'04 SRT-10 Power Steering Leak

[CHAOS]

Is the power steering hose/pump a weak part on a very lightly used 18,000 miles 2004 Viper? I noticed a small leak that just started on my garage floor, the stealership wants $1,100 to fix. I am thinking I could buy a 2 post lift, a hose and pump for about the same. Any advice? How about the $6 power steering leak fixer?

 

[Canyon707]

yes it is all the lines to the steering, fan pump. and tranny cooler have poor quality fittings I had to replace every one of them. As for the 6 dollar fix I would just replace the hoses. If you not under any warranty spend some money and get braided lines.

 

[MikeT]

Chaos,
I bought my '03 in August with only 2600miles on it. I noticed it was leaking during my pre-purchase inspection of it-a few drops of fluid landing on the a/c compressor below. The dealer gave me an allowance to get it fixed. I figured since it was sitting so long with little use, that it might even stop leaking once I drove it a bit. Not so-it actually got worse..and quickly...on my 40 mile drive home I must have emptied half the reservoir. After my mechanic diagnosed the cause, he found it was a seal in the pump where it joins the reservoir. I ended up replacing the p/s pump unit, but for much less than you were quoted. I had all fluids in the car changed during the same visit, but I believe the pump replacement was ~$500 or so. Absolutely no probs since, it's now dry as a bone. That pump must be a weak spot on these Gen 3's.
Mike T

 

[Black Moon]

What's leaking? Pump, resevoir, or one of the several hoses?

 

[Darbgnik]

Have a peak at all the fittings in the system. Seems the o-rings on the hoses are a weak link. ***** that you have to buy new lines for the fix. They are kinda pricey for what they are, And I know there is at least one line, where one of the fittings is sold separately.

Once you remove the airbox, I think all the lines are easily accessible if I remember correctly. The top pressure hose from the pump to the fan is for sure.

If you grab the line and try to give it a wiggle, and it moves in the fitting, it's probably a goner.

 

[Viper Specialty]

What is leaking? That is the question of the day!

 

[labtec]

Is the power steering hose/pump a weak part on a very lightly used 18,000 miles 2004 Viper? I noticed a small leak that just started on my garage floor, the stealership wants $1,100 to fix. I am thinking I could buy a 2 post lift, a hose and pump for about the same. Any advice? How about the $6 power steering leak fixer?

check the other thread @ http://forums.viperclub.org/srt10-srt10-coupe-discussions/635671-power-steering-troubles.html pay particular attention to the second connector part number. It is listed incorrectly from Dodge. The correct part number should be 52088914AA.

 

[CHAOS]

I have been away for a while, living in Afghanistan and now need to resurrect my thread.

I have had 17 oil changes on my car and the only time I didnt pop the hood and check for oil is when I brought it to a place that should be capable of properly changing my oil with out directly naming this place in Vero Beach that sells cars of a similar make. I brought the car to get the oil changed and $442 later had oil and rear differential fluid changed. While on the lift at our local dealership I noticed, A. The blocks were not screwed out and the lift points were crushing the bottom of the front fenders, and the answer was, "it's suppose to be like that.... B. I noticed power steering fluid, a lot, not my normal drip, on the PS pump and was told, yeah, we just added fluid and must have spilled some.... C. saw an awful lot of "bugs" on the windshield after driving down to West Palm the next week from Vero Beach and when I stopped realized it was oil, there was no dipstick in my oil hole, oh, and I picked up new windshield wipers the same day I left, how many Viper dipsticks are left laying around anyway, not knowing how much oil was left I had it changed at a Jiffy lube and they said about 5 quarts came out (no check engine or warning light either, strange).... D. On the return ride about a mile from my house there was a squealing sound from the engine, and when I stopped, power steering fluid completely empty and fluid all over the engine and front D/S wheel well, guess they did not over fill the reservoir but there was an impending failure about to happen....

Anyway, are there any tips on how difficult it will be with clearances and all for replacing the power steering pump someone may offer or should I just fill it up and get a local shop the swap it out?

 

[Mamba52]

Are you sure it's not your fan? This happened too me. Replaced the hydraulic fan.

