Anyone have their 2003 OBDII Emissions tested yet?

[Janni]

My car just failed emissions testing for the following three reasons (systems)

1. Evaporative Emissions System (Not Ready)
2. O2 Sensor Heater (Not Ready)
3. Catalyst (Not Ready)

Spoke with my mechanic extraodinaire, Tom Sessions, and we've decided the Evap Emissions - my car had a full tank of gas and apparently it doesn't cycle the evaporative emissions canister check at a full tank.

Then the heater for the O2 sensors doesn't kick on if the car is warm. And ye s- the car was fairly warm. it's 7 miles to the inspection station and it was 87 degrees out.

Have no idea why the catalyst would show as "Not Ready"

Apparently, you cannot have more than one "Not Ready". So if that's the case, I am not sure it'll ever pass as it'll always be at operating temperature when I get there. I guess I could drop it off and let it sit for a few hours, but that seems unnecessary.

Car is completely, embarrassingly, stock.

4K miles.

It has NEVER had a check engine light. Battery has not been drained, computer has not been reset. Nothing.

Any ideas?

I am going to drive it around for hte next couple of days and then bring it back. There's nothing "wrong" with it.

Called DMV- they were helpful - as they recommended going to the dealer and having diagnostics done on it. Tom's out of town until Monday, so that's not going to happen.

 

[grayman]

Another reason to eliminate all this emissions crap altogether. Which pollutes worse? Your Viper or a 92 Diesel Peterbilt. Fortunately for the diesel, the automotive lobbyists have exempted them. Because obviously they dont spit out harmful contaminants into the same air as the Viper. Thank goodness we have no emissions in my county.

 

[Leonard Knight]

I bought my car out of state from THE Mr. Pemberton and had it shipped to California. Even though it was a 50 state car California requires a smog check before you can register it. Mine passed with no problem at all and I had been driving it around before going to the test station. You might try another station as maybe the one that tested yours was having some malfunction?

Leonar

 

[Janni]

Leonard -
We tried a different computer at the same station - same result. I'll try a few more miles, less gas and more start/stop cycles. Still odd there has never been a Check Engine Light but yet it's showing something "funny".

I wish I could get someone at DMV to fully explain what they test.

Oh wait - what the heck was I saying - I want a competent person at DMV. What a fool I am.....


I'll report back at the end of the week to see what happens...

 

[Leonard Knight]

Good luck. My son bought a 350Z from Mr.Pemberton also and it is still not registered because the DMV here does not seem to know how to do their job. It takes 2-3 weeks to get an appointment with them. Car will be paid for before he gets it registered. Anyway make sure you did not put any additives in. I had to smog my 96GTS recently and forgot I had put fuel injection cleaner in. Barely passed. California is checking vipers at test only stations a lot now because many people are modding them and not passing.

Good luck to you.

 

[Janni]

Interestingly enough, this is not a true "smog" check. They do not use the tailpipe sniffers, so I am sure if they did the true sniffer test, that I would pass.

They do an OBD II test by plugging directly into the DRB port under the dash and they then turn the car on and check the systems through the computer system. That's what said hte three systems were "Not Ready"

Another club member is taking her SRT today and she'll report back if she has the same issues.

I'll keep you posted.

 

[Leonard Knight]

You might have the dealer clear any codes just before you take the car in as well. In addition I am sure any problem is covered under warranty.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Janni, I'm no expert, but after reading this
http://www.gatewaycleanair.com/mechanic/air5_5/readines.htm
it seems like you need to drive the car more, and perhaps over a driving cycle that "allows" all the self-checking stuff to have a chance to check under certain conditions. If I read this right, if you don't drive say, highway conditions, then the self-checker that is waiting for highway conditions to conduct it's check won't be able to do so, and it remains "not ready."

It also says: readiness monitors was incorporated into OBDII to prevent owners from attempting to pass vehicles not in compliance by clearing the vehicle’s DTCs and then quickly retesting the vehicle before the problem was detected (and the DTC was reset ). Unlike DTCs, readiness monitors cannot be manipulated via a scanner.

