Blew up a half-shaft. Any suggestions?

[Barrels]

I hit a 1-2 upshift too hard this weekend and heard a nasty snap and looked to see bearings jumping down the street.

Where can I get a good deal on a halfshaft and is there anything viper-specific I need to know for the install?

 

[Barrels]

Did a search and found a write-up on the repair procedure. Seems straightforward enough.

I still need some suggestions on where to find a decent deal on a drive's side halfshaft for a 03. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Roysviper]

Go ahead and spend the money and get UNITREX halfshafts!!!!

 

[Canyon707]

Not sure of the year Viper you have but, when I broke mine I found it to be a hollow shaft. The new ones are solid. I think unitrax would be your best bet. Talk to Deven and he can tell you what will work the best for your needs.

 

[Barrels]

Not sure of the year Viper you have but, when I broke mine I found it to be a hollow shaft. The new ones are solid. I think unitrax would be your best bet. Talk to Deven and he can tell you what will work the best for your needs.

It's an 03. I only have an intake at this point but will probably add a full exhaust and dyno tune later this year. I probably will never be above 500rwhp. I mainly use the car for weekend driving and track days.

Judging by my experience and the experiences of others on this forum, it seems like the halfshafts are only a problem during the 1-2 upshift under hard acceleration. My shaft didn't actually break. The joint at the wheel broke somewhere and the bearings came out.

I think I just need another stock shaft and a little softer touch going from 1-2. Any good ideas on where to find a good deal on a stock shaft?

 

[SoCal Rebell]

Go ahead and spend the money and get UNITREX halfshafts!!!!

X2..

 

[Darbgnik]

Looks like Paul Scharf has a used one on eBay for 330. I dunno if thats good though, as I don't know how much a new one is.

 

[HSSSSSS]

Looks like Paul Scharf has a used one on eBay for 330. I dunno if thats good though, as I don't know how much a new one is.

You are just an enthusiast?? you are having trouble with your renewal too?

 

[BlackSnake99]

X2..

Better listen to Ron, he's on death's doorstep.

 

[Barrels]

Looks like Paul Scharf has a used one on eBay for 330. I dunno if thats good though, as I don't know how much a new one is.

Thanks for the heads-up. I was searching for "halfshaft" instead of "axle" and didn't see much.

My two ebay options are:
Paul: $348.37
Xvipers: $382.36

I am new to the viper community so I am not familiar with either vendor. Any reason I shouldn't go with the cheaper one?

 

[AZTVR]

Based on posts here , I would not hesitate to buy from Paul Scharf although I haven't dealt with them since I haven't needed any used parts. There are several other excellent vendors here.

The second source that you mentioned has been discussed a lot. Do a search : http://www.google.com/search?source...S389US389&q=xvipers+site:forums.viperclub.org

 

[Darbgnik]

You are just an enthusiast?? you are having trouble with your renewal too?

Nah.... since these forums went downhill for a while I didn't see the point in renewing. Plus there was only ever two VCA events I ever attended, and those were Gregs.

Since then, I've met up with Greg at events outside the ones he put on for everyone.


But you never know, lately this board has been pretty good to be a part of again. I mostly am on here for the help/technical part. No real interest in big gangsta rims, and youtube links. Which was all that was seemingly on here for a while.


LOL..... flame away.

 

[Darbgnik]

Thanks for the heads-up. I was searching for "halfshaft" instead of "axle" and didn't see much.

My two ebay options are:
Paul: $348.37
Xvipers: $382.36

I am new to the viper community so I am not familiar with either vendor. Any reason I shouldn't go with the cheaper one?

I've also heard good things about Paul, and terrible things about XVipers, although my experience with them has been quite satisfactory.

 

[Viper Parts of America]

List price from Mopar is $752.00 for a brand new one, part #05038200AB. Check your PM's.

 

[Doug Supercharged Vipers]

List price from Mopar is $752.00 for a brand new one, part #05038200AB. Check your PM's.

Best Option right here!

Be careful purchasing used axles. Not implying you shouldn't buy one, although used axles take a lot of stress. If your budget allows consider new.

Good Luck!

 

[Barrels]

Best Option right here!

Be careful purchasing used axles. Not implying you shouldn't buy one, although used axles take a lot of stress. If your budget allows consider new.

Good Luck!

My budget allows, but it seems like kind of a waste. I found a good deal through a forum member, so I can buy two used shafts for about what a new one would cost. My labor is free and it seems like a simple swap.

