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What clucth / pp / flywheel combo are you guys making big power using? Guys running Paxton's, Twin Turbos, or ? Cost / availability?
Big power - What clutch, pp, flywheel combo?
- Thread starter Viper X
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BigCarrot
Enthusiast
I used the Spec clutch in mine, and it was a little chattery, but not too bad. I think I'd try Centerforce next time.
If you want the real bad boy, go with McLeod Twin Disk Assembly with aluminum flywheel. It will hold up to 1000 RWHP.
I'm not sure if Exedy makes a clutch for the SRT-10's. They have the Exedy Triple Disk with carbon disks which will hold 1100+ RWHP.
Are you slipping your current clutch?
I'm not sure if Exedy makes a clutch for the SRT-10's. They have the Exedy Triple Disk with carbon disks which will hold 1100+ RWHP.
Are you slipping your current clutch?
OP
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BigCarrot,
The Centerforce dual friction clutch / pp is being installed today. I'll let you guys know how it feels / works. Several have told me the "spec" chatters a bit.
Did the "slow roast" to the LUK OEM replacement clutch. I got about 5000 miles out of it, which wasn't too bad. Started smelling it after some spirited runs to ... er 120 +. Still waiting for the promised "carbon / carbon" setup.
Insomniac, yes, as above, clutch started slipping / burning. Those of you with Paxtons will understand, the slipping begins at about 50 mph in first and happened again at about 80 in second. Already have the RPS segmented light weight flywheel, which I love. Will look into the McLeod twin disk. Don't know about Exedy either but will look.
Sooner or later, many of us will need a good solution to this problem after adding the Paxton, the new Z-06 is coming.... and I plan to stomp a few of these as soon as I see them. It seems the stock clutch is good for about 600 at the wheels, which is pretty stout for a stock clutch, but won't hold the Paxton's power increase for long.
Thanks for the responses. Keep them coming.
Dan
The Centerforce dual friction clutch / pp is being installed today. I'll let you guys know how it feels / works. Several have told me the "spec" chatters a bit.
Did the "slow roast" to the LUK OEM replacement clutch. I got about 5000 miles out of it, which wasn't too bad. Started smelling it after some spirited runs to ... er 120 +. Still waiting for the promised "carbon / carbon" setup.
Insomniac, yes, as above, clutch started slipping / burning. Those of you with Paxtons will understand, the slipping begins at about 50 mph in first and happened again at about 80 in second. Already have the RPS segmented light weight flywheel, which I love. Will look into the McLeod twin disk. Don't know about Exedy either but will look.
Sooner or later, many of us will need a good solution to this problem after adding the Paxton, the new Z-06 is coming.... and I plan to stomp a few of these as soon as I see them. It seems the stock clutch is good for about 600 at the wheels, which is pretty stout for a stock clutch, but won't hold the Paxton's power increase for long.
Thanks for the responses. Keep them coming.
Dan
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First impressions,
1 - Centerforce pressure plate is a modded LUK (OEM) unit. 1.5 lbs lighter with a ring and small weights around the "fingers". This is to create centrifugal force on the pp to increase the clamping ability as rpms increase. Seems like a food idea and it couldn't hurt, if it works. "Donut" shaped part that clamps against clutch disk appears to have been shaved. Maybe this is where the weight savings comes from. Cover is painted orange. Not sure of any other changes to the mechanism.
2 - Dual friction clutch disk is segmented more than a stock disc and slightly thicker. My installer described it as "grabby" with some chatter and needing some break in time. It is grabby, with some chatter and not broken in yet, but not as bad as many others I've used. Hopefully it will get smoother with another couple hundred miles.
3 - Holding power is good so far, but no full throttle yet. We'll see.
4 - Drivability is like stock, pedal about like stock.
Hopefully, this one will last longer than (5000 miles) the last one.
Dan
1 - Centerforce pressure plate is a modded LUK (OEM) unit. 1.5 lbs lighter with a ring and small weights around the "fingers". This is to create centrifugal force on the pp to increase the clamping ability as rpms increase. Seems like a food idea and it couldn't hurt, if it works. "Donut" shaped part that clamps against clutch disk appears to have been shaved. Maybe this is where the weight savings comes from. Cover is painted orange. Not sure of any other changes to the mechanism.
2 - Dual friction clutch disk is segmented more than a stock disc and slightly thicker. My installer described it as "grabby" with some chatter and needing some break in time. It is grabby, with some chatter and not broken in yet, but not as bad as many others I've used. Hopefully it will get smoother with another couple hundred miles.
3 - Holding power is good so far, but no full throttle yet. We'll see.
4 - Drivability is like stock, pedal about like stock.
Hopefully, this one will last longer than (5000 miles) the last one.
Dan
DSR207
Enthusiast
Thanks for posting that info Dan, I'm sure sooner or later will be doing the same.
Skip White
Enthusiast
The Center Force is as Dan say's, and the Spec is off my list. The RPS is grabby and will allways have a bit of chatter, but not all the time. Much loss of drivability in a way. But you do get used to it.
