-R in the...
Once the 2" lowering kit is installed, there're plenty of room. I, myself had a Cobra racing seat installed directly on the floor board and that gave even more room. I now find the driving position of the Viper PERFECT, in fact even though it is tighter in the way that it is narrower than the...
+1. I've spent about $10K of aftermarket mods on the ACR and about $20K of mods on the FGT and while the ACR is fast, the FGT is scary fast. It is not even close in the straight line speed department. Just $.02 from someone who owns both, track both, has spun both, and I'll rest my case.
I also own both a FGT and an ACR, both purchased new but I have to disagree that the Viper performs a better than the FGT. I have a little track experience with both and would give the ACR a slight advantage on certain tracks but an unmodded GT definitely ride better (a lot less bouncy) and...
OP says in his first post that the car will be fixed by the GT Guys and the GT Guys are the best guys in the country to work on the GT. Why so? They were employees of Ford and were assigned to work on the GT development project, in other words, they helped create the GT in the first place...
I plan on keeping my GT forever so if you are like me and not buying it for investment purposes, then go for it. You'll get to enjoy the car for a lifetime (or a very long time). The stock bottom end in that "salvage" car is good for 1000+ reliable HP. Furthermore, the GT Guys Ron and Dennis...
Yes DC Performance initialized the sensors for me and it worked good for about a month and then the light started coming on intermittently. Usually at which PSI will the light come on and since I have a regular ODBII code reader, will the code give indication of which wheel is triggering the alarm?
I have a similar problem w/ the SSR's that I got with the TPMS. The warn light would come on 75% of the time, even though I make sure I have more than 30 pounds in all four tires. The light doesn't stay lit all the time, just on and off every other drives or so. It is driving me nuts but the...
Just got a set of black OZ Racing wheels for the track and they look great. I'm running the 18" SSR's for the street but the V700 Kumho's in 335 widths just look so anemic so I've been toying with the idea of 315/30-18 Kumho XS on the 18x11 OZ wheels for the front and run 345/30-19 XS on OEM...
The still pushes a little with 30/28 cold starting PSI and full soft/full soft+2 on Moton Clubsport. But I only have -2 deg. camber and will go for at least -2.5 before next event. I barely hit 3rd gear at last weekend's event so no feedback on the fender guard but I doubt they would adversely...
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