250 degree red overheat - the outcome

LW VIPER

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If you recall, I asked for advice after a Saturday of spirited driving up a mountain, against a buddy's Porsche Boxster, lead to the Check Engine light coming on, and the needle buried in the red.

Today I went to Ted May, my local Viper Tech, and explained the situation. The first thing he did was plug in a portable computer to see if the car "threw any codes" which it didn't. He checked the "thermostat crossover" for leaks, and there weren't any. He checked for coolant leak from the head gaskets - there weren't any, and the original gaskets seem to be holding so far.

He did pull off a hose near the coolant resevoir, and put water into it to fill the overflow bottle at the front fascia. The explanation was that the system might have allowed a little air into it, and under "race" conditions that could be enough.

He also suggested that the electric fan on the 98 and newer Vipers was centered in the fan instead of offset, and somewhat larger. I'm going to have him install one for me next Tuesday.

I asked him about removing the 215% Thermostat and putting in a 185. He thought that would be a decent idea if ever there were a leak, and the price of replacing the thermostat could be included in an otherwise needed repair. Otherwise, he felt his cost to me would be too high for the value.

He also stated that a Fluidyne Radiator, with the newer fan would probably solve all heating problems, but that solution was fairly expensive, and we may have the problem cured by smaller steps along the way.

Actually, just filling up the overflow bottle seemed to drop the temperature in bumper to bumper (but not stressed) driving tonight.

I'm also considering a method to reduce the catalytic converter size in the sills, allow more exhaust to escape.

While I was in, I had the K & N filters installed to go with my smooth tubes.
It may just be my imagination, but it seems as though the throttle response is is quicker.

I take comfort in the findings that nothing is wrong, but that if I want to drive aggressively, that a more modern fan, a better flowing exhaust system, and the K & Ns may be enough to solve the overheating problem --- at least until the head gaskets decide to give up the day.

Still, all in all, the work we're going to do will be less than a grand, and even a head gasket replacement (without porting and polishing) could be under $2,000. Not such a bad price to turn a great car into a reliably great car at speed.

Next up........ replacing the tires which look pretty tired at 10, 400 miles.

Thanks for the help, guys and gals.

Larry
:usa: :2tu: :2tu: :)
 

Tom F&L GoR

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Larry,
You can't change just the fan - the studs on your current radiator to mount the shroud/fan combo don't line up with the centered fan/shroud mounting holes. Where the studs are on your OEM radiator, the new fan shroud plastic is too thin to drill through and expect it to be supported. The radiator itself is the same, it's only where the studs are soldered. You'll have to get the newer radiator as well. Been there, tried that.
 

Phil Lee 94 red RT

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When I add roe high flow exhaust, I found that my motor ran cooler and cooled down much faster than before. Plus the sound is great.Maybe that would help if you have stock exhaust.
 

95Viper

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If he pulled the hose to fill the facia overflow bottle, the assumption would be that you were low on fluid. the question is why?

Did he burp after this? If not, jack the passenger front side up, remove radiator cap and burp. When completed and facia bottle is checked for level, top off surrogate tank, replace cap, squeeze upper hose one last time and you'll hear fluid going from surrogate tank into facia bottle. Releasing will **** fluid back into surrogate tank.

Go to autoparts store and buy a little pack of spring hose clamps and clamp the 3 connections of rubber to metal to rubber from surrogate tank to facia bottle. During cool down, it's been known to draw air in system at these points.
 

LTHL VPR

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I didn't see that you described any sort of examination of the water pump or pulley. I faulty water pump may appear to work great under normal driving conditions, but then as you put the car under heavy load (ie hill climbing) and then up the rpms, the pump or possibly pulley will not work properly and it will cause a similar problem. What was done to ensure there was no head gasket leak; a simple visual examination or a thorough compression/leakdown test. Either way, if all that was done is what you described I would not be so sure there is nothing wrong yet... Sorry to be not so optimistic....
Good luck!
 

Tomer

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Larry, sorry to hear of your troubles! maybe we should duplicate your run, my 96 is pretty much set up the way you are looking to go. I have the newer fan installed, stock radiator, new 190 thermostat (just in case, my Tech recommended against the 180, as the system is designed for a 190, and once they are open, there is no difference in operation) and I have HF cats and Corsa cat back...

Sounds like you may have had some air in the system.

Tomer
 

Elite1

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I just had a similar problem with my 01. It turns out that the impeller had 2 cracks in the shaft and it was spinning inside the pump. Bobby Archer's shop had a newly designed impeller made out of AL. They were able to press on the new impeller and I now have a much improved cooling system as this impeller flows I think 15% greater volume plus the reliability of an AL component vs what was their, some sort of plastic, make me feel better.
 

Paul Hawker

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Gen 2 Vipers tend to overheat, when run at high RPM's for any length of time. Easiest fix may be to take advantage of your fantastic low RPM torque, and run your car lower in the rev range when driving up hills in a hurry.
Racing a Viper is as much about heat management, (brakes, coolant) as is track skill.
 

XS TORQ

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Larry,
Ted knows the cars very well (he has a 96 as well as a few others that he tracks regularly). He will now what it takes to change out the fan (which I had done on my 94 under warranty a few years back). Since the fan change, and a less restrictive exhaust my car is much happier. Initially I only changed out the mufflers - great bang for the buck, sounds a lot better, dyno results were better, and cooled off the side sills and engine considerably!
Sounds like you had air in the system. I installed hoses w/ bleeders in them that makes it easy to get rid of any air.
 

GR8_ASP

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I switched to the more recent fan on my 95 with no problem. The screws replaced just fine, except for the center bottom screw which is not used with the new fan. The connector is different requiring you to splice in the old connector on the new fan. Definitely worth the upgrade.
 

txlen

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yea...the car should have a 195-degree t-stat in it....i use the roe 180 t-stat all the time with no probs....if you put on the new style fan you will have to change the wiring connector...it should come with the fan as a kit...and if you put the roe radiator hoses on it you can bled the air outta the system alot easier...Len
 
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LW VIPER

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The difference between Vipers and other cars is that I'm almost looking forward to spending the money on the new fan and exhaust components, just to see if the car runs cooler under stress.

Who's up for a Mt. Hamilton run the Saturday after next?

I want to try out the new toys.

I must say, the K&N filters actually made a difference in the "feel" of throttle response. I figured it was hype, and maybe it's all in my head, but the car seems more responsive.
 

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