Avg. price for "brake job"

Newport Viper

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Time to change out pads ( for something less dusty) and fluid.

12,500 miles. Rotors should be fine.....

Price you should pay for labor and fluid?

Greens or Reds for street driving?
 

supraman95

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Believe it or not my Greens dusted worse than the Hawk HPS's I had. I now am running HP Plus's and they are still not as bad as the Greens.

Anyone else experience this??

Changing pads in these cars is extremely easy. Any shop can really do it. So dont get ripped!
 
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Newport Viper

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Believe it or not my Greens dusted worse than the Hawk HPS's I had. I now am running HP Plus's and they are still not as bad as the Greens.

Anyone else experience this??

Changing pads in these cars is extremely easy. Any shop can really do it. So dont get ripped!


Were the greens better then stock?
 
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Go with Reds. Far less dust and better braking than greens in the new formulations.

Expect to pay about 400-500 for a brake job. 200-225 for the pads, 25-30 per rotor for resurfacing, 15-60 bucks for the fluid depending on type, install labor and fluid change labor...
 

Kala

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Hey Dave,
Bought the new Red pads from Daniel, had them installed at DC...
I'll have to look at the invoice, because I had other stuff done... DC pad install was way less than I would have thought.

Mine are making some noise. I've done some 60 - 0 stops, squealing is a bit better. If they don't get quiet soon, Dan said he has something he can do to them.

Dust is better than OEM, I've been told that the dust will get even lighter as the pads break in...

Car stops good :2tu:
 

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Kala- Yes, pads will get quieter and stop better once they bed. The break-in coating may be causing your sqealing. If DC did not cut your rotors when they installed, that will lengthen the break-in time considerably FYI.
 

REDSLED

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Dave, I should be down your way in a week or two. You buy the pads and I can put them on for you while you wait. I run the SRT-10 calipers on my race car and have tons of practice. :)
 

Kala

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If DC did not cut your rotors when they installed, that will lengthen the break-in time considerably FYI.

I believe Dan said the didn't cut my rotors... I drove over a hundred miles today alone. The sound is better. Car stops great, the dust is really light.

Other than the sound I'm happy... :drive:
 
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Newport Viper

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Dave, I should be down your way in a week or two. You buy the pads and I can put them on for you while you wait. I run the SRT-10 calipers on my race car and have tons of practice. :)

How do you say no to that? ;)

PM sent!



General question, do you need to "turn" the rotors on every brake job?
 
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viperbilliam

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Be careful about cutting rotors; you don't want to exceed the minimum thickness of the rotors or you will have to replace them. Rotors don't need cutting unless they are warped; there's a minimum runout tolerance for that which will determine whether they are warped or not.
 

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Racer Robbie

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Final,

Once the wheels are removed from a SRT Viper I can change all four sets of brake pads in 1 hour flat as there is no need to remove the calipers to change just the pads. I am talking about the brake pads only and not the parking brake pads. It is as simple as driving out the two retaining pins, removing the pad retainer spring, and pulling out the old pads. Install the new pads, retainer, and springs and you are set to go. All Data gives you more than enough time to do the job and any competent tech should be able to beat the flat rate above and make money.

Robbie
 

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Final,

Once the wheels are removed from a SRT Viper I can change all four sets of brake pads in 1 hour flat as there is no need to remove the calipers to change just the pads. I am talking about the brake pads only and not the parking brake pads. It is as simple as driving out the two retaining pins, removing the pad retainer spring, and pulling out the old pads. Install the new pads, retainer, and springs and you are set to go. All Data gives you more than enough time to do the job and any competent tech should be able to beat the flat rate above and make money.

Robbie

Thats if you arent cutting the rotors- which you really should be doing. I am well aware that the pins hold in the pads, but you should be cutting the rotors or scuffing them, ESPECIALLY if changing the pad types, as the OEM pads leave a residue on the rotors.
 

Racer Robbie

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Thats if you arent cutting the rotors- which you really should be doing. I am well aware that the pins hold in the pads, but you should be cutting the rotors or scuffing them, ESPECIALLY if changing the pad types, as the OEM pads leave a residue on the rotors.


Dan,

I agree with you completely but in the original post he asked how long to replace the pads only. He stated that the rotors should be fine.

Robbie
 

REDSLED

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Did Newport's brakes today. Took about 60 min to do all four corners using a single jack and jack stand. Gen 3 brakes are the easiest to do in my book. Not to worry Viper Dan I double checked to make sure the material side was facing the rotor this time! NO more Cal Speedway incidents!
 

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