Best short throw shifter? In your opinion/

STUGOTS

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Well I bought a B&M (not yet installed) but alot of the top guys seem to like hurst better.
 

KenH

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Two options

1) Shorten the throw with an MGW shift knob ($75) and a shorter SS shaft that you can get from places like Rich Detert ($25).

2) Replace with a complete shifter assy from B&M, Hurst or SVS for around $250-$300 plus install.
 

STUGOTS

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Two options

1) Shorten the throw with an MGW shift knob ($75) and a shorter SS shaft that you can get from places like Rich Detert ($25).

2) Replace with a complete shifter assy from B&M, Hurst or SVS for around $250-$300 plus install.

I did both actually.
 

ViperRichRT10

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I HATED the stock shifter. I tried the MGW shift knob first and am very happy. This is the first time I took the "cheap" route first and it worked!
 

4207henri

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I did the MGW shift knob first too, and then I shorten the shaft, and I liked it. But I figured for a few hundered dollars, why not try the B&M shifter, which I installed last week, and I love it!!! IT is definately more percise and smoother. The MGW shift knob will make a big difference though if you dont want to spend a lot of money.
 

KenH

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Two options

1) Shorten the throw with an MGW shift knob ($75) and a shorter SS shaft that you can get from places like Rich Detert ($25).

2) Replace with a complete shifter assy from B&M, Hurst or SVS for around $250-$300 plus install.

I did both actually.

Technically not until you have actually installed the parts ;)

To expand upon your options a little further.

- The MGW knob alone can shorten the throw some.

- Replacing the stock shaft can shorten the throw even more and also removes the rubber isolation bushing of the stock shaft so that the shift feel is a little more solid.

- Replacing the whole shifter assembly can possibly improve the feel of the shift gates, but the results that I have read have been mixed.

I went with the short shaft and MGW 1st strike knob and have been happy with that.
 

NOTV8

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Try the MGW, you might like it. Just my .02 cents.
 

ViperJohn

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I first did the MGW Knob, which was much better than stock.

Just put the Hurst on this weekend and love it!
 

diabolos88

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I installed the B&M, did not like it, was too notchy. Then I bought the SVS, its smoother and not as notchy, but you really need to have the correct gear "feel" or you will be missing gears. As a side note, the SVS shifter had to be shimmed a bit cuz it would not allow me to shift in reverse. But it was not a big deal. Shifts beautifully now.
I had done the MGW deal and also tried the West Coast Viper short shift "bolt" deal , didnt like either one. just my $.02
 

V10SpeedLuvr

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I just wanna double check this before I go out and buy a new shift knob... i have a 96' RT/10 w/the stock shifter. If I buy the MGW shift knob for $75, do I have to change out anything else or can that be done at a later point? right now, i'm just trying to get rid of the ugly (and about 4 foot tall) stock shifter knob. also, do the knobs just screw on and off or is installation more detailed? thanks guys
 

STUGOTS

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Two options

1) Shorten the throw with an MGW shift knob ($75) and a shorter SS shaft that you can get from places like Rich Detert ($25).

2) Replace with a complete shifter assy from B&M, Hurst or SVS for around $250-$300 plus install.

I did both actually.

Technically not until you have actually installed the parts ;)

very true lol Wish I could alot of these things myself man, you would NOT believe the parts I have here laying around TONZ.
 

Randy

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Two options

1) Shorten the throw with an MGW shift knob ($75) and a shorter SS shaft that you can get from places like Rich Detert ($25).

2) Replace with a complete shifter assy from B&M, Hurst or SVS for around $250-$300 plus install.
Actually, there's a choice "1b" - shorten the factory shift knob/shaft. Its not that hard; just unscrew it then cut about 1.5" off the shaft then re-thread it (or have it re-threaded). This is what I did.

Personally, I liked the stock connelly color-matched ball than I did any of the aftermarkets knobs. Although it seems most people hate the balls knobs on the later Gen II cars.
 
OP
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J

JUCD VPR

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Does your B&M or Hurst shifter sit real low. I saw pics on a post way back in the day of a srt/10 with a hurst shifter and it sat really low. Could anyone post some pics of their B&M or Hurst shifters?
 

Randy

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For others reading the thread, note that it really depends on what year car you currently have. I replaced the shifter in my '95 with a B&M "Ripper" when the stock shifter came apart (separated at the isolation bushing - common failure) at 60,181 miles on the odo. Yet, compared to the stock Gen I shifter, I wasn't that impressed with the B&M, despite everyone that was telling me it was a better shifter.

Then I got a gen II car, and now I understand whats happening - all of those people recommending the B&M were gen II owners, and the gen II shifter is worse than the gen I shifter, it seems (at least the gen II shifter on my '00 doesn't feel near as tight and crisp as the B&M).

So, if you currently have a gen I car, I wouldn't recommend the change, at least not to a B&M. If you have a gen II car, then many people say its an improvement (I'm still using the stock crappy shifter on my gen II, and can't comment on any improvement from personal experience).
 

ROCKET62

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Randy,

Have to respectfully disagree about your Gen 1 generalization. By far, the best mod I've done to my Viper was changing the shifter. I chose B&M and couldn't be happier - nice crisp shifts, no guessing what gear I'm reaching for, and a very short throw with the MGW First Strike knob.
 

Randy

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Randy,
Have to respectfully disagree about your Gen 1 generalization. By far, the best mod I've done to my Viper was changing the shifter. I chose B&M and couldn't be happier - nice crisp shifts, no guessing what gear I'm reaching for, and a very short throw with the MGW First Strike knob.
Hmmmm... Don't know what the deal was, then. I never had any problems with my gen I shifter, until it failed. When I put the B&M in, while it was crisp, etc and a fine shifter, I did find myself almost missing shifts where I never had any problem before. Perhaps it was because I was simply used to the stock shifter - I didn't put the B&M on until 60k miles, so I was very used to the original shifter, and the B&M was enough different that it was problematic to me - I had to fumble a couple of shifts on the track at Laguna Seca, which really stuck in my mind as a detraction.
 
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