Advice on Pinning the Crankshaft??

[cayman]

Getting ready to install the Roe SC next weekend. The only PITA item I see is pinning the crankshaft. Any advice on making it easier, if there is such a thing??

 

[Shelby3]

Quality drill bits and a right angle drill.

 

[cayman]

Quality drill bits and a right angle drill.

What's a good right angle drill that people are using with good success?

 

[Shelby3]

I don't recall the one I used as it was borrowed but the smaller the better. You don't have much room to work with.

 

[Mr Hemi Head]

I bought this drill and a titanium bit from the Home Depot. About 15min. to drill both holes.


http://www.mytoolstore.com/milwauke/0375-6.html

 

[big-n-italian]

what they said. ^^^^^

 

[Steve 00RT/10]

The crank pulley does not need to be removed to pin the crank shaft. It's a pain working down there anyway so the less to take off--the better. I bought a little air drill (not angle---about $35))for my compressor and used a cobalt bit. It drilled like butter. Also, as every car is a little different, I found that I had to position the crank pulley bolts holes I used at roughly 11:50. 12 O'clock would not work for me.

hint.....in order to turn the engine easily to get to the proper postition to fit the drill in, you might want to take the plugs out.

This was the worst part of the install for me. My wife actually torqued the bolt to 250 pounds with a 5 foot pipe on the rachet for a cheater. I removed the upper radiator hose to have more room to move the big wrench.

Steve

 

[Steve 00RT/10]

........if you don't remove the crank pulley, the recess in the template block needs to be turned to the outside or you need to subtract the thickness of the recess from your drilling depth which is essentially the thickness of the crank pulley.

Steve

 

[boman]

On my GenI, I was able to use a "Husky" air drill that I purchased at Home Depot. If you already have an air compressor it is a lot cheaper. I had to resharpen the drill bit once. If you reverse the fixture, you do not have to remove the pulley. Be sure to check for the proper depth for the pins. Measure accurately with the fixture and the pins to get the proper depth for the holes. You don't want them too deep, but if they are not deep enough you will have to shorten the pins after they are installed.
I don't know if there are Murray's Auto Parts stores near you. They have a free tool lending program. They had a big torque wrench, but I still used a pipe over it to get more leverage. The crank bolt has to be torqued to 250 ft-lbs. Putting the car in gear with the park brake on is strong enough to hold the crankshaft. With the right stack up of socket and extensions, I was able to back up the torque wrench agaists the front sway bar to prevent the socket from backing off. I held it straight up. This allowed me to torque it unassisted.
I'm not sure how to attach an image, so I will e-mail you some pictures.

 

[SYNFULL]

I am a little confused here- If you don't have to take the crank pulley off, why did your wife have to torque it to 250 lbs, or was this done in the process of trying to turn the crank with the ratchet?

The crank pulley does not need to be removed to pin the crank shaft. It's a pain working down there anyway so the less to take off--the better. I bought a little air drill (not angle---about $35))for my compressor and used a cobalt bit. It drilled like butter. Also, as every car is a little different, I found that I had to position the crank pulley bolts holes I used at roughly 11:50. 12 O'clock would not work for me.

hint.....in order to turn the engine easily to get to the proper postition to fit the drill in, you might want to take the plugs out.

This was the worst part of the install for me. My wife actually torqued the bolt to 250 pounds with a 5 foot pipe on the rachet for a cheater. I removed the upper radiator hose to have more room to move the big wrench.

Steve

 

[newredrt10]

Question to everyone. Has anyone tried the red lock tight way. I did this to mine and it is still tight after 6,000 miles. I did this because of some of the problems some people had.

 

[Steve 00RT/10]

I am a little confused here- If you don't have to take the crank pulley off, why did your wife have to torque it to 250 lbs, or was this done in the process of trying to turn the crank with the ratchet?

The crank pulley is not held on by the crank bolt. It is bolted to the balancer with 6 bolts. The crank bolt has to be removed to expose the area for drilling.

Steve

 

[SYNFULL]

Steva
Thanks for the explanation and pics. I will probably have to do this if I go with the roe s/c.

Gary

 

[cayman]

Steva
Thanks for the explanation and pics. I will probably have to do this if I go with the roe s/c.

Gary

Ditto Steve. Thanks for the pics. That helps!

 

[KepRght]

while your doing this, is there a better balancer then stock, or is the stock balancer the best?

 

[Shelby3]

while your doing this, is there a better balancer then stock, or is the stock balancer the best?

I upgraded to the ATI. Keyed verses pinned.

 

[VENOMAHOLIC]

Roe sells a crank pin kit. It comes with a drill bit, guideplate, and very good instructions. I think $65 was what I spent. I had a garage do it for me since I didn't have time. Easier to do on a lift from underneath.

 

[Steve 00RT/10]

Roe sells a crank pin kit. It comes with a drill bit, guideplate, and very good instructions. I think $65 was what I spent. I had a garage do it for me since I didn't have time. Easier to do on a lift from underneath.

...instructions are good ,but tell you to take the crank pulley off. That is not necessary. Also, I'm not sure it's possible to do from underneath. I believe they lift the engine slightly on some Gen I cars to allow access to drill. ....It's a heck of a lot easier drilling 2+ inches into solid steel from a down position---reaching in from over the front fascia---as opposed to drilling overhead from underneath.

Steve