Paolo Castellano
Would you have the specs for a 2000 rt/10?
NewredRT: here is a copy of the email I sent Adam. I have gotten other emails asking me for more details so here they are:
Adam, I am not sure what suspension work you are having/have had done. I am also not sure if my alignment specs will work as well on a gen-1. I also do not know if you would be willing to lower your car with all the beautiful bodywork/painting I have seen on the internet.==> Here are some alignment specs that are more aggressive for the street WITHOUT wearing your tires out on the insides like a full race alignment has done on my car in a matter of 1500 miles.
Right and left front (toe-in: 1/16") (camber -.75 degrees) Caster: stock ~ 6.5
Right and left rear (toe-in: 1/16") (camber -.5 degrees) On the rears, you could possibly go slightly more toe in depending on if the rear end is squirrely.
Corner weighting: with adjustable coil-over shocks, you can adjust how high or how low each corner sits.
Example: lets assume the car weighs 4000 LBS for the ease of #'s sake.
Since the car has the battery in one spot, spare tire here, intercooler there, brake master cylinder there/etc....... It is virtually impossible to have the 4000# car have 1000# on each corner(Perfect 50/50 distribution) with all 4 corners at EXACTLY the same height.
So the basic concept of the corner weighting is having equal bias. Bias is the amount of poundage(of the hypothetical 4000#) you get when adding up (right front + left rear) and (left front and right rear)
==> If you could get 2000 Pounds for each one, you would be doing very, very well even if you got within 20-30# of that.
something like this would be great:
LF 980# RF 970#
LR 1030# RR 1020#
With these specs, imagine if you raised the left rear slightly, now there would be less than 1030# on the left rear and more than 970# on the right front.==> This is how they achieve certain handling characteristics for a car for different kinds of tracks. The Formula-1 guys use some metal that is much more dense than lead and they place it in different, focused, points of the car to achieve desired handling/weight transfer characteristics.
The alignment guy must have scales for each corner. I highly recommend you are sitting in your full tank of gas car for the duration of the cornerweighting AND alignment. Do this and the car will drive and handle best when you are driving alone{the way it should be}.
I know my car is set up with 52% of the weight to the rear and 48% on the front with the current road race setup I used for the magazine test.==> with 52% on the rears you also have more weight on the rears to start with ie traction. Also, you have more weight to transfer to the fronts for threshold braking.
I am not sure how much knowledge you have regarding these matters, I apologize if I was too redundant on the things you already know.
If you have any further questions, feel free to email or call me. 630-878-3907
Paolo
P.S. My car does not get squirrely at all in a straight line even when the tires are spinning at 100+ MPH!
three inches on the ground
