Anyone have this issue? Rough Idle when hot sometimes, almost dies

neo_rambo

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I was driving home the other day got to a light put it in Neutral and noticed the rpm dropping almost to the point where it wanted to die. I slightly gassed it to keep it from dying. It has happened before maybe once or twice total but not as often as now. It happened 3 times on the way home. I did just get a full tank of gas.

Anyone have any suggestions on what I can check?

I do feel a lack in performance too. :dunno:
 
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neo_rambo

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Sorry I forgot It's a 2006 coupe. I did until just recently It's been off the tender for the past month or 2. But I haven't had any issues starting the car.
 

SquadX

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Id had said battery as well but could be a alternator not charging properly. When was the last time you changed your spark plugs?

I m hunting down a similar problem. My battery volts drop at night (headlights on) to 12 or lower but if I let the car sit for a bit, it will start up. Sending off to my vip tech within the next two weeks. Will keep you posted.
 
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neo_rambo

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Id had said battery as well but could be a alternator not charging properly. When was the last time you changed your spark plugs?

I m hunting down a similar problem. My battery volts drop at night (headlights on) to 12 or lower but if I let the car sit for a bit, it will start up. Sending off to my vip tech within the next two weeks. Will keep you posted.

My viper has 20k on it I haven't changed the spark plugs.
 

fqberful

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My viper has 20k on it I haven't changed the spark plugs.

It's definitely time for a plug change especially if you have those copper core ones that most '06 come from the factory with. If you want to run plugs for a lot of miles use high grade platinum or iridium. I prefer iridium for NA applications.

--FQB
 

fqberful

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If my CEL light isn't on will it still throw a code?

You can have codes with no CEL. Some codes require 3+ trips with the issue that caused the code to be present prior to turning on the CEL. Use a good tool to look at these.

--FQB
 

fqberful

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Could also be a plugged / inoperative IAC. A good scan tool like autotap & your laptop will show you what the PCM is feeding it, and help you diagnose if this is the issue.

--FQB
 

swexlin

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My vote is for battery first. I recently had a problem on initial cold start - would start, then die. On restart, a little gas, and she was fine. But, that was it - no issues when idling like yours.

New battery cured my issue, but sounds like these other guys might be on to something.
 
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neo_rambo

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I will check all the vacuum lines.

I'm going to change the battery first. It's still the old Chrysler battery. Does anyone have experience with Optima Yellow top? The only reason is that I can get that at cost through my wife's company. I have had the red top on my personal daily and love them. But I wasn't sure if you guys had any experience with Them on your vipers?

Then I will change the spark plugs to the Autolite - Spark Plug Part Number: XP985

And check to see if it is throwing any codes.
 
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LaViper

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:crazy2: Best battery I've EVER used, Sears Platinum. I had a simular problem & after spending too much money, it turned out to be bad O2 sensors. Good Luck. :drive:
 

lilgookiemonsta

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It's definitely time for a plug change especially if you have those copper core ones that most '06 come from the factory with. If you want to run plugs for a lot of miles use high grade platinum or iridium. I prefer iridium for NA applications.

--FQB

I thought the factory recommends spark plugs and wire change at 100,000 miles?
 

swexlin

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For a battery, don't fool around. I, like many others, took JonB's advice and installed a Sears Diehard Platimum Series 34. Worth the money.
 

Roysviper

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I thought the factory recommends spark plugs and wire change at 100,000 miles?

Holly Smokes!!!!! I would NEVER go 100,000 without changing plugs... I change mine about once a month. I also changed my plug wires at 26,000 mi. You must not be too concerned about keeping it tuned for max performance and just drive it seldom???? I would never have a Viper reach 100,000 in the first place, so that sure would save me money on plugs,ha. ALSO have you EVER replaced the air filters??? This is just my 2 cents.Like CHARLIE SHEEN said " IT's the way I roll" :lmao: :rolleyes: :eater:
 

fqberful

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I thought the factory recommends spark plugs and wire change at 100,000 miles?

According to the 2006 FSM plugs at 21000 miles, wires at 60000 miles.

Any non-platinum or iridium plugs will never go 100k miles, not ever. That would be a real stretch for iridiums.

If you're using the stock factory plugs then count on changing them at 5k - 10k miles. If platinum or better then you *might* want to go 20k out of them but I wouldn't push it past that.

Look at it like clean oil, good insurance. The GenI - III are all wasted spark systems and fire the plugs twice as much as you would normally think.

If you're getting up there in miles get a set of AB's wires and you're good to go probably for the life of the car.

--FQB
 

Roy

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sheesh, change those plugs every 2 years or such, they aint expensive...100.000 with plugs is madness and I guess the book says 26k for plugs ór every 2 years. Wires every 50k mls? or 4 years. I would do more often though
 

JonB

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JonB would you recommend this over an optima yellow or red top? I am also in the market for a new battery.

I have not been an Optima fan for Vipers, for a couple reasons, even tho I appreciate other applications, and their SPONSORSHIP of NEDRA, and other events I have participated in.

Sears Die-Hard has tremendous reserve and cranking power, ready availability everywhere, and an unconditional warantee, for a fair price.

--------------

PS OE Stock Motors just need OE plugs. OE wires start 'leaking' and cross-talking with AGE and heat-cycled MILES, kind of like Tire Rubber Ages (!!!!!!!!). So, new wires in a box dont age like driven, heat-cycled wires. 15k miles or 5-6 used years begins the downturn. You can often FEEL the snappier acceleration the moment you change plugs and wires.
 
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