anyone blow headgasket on a gen 2?

[Slowsupratt]

Damn this ****!! My car was running hot and I was checking the fluids and there is coolant in the oil! Looks like yellow milky stuff. Any advice? Can I head and just replace the gasket? Does the block and head have to be resurfaced?

 

[ViperVon]

The block should be fine but the heads maybe not. You can check them both with a straight bar and feeler gauges to see if they're true or warped. It's usually the thin spots between the cylinders that goes.

 

[Slowsupratt]

thin spots on the cylinder walls?...as in a damaged engine block?

 

[ViperVon]

No, the block should be fine. The thin spots on the heads between the different cylinders or if you're looking at the gaskets between the center of each hole.

 

[Slowsupratt]

oh ok, I was getting worried. I know this is going to be expensive.

 

[ViperVon]

The job is not too bad to do. Everything is accessible and pretty straight forward. The expense comes in when you start throwing mods in, because it's apart anyways, for those extra ponies

 

[eucharistos]

Slowsupratt - sorry for the bad news, at least you caught it in time.

The expense comes in when you start throwing mods in, because it's apart anyways, for those extra ponies

glass half full sort of thing. Hope it never happens to me but if it does its mod city.

 

[Joseph Dell]

One thing to look for when you drain the oil: The oil in the oil cooler is also milky. best thing to do is to remove it and clean it (and flush it if you can) with new oil. With the heads off, consider a port job. If you just want to get back on the road in no-time, then have them checked and possibly milled the bare-minimum to ensure straightness.

good luck!

 

[Viper Specialty]

DO NOT RUN THE CAR, DUMP OIL ASAP.

Since the car already had severe oil contamination, dump the oil and flush the cooler as quickly as possible. Also, dump the coolant to prevent further contamination. I advise starting the car and running it for 10 seconds after putting in some fresh oil just to flush off bearings/surfaces and prevent any possible corrosion. This is not long enough to overheat anything w/o coolant, but DONT run it longer.

After the heads & gaskets are R&R'd, dump the oil again, change the filter, and remove the oil pan as it may have coolant puddled at the bottom of it. Reinstall and refill with fresh oil, and you should be good to go.

If you need any help with the heads or any parts to repair, let us know.

 

[RTTTTed]

I replaced haedgaskets on my Roe 10# sc'd engine at 36,000mi. One of the gaskets was seeping slightly and I decided to do some porting and internal checking of wear. Everything looked great, no visible wear and ported the heads while waiting for gaskets to get here in mail.

I didn't need to do any cutting/shaving I just did a good job of cleaning the block and head surfaces before installing the new gaskets and reassembling.

Ted

 

[Slowsupratt]

As far as draining the oil and putting in new oil, can I just use good ol fashion mineral oil? It will be dumped again once the headgasket is done and then mobil one will be put back in.

 

[mjorgensen Woodhouse]

We just had a GTS in the shop with the same problems and the issue ended up being a block defect. When you pull the heads check also to see if the liners have "sunk" into the block. There car be a issue were the liners were not fully seated when new and as the block expands and contracts it can cause them to drop and prevent the head gaskets from sealing properly.

Not trying to scare you but I never thought of this either till we encountered it.

 

[Tom Sessions]

What year is the car?if it is a 96-98 it may not even be the head gaskets.You may have a timing cover gasket that has failed allowing coolant into the oil.You will still need to go through all the cleaning process but its a lot less work to do a timing cover gasket than heads.To check this i would pull the oil pan refill the colin system with water then pressure test the cooling system and see if water is leaking inside the block at the front of the engine.

 

[99 R/T 10]

What year is the car?if it is a 96-98 it may not even be the head gaskets.You may have a timing cover gasket that has failed allowing coolant into the oil.You will still need to go through all the cleaning process but its a lot less work to do a timing cover gasket than heads.To check this i would pull the oil pan refill the colin system with water then pressure test the cooling system and see if water is leaking inside the block at the front of the engine.

Hope and pray that Tom is correct! This will be a very easy fix compared to the heads or block being messed up. Get to work and post up what you find!

 

[Slowsupratt]

I can flush the engine with regular non-synthetic oil right?

 

[RTTTTed]

You bet. Oil is oil. Synthetic is the best. Synthetic oil lasts longer, works better and handles heat MUCH better. It's also twice the price.

I'd use the group 2 (ordinary) oil as well.

