Their commercials have conned me into calling them 2 times and both times their premiums for the exact same coverage vs. AAA have been more than double.
Every time their excuse was that their rates are not competitive in my area, yet they still advertise on local tv.
:clap:
Something is causing your car to over-boost, and the AEM unit is protecting your motor from destroying itself. This is a feature which would have been setup by your tuner.
The RPM that its happening at is the tattle tale, lower in each gear cause boost would come on sooner with each...
By budget I mean that you dont have a permanent 4-5 man crew constantly pulling out your Lenco trans and adjusting your clutch to the track after every pass.
If you are looking for ultimate 1/4 mile performance a good 9" is your best bet, but you also need to install it properly with the right geometry.
And a power glide is your best friend for 1/4 mile racing on a budget, just remember its the torque converter that deserves the most attention $$$...
I don't believe a zebra can change its stripes, right now everything is going well for this dirt bag lots of investor money to through around etc, etc...
Give him some time and when that money starts drying up, he WILL go back to screwing his customers.
Anyone that is giving this guy his money...
The wear looks normal but all the plugs look very lean.
Something else all those tiny little dots all over the plug are they pit marks or some sort of buildup, cant tell from the pictures.
When was the last time you change fuel filter? You have no cats, so what are you using to tell the...
That is much too lean, these motors do not like being there. They start to run hot, stumble, miss, etc..
Driving down the highway you should never be leaner than 14:1 your car will thank you if you keep it in the mid to hi 13's, and under heavy load hi 11's-low 12's if you are NA.
If your looking for good straight line acceleration and good cornering I would suggest stock specs.
I have tried several different specs, and tbh on the next session it will be back to stock specs.
This is all a mater of personal preference, for me stock gearing is best other prefer to spin tires every time they hit the gas.
Doubt there is any need for a new diff, my suggestion would be to take the rear end out and send it or take it to someone that rebuilds them. Cost should be cheap if...
If its that loud I highly doubt its the fluid. At this point you probably have many damaged/missing teeth on the rear end.
Just went through this several times with another member on this board, the first time it started acting up it was the sound like yours. We all thought it was trans as...
Torco(spelling?) supposedly makes a good octane booster, know a guy who actually bothered to mix it as instructed, then took a sample and sent it to a lab to get analyzed. It worked fairly well I would say cause he has been their best customer ever since. Don't quote me on this but I believe...
Jack B is 100% correct in his comments, this dyno graph means nothing you might as well draw one with a crayon.
It is unfortunate that you seem to not want to listen or understand his points.
No reason to have your car be anywhere near high 12's for a/f, when my car was NA there was no power gained being leaner than 12:1 and at high rpm 11.9:1.
You cant just add 2 degrees across the entire rpm band viper motors have detonation problems at peak torque.
What are you using for...
Who did the tune?
That looks like a lot of detonation, which would explain your heat issues.
Whats the air/fuel? How many degrees of advance at the various rpms?
I would NOT be driving that car right now.
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