 

[CHAOS]

I have to get under it and into it to be sure, I plan on taking it apart one day this week. I am just wondering how tough the putting back together is going to be before I get started. I read connecting the hoses back is difficult, it also looks like to radiator hose may need to come off.

 

[Sonoman]

See if you can identify the source of the leak and post back on here. I've changed the PS lines and while not difficult, the fittings are a bit tricky and expensive. Never removed either radiator hose for this. You might consider picking up a service manual for the car... sometimes used ones on Ebay are your cheapest bet. Also, if you have substantial amounts of PS fluid leaking out, it can and often does saturate the serpentine belt, which should probably then be replaced (around $30 at VPA). Make sure the leak is fixed and all the pulleys are clean/free of fluid if you do replace the belt.

 

[firefighter196]

does anyone know where you can buy just the fittings they seam to be a special tread, the shop near me can build the lines but needs the connectors

 

[steve911]

Unlike the Gen 1,2 & 4 engines, the Gen 3's pump has to work twice as hard because not only does it work the rack but it also runs the radiator fan.

The pump guts are identical to the others but Dodge attempted to get the most out of the pump by making the pump inputport from the reservoir larger in Diameter and spinning it faster (i.e. smaller Dia. pulley).

What's leaking? Pump, resevoir, or one of the several hoses?

 

[CHAOS]

I cant find any obvious leaks but in 45 miles I went through a reservoir of fluid and it sprayed all over the front drivers side wheel well so every thing was wet and hard to tell. I am trying to get a list of stuff to order so it all arrives at one time and maybe this will help someone else. By my guessing I need, new PS lines (there are three that connect to the reservoir and pump, one bolt in on the pump and two spring bands on the reservoir), belt due to fluid spray, 4 cans of brake cleaner, aluminum wheel cleaner, PS pump, rubber gloves, 13/16 open end wrench for pressure line, channel lock pliers for hose spring bands, 15MM wrench for removing belt, and an o-ring or gasket for reservoir to pump seal. I have not separated the two yet, not sure what this looks like. The manual says that the pulley is not reusable...

anyone have success reusing the $250 pulley?

If you have done this before let me know what I missed, thanks!


OK, power steering pump is out and the most difficult part was figuring out the A/C clutch wire connector. It pulls out from the top, push on the bottom until enough is showing to get a grip and then pull it out from the top, when out it looks like a treadmill key. The belt is removed by a 15MM wrench, push clockwise on the tensioner (one on the left) until the belt is loose. Anyway, there are two cheap ass spring bands for the reservoir hoses which just twist back and forth a little to loosen then they come off easy. They are easier to get off once the pump and reservoir mounting bolts are out and you have some room on the back. The pressure line is pretty easy to get out with a 13/16" open end wrench then three mounting bolts, two on the left and one on the right.

 

[Sonoman]

Most likely there is only one point of leakage. If you clean everything up and start the car, use a bright light and you should be able to see it. Possibly have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while it sits there running. I personally would not change all the P/S hoses on an 18k mile car at this point; I would just replace the one that is leaking (if any). Some lines are just returns and not under much pressure. You can create new leaks and introduce foreign particle contamination by randomly changing these hoses.

But I guess it's too late now since the pump is already removed?

Often the leak can be just a low volume drip, but upon contact with the spinning pulleys the fluid gets distributed all over the engine compartment. Most common leak points seem to be the high pressure line to the fan (which connects to the P/S pump facing straight up near the thermostat area), and also the large o-ring gasket between the pump and the fluid reservoir (which is a low cost, replaceable part).

Make sure to use ATF+4 and not Power Steering fluid (factory fill on 2004 and later is ATF+4).

Also, most all brake cleaners are now just acetone, and not the greatest for painted surfaces and the electrical-taped wiring under your hood. I actually had much better luck with starting fluid (which is liquid ether) as a materials-friendly degreaser, but be careful of any open flames and use in a well ventilated area.

 

[CHAOS]

I have had a small leak but the whole reservoir emptied on my last time out so it definitely is worse and I would consider it a catastrophic failure of something, pump or lines.

The car was at the dealership getting the fluids changed and when the car was on the lift I saw alot of fluid on the a/c compressor. They said they just filled the PS fluid and it overflowed so not to worry about it. I should have worried about it, the reservoir went empty and it was squealing pretty bad on the last 5 miles before i got home after a 140 mile trip.