More quotes: Since readiness monitors require specific speed and load conditions in order to run the monitor accurately, drive cycles work best with smooth flat roads and steady throttle / brake changes. Constantly changing loads and throttle inputs may prevent the monitors from running to completion.

Good luck.

 

[Janni]

HA! The Geek comes through again.

I thought that it might be something like that. I don't drive the car that often - I work from home - and sometimes Henry takes it to work. I did "play" some on the way to the inspection place - not exactly constant throttle (although I was doing some highway driving)

Sounds like I'll have to make a trip out of town, then turn around and come back. I've mostly been making short hops with the car lately - as we have been pretty busy with the race car, etc.

I'll do a loop of the beltline (26 miles or so) and see if that helps.

Thanks, Tom.

Janni

EDIT - Anyone know what constitutes a "drive cycle" on a 2003?

 

[RC Viper]

Janni

Debbie had our car checked yesterday and it passed with flying colors.

 

[Roadrunner]

From the 2003 Viper owners manual page 74 "Malfuntion Indicator Light" - MIL light or engine light depending on what you like.

"If certain self-diagnostic monitors are not complete, the light starts flashing 14 seconds after the key is switched on and will continue flashing for approximately 11 seconds. If the OBD II monitors have completed, the MIL lamp will not flash as indicated above."

Keep in mind that the light will come on as part of the "bulb check"... so wait until the lamp tells you if you are ready, it will be steady instead of flashing. This will save trips to the CARB station.

 

[Janni]

I've never had a flashing MIL light... that I would have noticed - especially during the time outlined, as I always let the car idle for a little before driving off.

I'll check it when I start the car again - maybe I'll try again today....

I'll report back.

 

[JGK95]

Janni save yourself some time traveling to the DMV by going to a nearby autoparts store and borrowing their OBD-II computer. Usually a store employee will accompany you to your car and let you use the computer. They are less difficult to use than the computer your typing on. If in worst case scenario, flat out reset the computer and make a run to the DMV. Post passing the test, research whats necessary to resolve your car's problem. Good luck to you. Most often parts shops will demand that you buy the computer, here in the midwest AutoZone(cheap plug) will let you do the above so as to avoid buying the thing. However, its worth its weight in Gold for that piece of mind.

Cheers,

Jay K.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Janni,
AutoZone in NY has an Actron CP 9135 on sale for $100 (reg $130 or so) that plugs into the diagnostic port. Another popular model is an Equus 3100, about the same price. It tells you the current DTCs, pending DTCs, and gives you the same descriptive phrase as in the service manual (i.e. cyl #1 injector feedback loop...) rather than just the code number (e.g. P03010) It also can erase the DTCs (good) but also erases the "readiness" (maybe bad). Anyway, as JGK95 is alluding to, it's a pretty handy tool in any case.

 

[Daniel Cragin/DC Performance Inc]

I recently had one that would not pass the CARB readiness tests and it turned out to be the engine controller. Changed the PCM and it passed the Smog.

 

[Janni]

well, I am going to try to go at it again with just driving the car more. One of the things that they say is that by using the OBD II port, you eliminate the folks that were passing CARB by erasing the codes / check engine light and then running right to the inspection station, so I don't hink a code eraser is the answer. I need all the systems to show as ready - and something that erases it won't help - it's not showing as "bad" or broken, just not ready. Supposedly this is a step up from the "sniffer" test - which is one that I am sure I would pass with flying colors.

I'll plan a little drive, then to the emissions place *** see what happens. Otherwise, it's off to see Tom Sessions so he can complain about what a joke the OBD II testing is.

 

[Roadrunner]

The lamp flash routine does not show if you start the engine, simply key the ignition to "Run", and don't start the engine. If you start the engine, the light will go out completely and you won't be able to check readiness.

 

[Janni]

HA!

Went out and checked hte car cold with the start MIL flashing dohickey. My MIL light would not flash - it just stayed on with the key in the RUN position and the car not started. So, I headed to the inspection station.

Took it easy going there.

They plugged into the OBDII port and everyhting was fine. Car passed with flying colors - zero "Not Ready" indicators.

Very weird. Battery has never been disconnected. MIL light has never been on while driving. Nothings been done to the car really at all - with the excpetion of the couple of recalls - but that was done months ago.