Antifreeze/Coolant

[KaiPL]

My antifreeze/coolant has boiled over twice now. Both times, the temperature gauge never strayed from the normal operating ranges. As a result, I'm a little low on coolant.

Where do you get this MOPAR HOAT coolant the owner's manual speaks of? Do I have to get it from a Dodge dealer, or is it available at a typical auto supply store? Is it Zerex G-05 coolant?



Thanks

Kai

 

[KaiPL]

Answered my own questions this morning.

It is Zerex G-05 coolant, but it's hard to find at auto shops.

Any Dodge/Chrysler/Benz dealer stocks it, though, so that is the best place to find it.

 

[Steve-Indy]

...and, WHY is your Viper boiling over ??? Would head to dealer SOON...by my memory, yours is a 2004...and, should therefore be past the coolant module problem. ..WORRISOME, nonetheless !!! Please let us know what you find is the problem.

 

[95Viper]

I found Zerex G05 at Autozone in MI. It's in the Gold bottle.

 

[KaiPL]

...and, WHY is your Viper boiling over ??? Would head to dealer SOON...by my memory, yours is a 2004...and, should therefore be past the coolant module problem. ..WORRISOME, nonetheless !!! Please let us know what you find is the problem.

I did take it to the dealer. They checked it out and said nothing was wrong, just a loose cap, or maybe coolant overfill.

First time it happened was during dyno testing. Temp gauge said heat was normal. The coolant came bubbling out of the container.

Second time was at the track. Same situation. Temp gauge well within normal operating temps, but the fluid spews out of the container again.

I cranked the lid down really really tight. Hasn't happened since, but the level has also been lower. If I keep having this problem, I'm headed back to the dealer.

Kai

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

This may not apply at all, but it's good to know about. On the bottom (gasket end) of the radiator cap is a metal disc. If it's loose, it's called a drop center. If it's spring loaded upward, it's called a spring center. Both are normal, and the disc is the valve that allows coolant to be sucked back into the block when it cools down.

Sometimes the drop center type doesn't work well when the hose length between overflow container and radiator cap is long. I had some odd little problems trying to keep the plastic container on the fenderwell with the radiator cap full; fluid would expand and go to the overflow, but not get sucked back enough. I'd slowly loose the coolant charge over time, even while it would puke out into the front fascia. Switched to a spring center type and it's been fine ever since.

 

[GR8_ASP]

Not sure which cap design the SRT has but I replaced the cap on my RT/10 with a full pressure cap (spring center as Tom called it). The primary difference is that the full pressure cap does not need coolant contact to close, as it is closed with spring force. The partial pressure cap may not close completely, especially in instances where coolant movement is minimal. The dyno example fits that category very well.

I will have to check the SRT next time I have it out from under the lift. My opinion is that all caps should be full pressure to ensure adequate system pressurization. Without pressurization the boiling point of the coolant is lowered significantly.