Carbon/Carbon coming soon, answer to our prayers.
It is the absolute solution.
Center Force is very drivable, but really will not last on heavy modded cars. The centrifuagal weights do in fact work. This clutch clamps down very well, but I really don't like much about them.
RPS is tough, as it uses a 6 puck disc, and will not slip, pedel pressure is only slightly more. It is a some what short life setup, but is rebuildable, for a very low cost. If you drag race this clutch will lung forward in second in a very controlled maner. The oem unit doe's in fact slip going into second, unde full load. But a car with street tires can actually benifit from this. The RPS really takes constant practice to get the best out of it.
Aggresive take offs are a bit challanging with the RPS setup, as well as normal takeoffs, to keep the chatter down.
Segmented flywheels are the way to go.
Just to let you guys know, I'm hooked up with one of the sharpest clutch guys in the country. I can get you what you need. Carbon/Carbon may be worth waiting for. The Viper deserves, and needs this.
You guys need anything to do with clutches, give me a call. My new number is 423-288-3881 or 817-988-4760 I really have put some time in on this subject.
Last but not least, the oem LUK unit is a very nice unit, and super low in cost,(through me) but it is not for the drag race minded. You can get good results when running oem tires, as they put very little strain on the clutch. Drag radials will smoke an oem clutch easily.
Clutch builders have left the Viper community standing, as the production numbers are so low. But they are comming around.
The LS1 and Vette community have many wonderfull setups, that handle huge amounts of power, and never give trouble.
Carbon/Carbon coming soon, answer to our prayers.
It is the absolute solution.
Center Force is very drivable, but really will not last on heavy modded cars. The centrifuagal weights do in fact work. This clutch clamps down very well, but I really don't like much about them.
RPS is tough, as it uses a 6 puck disc, and will not slip, pedel pressure is only slightly more. It is a some what short life setup, but is rebuildable, for a very low cost. If you drag race this clutch will lung forward in second in a very controlled maner. The oem unit doe's in fact slip going into second, unde full load. But a car with street tires can actually benifit from this. The RPS really takes constant practice to get the best out of it.
Aggresive take offs are a bit challanging with the RPS setup, as well as normal takeoffs, to keep the chatter down.
Segmented flywheels are the way to go.
Just to let you guys know, I'm hooked up with one of the sharpest clutch guys in the country. I can get you what you need. Carbon/Carbon may be worth waiting for. The Viper deserves, and needs this.
You guys need anything to do with clutches, give me a call. My new number is 423-288-3881 or 817-988-4760 I really have put some time in on this subject.
Last but not least, the oem LUK unit is a very nice unit, and super low in cost,(through me) but it is not for the drag race minded. You can get good results when running oem tires, as they put very little strain on the clutch. Drag radials will smoke an oem clutch easily.
Clutch builders have left the Viper community standing, as the production numbers are so low. But they are comming around.
The LS1 and Vette community have many wonderfull setups, that handle huge amounts of power, and never give trouble.
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Hey Skip,
Looking forward to the carbon / carbon set up.
Dan
Looking forward to the carbon / carbon set up.
Dan
Skip White
Enthusiast
I'm thinking the C/C clutch setup uses it's own special flywheel that has a carbon coating on it. The price is a bit high, but not so much due to the, "Viper Tax". It's high for any car, and low production will raise the price.
Just let me supply them for you guys, and their never will be a Viper tax to worry about.
I can't really say what the price is, but I'll check on it Monday.
Just let me supply them for you guys, and their never will be a Viper tax to worry about.
I can't really say what the price is, but I'll check on it Monday.
There is already a Carbon / Carbon clutch out there for Viper SRT-10.
RPS Billet Carbon Clutch
http://www.turboclutch.com/billet_chrys.html
RPS Billet Carbon Clutch
http://www.turboclutch.com/billet_chrys.html
wow, nice find. Price seems a bit high. Is this normal for C/C applications? If the clutch is infact this good, I might opt for one...however, I don't know how high I plan to take my power levels. 3,000 could get you a lot of things...
edretti
Enthusiast
Ok, I have a question. I know it's not clutch related so sorry. How in the world does a car with this much hp (paxton) much less a twin turbo hook up with 1000+ hp? What's the best tire or whatever combo? I hear that you break the tires loose at 70mph as it is, what works best?
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Heard good things about visions of speed from others.
OK, so what's the price for 1, 3, 5 10, etc?
Dan
OK, so what's the price for 1, 3, 5 10, etc?
Dan
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I don't mind buying another back up clutch right now, if the price / performance is right, I know I'll need it. Let me know on the group buy.
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Just hit 650 miles with the new Dual Friction clutch / pp combo from Centerforce and the grabbiness / chatter is almost completely gone. Clutch is breaking in nicely and is very streetable with about the same pedal effort as stock.
The pedal feels so light that I'm not confident that it is holding the power but no slipping felt yet either. Time will tell.
Dan
The pedal feels so light that I'm not confident that it is holding the power but no slipping felt yet either. Time will tell.
Dan
