A good idea - George (MGW) Jon B. (Parts Rack)

[onerareviper]

Here's an idea (Maybe someones already done it???):

A stainless steel bolt/screw kit that can replace all the typical rusty bolts/screws that the Viper experiences (Also called the rusty bolt/screw syndrome).

Places I've noticed: 14 bolts attaching rear, bolts in wheel wells, several in the engine compartment, crappy side sill bolts, etc...

I am slowly replacing these by removing, taking to hardware store, and trying to match up with a superior stainless steel equivalent.

Sure would be a lot easier to have one of you guys do the leg work, and make a profit for your time. This is freak'in frustrating....

 

[Nadine UK GTS]

Me too! Good on you "rareone" for putting forwards the idea. I've been taking the bolts one by one for stainless match up, to replace. Not always easy getting correct sized washers, and same looking heads on the bolts for the rear wheel-wells.

 

[Jerry Colpitts]

Type your text herecount me in . hopefully enough of us post on this to get someone to make up a bolt upgrade kit . mid-america has complete bolt and screw replacement packs for the vette for every bolt and screw in the whole **** car.

 

[MtHam ACR]

don't forget the bolt on the interior of the gas cap -- mine looks like the plated head was 'ground to fit or clear' the plastic cap and is consequently rusting - a real bummer everytime I need fuel, which is as we all know, frequently

Eric

 

[Craig 201 MPH]

This got my entrepreneurial mind going. What would one pay for one of these kits that was organized and sent complete? If it is enough I would consider doing this on the side alongside of my normal out of school summer work.

Let me know.

Craig

 

[Craig 201 MPH]

well for what it's worth I will look into this next time I can get at our GTS and see what it would take. It's in storage and I'm at University, though I'm done in april so It should be about then.

Craig

 

[Rare1]

Great idea! I´m in!

Mikael

 

[Paul S Lacey]

Yep, count me in too I would even consider a bulk order for the UK members, there are more MGW parts on my Viper than Dodge parts

 

[JetMec]

This might be a good start. http://www.southcoaststainless.com/
Or... maybe this one. http://totallystainless.net/totally.html
I have their catalogue somewhere. Big selection, but no kit for viper that I can remember. Where is that catalogue?

 

[shifter]

I have done exactly what 'onerareviper' did. I replaced 100% of the original screws, bolts, nuts, and washers with Stainless Steel versions. Took quite a few trips to the hardware store.

I have notes somewhere describing the total number of each screw, nut, bolt, washer by size and location on my RT (in case I wanted to put them back). I'll try to dig it up when I get a chance. The cost was well above $25 due to some the Metric sizes in Stainless, but bulk purchasing should provide much lower costs.

Like Nadine mentioned, it isn't easy getting that perfect look - all heads matching, but it is possible (I even have the all the heads aligned in the same direction) - yeah I know -no life.

 

[Anthony - 98 GTS]

I would be interested.

 

[Matt M PA]

I can put together the hardware kits that are being discussed. From my years doing Mopar restoration, I know where to get all kinds of weird hardware. I can start on this in a week or so, as soon as my project car gets to the body shop, and the GTS can get into that stall again. I think I can get this done quickly. But, there are a few points that need to be addressed. If stainless steel is desired, we may have to use a separate bolt and washer, where the originals were a bolt with a captive/free spinning washer. Sizing would be the same as originals. Once installed the difference would not be noticeable. Also, the exact head shape of the bolts would be difficult to replicate, so how about torx or allen head bolts? (With flatter, rounded heads) That would certainly look better. The only other deciding factor would be whether we should use polished stainless or unpolished. Polished is twice as costly. (We could do them all in plain, and then the end user could polish if he or she wishes them to be polished.) Finally, cost. Stainless steel isn’t cheap. If I can get an idea of how many will be sold, I will inquire to the possibility of bulk purchases.

 

[KenH]

I would also be interested. I did this on my last car (mostly engine hardware) and it was a pain. Well worth paying someone extra to take care of the hassles. Depends on how many fasteners really need to be replaced and how large they are, but I probably spent about $50 for unpolished parts, although I bought extra because I was also considering putting a kit together to sell.

I would think a kit would need to go for around at least $75-$100 to make it worthwhile for the person doing it. This would need to include bagging and clearly labeling the parts for where they go, boxing and shipping.

Of course there is also probably the problem of 'the year matters'.

--- Ken

 

[luc]

The problem with the Viper fasteners rusting is due to poor plating and/or coating.

You could remove all those rusty fasteners and have them plated,could be black oxide,yellow dichromate,cadmium,etc.

Like that you will have the original fasteners and no more rust problem.

Luc.00GTS.

 

[KenH]

Luc, good point, but to have fasteners plated generally requires a lot charge which would be as much or more than just going with SS. Seems like last time I did this, there was a $50 lot charge. Also, black oxide does not provide good rust protection, black zinc would be a better option if black hardware is desired. The other downside to platings are that they can get damaged during installation and you still have a rust problem.

--- Ken

 

[onerareviper]

Luc,

From my experiences, it is easier to remove one bolt/screw and replace. Move on to next bolt/screw, remove/replace, etc... For example, if I removed all 14 bolts from the rear body panel (near exhaust), had them coated, it would be a royal pain in the a*s to get them all line-up properly and re-insert. But one at a time doesn't seem to cause much problem. Does this make sense???

Later

P.S. - Joe(Shifter), that info. would be great if you find it. Thanks.

 

[Anthony - 98 GTS]

I would want stainless - all polished.

 

[Robert1994]

Most of my problem seems to be with the plastic "thumb screws"
because you can't bop down to the local hardware store and
buy them. Truth be known, you can't even get them thru DM.
You can out-source them piece by piece, but it's sure not
cost worthy.
A true replacement "kit" would be great, BUT !!, you must
include RT/10 speaker door grille's base speaker grilles.

 

[C O D Y]

Count me in, however you will need to include some sort of directions / placement.

 

[shifter]

Looked for the list of screws and bolts yesterday in my Viper folder, but couldn't find it. My wife thinks she knows where she put it from our last move. I can't believe how much stuff I've lost to misc. boxes in my house! Now if my old favorite tattered sweatshirt splattered with Viper fluids disappears, I'll start to suspect foul play

Anyway, one other comment before everyone gets psyched to replace all their fasteners. The Stainless screws and bolts that I used (basically replaced all the exterior fasteners -sills, rear wheel wells and facia, speaker grilles in doors, and some underhood fasteners) did effect the look and some I wound up switching to black oxide steel. Specifically the rear wheel well screws and the door speaker grille screws. The Stainless (I used the natural finish, not polished) looked funny in the black wheel well, and it also looked funny in the speaker grilles. They really stood out and I didn't like it. Just didn't seem right to draw attention to the wheel well.

If the black oxide screws corrode or become significantly scratched, then I'll just replace them with the same.

 

[Matt M PA]

At the risk of ruining a possbile opportunity, what I did with the rusty black hardware on my Vipers was to remove a few, blast them, and paint them flat black. You could run them against a wire wheel too. Flat black paint look much like phosphate, so they still look original. If you are just a bot careful when you put them back, they look fine. (Just make sure the paint is completely dry before putting them back on.

 

[SlowCreamPuff]

How about a complete set of Titanium fasteners?

Save a little weight.