I agree completely on if it aint broke dont fix it. The low pressure lines are not leaking and I dont plan on doing anything with them at this point.

Right now only one line is "suspect" and that is the high pressure power steering pump to fan line but the one crappy line from dodge is only slightly less than the two modified lines from JTS Venom Performance and this will give me a back up if the other starts to leak.

The PS pump seals may or may not be leaking but after running it with no fluid and the low cost of replacing I may as well just drop in a new one.

Lastly the pump to reservoir 0-ring may be the culprit which is only $7 bucks, plus $15 shipping!! I am hoping to take it apart and find a viton o-ring for .35 cents.

I will post any findings for someones future reference

 

[CHAOS]

Ok, here is a funny story. I went to get power steering fluid and the part store called a Dodge dealer in Fort Pierce, they said it takes a "special" ATF+4 fluid and not power steering. I was closer to VB Dodge and as much as I didn't want to go there... Anyway, they said it takes regular PS fluid. I called down to FP Dodge and asked why they thought it took A special fluid +4 and the response was both parts counters saying I was foolish to listen to the other and the "other"was incompetent. So, my conclusion is,

A. Both are right
B. Neither are right
C. One is right
D. The "other" one is right

Does anyone know the real answer or does it really just not matter? I do have some old peanut oil from the turkey fryer that has about the same consistency and could save $50 bucks...

 

[tbsviper]

I don't know but sonoman in a prior post said use ATF+4. Would a 04 mamba have this problem since they are speeeecial! Just kidding but I hope not. My engine is pretty clean right now.

 

[Steve-Indy]

CHAOS, sadly the 04-06 Service Manuals are incorrect...as are the CD's...NOT a local dealer's fault. Every Viper (at least in the US) from 2004 through 2006 and 2008 through 2010 came with ATF+4 in the power steering reservoir. 03 Vipers came with the old P/S fluid...and many experienced/knowledgable techs have changed them over to ATF+4 with no adverse results. What is the color of the fluid in YOUR car?? And, YES, I have sampled MANY, MANY Vipers' OEM power steering fluids just to proove the point to myself.

 

[Viper Specialty]

If you had that car out and run the pump dry, REPLACE THAT PUMP- it is surely compromised. Also, when you replace the pump and line, flush that system like its going out of style, or you will have a repeatof this before long. There is surely particulate in the system now- get it out or you will be replacing the pump, fan and steering rack in a few thousand miles- if that.

ATF+4 or PS+4 ONLY [same thing]

NO regular PS fluid!

 

[CHAOS]

I plan on flushing everything even though there must be 3 gallons of fluid that came out of all these parts so far, they never stop leaking!!!

I have all new stainless lines, pump, fittings, o-rings, pulley (crack or split, maybe by design?), service manual, pulley puller/install tool, large metric wrenches, aluminum wrenches, soft jaw vise and now I am guessing a new reservoir is needed because as I was putting everything back together it looks like there is "wetness" where the two pieces are pressed together.

What a pain. Here is the real questions though, I have been reading for three days and since two dealers in my area recommended different fluids and said the other didnt know what they were talking about... WTH goes into this thing, power steering or ATF? And really, why would it matter at all?

 

[Allan]

ATF+4 fluid...................don't stress.

 

[Viper Specialty]

ATF+4. ONLY.

It matters because the mixing of the two fluids can cause another failure. It matters because ATF+4 won't burn your car to the ground if it springs a leak. It matters because the hydraulic fan is better suited to ATF+4 than regular PS fluid.

But most of all, it matters becaus that is what is supposed to be in there, regardless of the fact that the morons that wrote the manuals never bothered to update anything, and to this day half of the spec sheets are STILL wrong.

 

[PeterMJ]

I do not think it is a matter of what type of fluid you use, it is the viscosity, friction modifiers and longevity of the fluid that are required. If I am correct, ATF +3 and +4 have the same viscosity that is superior to any other fluids but the +4 loses less viscosity than 3 over time and considerably less than conventional ATF or PS fluids. I suppose you could look into synthetic ATF but why chance it if ATF+4 costs less and is exactly what Chrysler specifies? ATF+4 is good for 100k miles, thus, unless you get a leak, you never have to replace it.