Ted

 

[SquadX]

So when doing a engine flush, its ok to use non-synthetic oil for the flush only and then use Synthetic oil afterwards as normal? I am about to do a flush and dont really want to spend $60 in oil that is only going to be in my engine for 10-15 minutes, but if I have to then I will.

 

[RTTTTed]

Yes, of course. Use oil. Then buy the much more expensive synthetic oil later. Oil is oil.

Ted

 

[Slowsupratt]

Alright, after I get home from work I will finally be able to start working on this. So have a few questions real quick

I'm going to drain the oil.
Fill it up with new oil and run in for a couple minutes.
Then I will drain the oil again and pull the oil pan.

Now from here i have a few questions.
What should I use to clean up the "mess" once I pull the pan?
What do I use to pressurise the system to see wether it is the headgasket or the timing cover? (crosses fingers it's the timing cover).

 

[Tom Sessions]

They make a cooling system pressure tester. It goes on on place of the radiator cap and you pump it up to pressurize the system.

 

[Dan Cragin]

Tom is correct, pull the oil pan and look up at the front timing cover gasket. You will see if it is leaking.

 

[Slowsupratt]

Well work was a little hectic so no time to work on the car today. The only update is that I drained the oil filled it with some fresh oil and ran it for a couple of minutes. The oil looks good for the most part. There is some small traces of coolant from all the left over gunk. The oil I drained out of it looked like mustard. At least it felt like oil. Tomorrow I will drain it once again and pull the oil pan. I picked up the radiator pressure tester and will give you all an update in a couple of days. Thanks for everyones help, much appreciated.

 

[Bolt]

Damn this ****!! My car was running hot and I was checking the fluids and there is coolant in the oil! Looks like yellow milky stuff. Any advice? Can I head and just replace the gasket? Does the block and head have to be resurfaced?

Are you sure it's the head gasket? I blew out my timing chain cover gasket and here is what it looked like. Very comon problem.

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Here is a video link:
http://photos.imageevent.com/bolt/viperbuild/Movie_0001.wmv


_

 

[Slowsupratt]

That how my oil looked. Anyone by chance have any step-by step directions on how to do this. Or even better can anyone scan me the section in the service manual for changing out a timing gasket.

 

[SquadX]

Well here's a start (after you have drained oil and coolant).
You have to remove water pump, a/c bolts (two of them), undo power steering pump and move to the side, disconnect raditor and water pump hoses, Cam sensor.
Remove the crank bolt, damper and balancer (this can be a bi#ch). You will have to remove the oil adapter from timing cover but not do not disconnect it from oil lines (just move to the side). You will need a timing cover gasket, a oil adapter gasket and a round crank gasket (not sure what its called but it fits in behind the balancer (oil pump adapter maybe) and tricky to get off and more so to get on).

Others please chime in as I know I am missing something and this is in no particular order but water pump, a/c bolts and power steering pump and oil adapter will need to come off first.

I also removed the power steering cooler for more working room and the crank bolt is tq. to 250ft lbs. Took me about 5-10 minutes to get loose with a tq wrench. Just keep working at it with the parking brake on and the car in gear ( I forgot which gear I had it in). You may need someone to stand on the brakes also to keep the car from creeping. Call Chuck for more advise, (sorry Chuck if your busy).

Call chuck for the gaskets, had mine in 3 days and at a good price.

 

[Slowsupratt]

I pulled the pan and Pressurized the radiator and hear a hissing sound which sounds like its either coming from the front cylinders or the timing cover. I can't see any liquid or air bubbles to see where its coming from. Do i need to add water in the coolant reserve tank and then pressurize the system? I'm having a hard time finding out where it's coming from. I'm praying it's the timing gasket.

 

[RTTTTed]

You can just pull the timing cover gasket ... or if you're you want to see the leak - add water with food coloring (food dye) and then pressureize the system. The food coloring makes the water leak easy to see as it leaks inside the engine. Food coloring is non-toxic to your engine.

Ted

 

[Tom Sessions]

They usually leak on the drivers side of the timing cover about half way up the cover.I think your safe to say its not a head gasket.the only other thing to keep in mind is that the bearings dont like antifreeze.So depending on how many miles are on the car it might be wise to replace the rod and main bearings.

 

[Slowsupratt]

Good news!!! It appears to be the timing cover...thanks for everyones help. Next step is to actually change the damn thing.

 

[Slowsupratt]

There is 18,500 miles on the car