Also, it seems like the problem is usually scenario rather than the part itself. Wheel-hop or a high-traction forceful 1-2 upshift is as likely to snap a new shaft as it is a used one.

If I snap two used ones I promise to come back on here and apologize and take my beating. Thanks for the help guys.

 

[HSSSSSS]

Wheel-hop or a high-traction forceful 1-2 upshift is as likely to snap a new shaft as it is a used one.

.

Most of my upshifts are forceful.If it can't hack it put in stronger. I ended up putting in a short shifter because I broke the shifter right off on a 2-3 shift.

 

[Roysviper]

Most of my upshifts are forceful

Next time don't be so forceful!!

 

[Canyon707]

I just got mine fixed this time it was the passenger side half shaft. I thought these were race cars.

 

[ViperGeorge]

Good decision to stick with a stock half shaft. If you go with a stronger unit you simply move the weakest link in the drive train to some other more expensive part like the rear end or trans.

 

[Viper Specialty]

I just got mine fixed this time it was the passenger side half shaft. I thought these were race cars.

You might be driving well outside the limits of the OEM shafts with regard to wheel hop, or are on sticky tires with an alternate rear gear.

There are aftermarket solutions, but strong and cheap don't go in the same sentence. I don't believe Unitrax is making these shafts anymore if I recall... so there is only really one option left.

 

[Viper Specialty]

Good decision to stick with a stock half shaft. If you go with a stronger unit you simply move the weakest link in the drive train to some other more expensive part like the rear end or trans.

I would have to disagree. The goal should be to move the weakness to traction, and keep it there. With a decent diff [Quaife, Giken, or Visco] and good shafts, that's basically where it ends up short of slicks. Broken shafts are very dangerous. I would take a broken transmission at high speed over a shaft any day of the week.

 

[Stealth]

I would always start by contacting JON B. at partsrack to check on the type of part you need for your applicaiton and the best deal.

 

[Black Moon]

Are the newer (solid) half shafts that much stronger than the Gen 3's? Was thinking about an upgrade since adding the Paxton and 355's.

 

[Canyon707]

The factory changed there hollow shafts to solid. They must have known they were a weak point. I am sure with the increased Hp in the newer models and all the torque it was the right thing to do. All the retro fits now are solid shafts.

 

[Canyon707]

I am sure they would be stronger. The Gen 3 shafts have a built in shear grove and thats where they seem to break. Reasoning for the grove I couldn't tell you.

 

[Viper Specialty]

Are the newer (solid) half shafts that much stronger than the Gen 3's? Was thinking about an upgrade since adding the Paxton and 355's.

Stronger than the Hollow shafts? Yes. However, the OEM shafts are only as strong as their CV cages, stub shafts, and outer CV flanges. And needless to say.... that isn't all that much stronger. Putting solid shafts into OE CV's is certainly better than nothing and will fix most issues, but if you make big power and run sticky tires, it probably won't last forever either. Getting the cages replaced helps, but they aren't easy to find. The only real solution is to just replace it all and go back to the drawing board... only problem is cost.

It can be done a few ways:

-300M Shafts w/size 21 CV flanges inner and outer and wheel hubs to match [Rated Wheels UP on slicks]
-300M Shafts w/size 15 CV flanges inner/outer, OE outer splines [Rated 1250 w/DR's]
-300M Shafts w/size 15 CV flanges inner/outer, OE outer splines, OE stub coupler [Rated 1000 w/DR's]


The first 2 options replace the stub shaft assembly with a splined flange, and can be made direct-fit onto OEM, Giken or Quaife differentials. The last option retains the stub shaft and attaches to it like an OEM axle shaft.

 

[Canyon707]

Good to know I think I will look at getting that done. I realize that there is always a weak link.

 

[ZDigital1]

I hit a 1-2 upshift too hard this weekend and heard a nasty snap and looked to see bearings jumping down the street.

Where can I get a good deal on a halfshaft and is there anything viper-specific I need to know for the install?

I have a pair that I will let go for a very reasonable price if interested.
I am in the process of making some serious drivetrain upgrades. They came out of a 2003 vert with 8000 miles. PM me if interested.
Scott

 

[Canyon707]

I have a pair that I will let go for a very reasonable price if interested.
I am in the process of making some serious drivetrain upgrades. They came out of a 2003 vert with 8000 miles. PM me if interested.
Scott

Scott what upgrades do you have in mind?