Phoenix SRT
Enthusiast
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- Apr 17, 2003
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I took my SRT-10 on the track recently and experienced some brake fade after about 15 minutes. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fortify the SRT's brakes?
Here are the circumstances: First, it was a fairly casual event. I wasn't racing wheel to wheel, nor even being timed, for that matter. By and large, I was driving at about 80% or so...the track doesn't have much in the way of barriers to hit, but going off would still cause more damage (dirt/stones to the paint and wheels) than I cared to risk by trying get the last bit of lap time.
Anyway, I completely changed the brake fluid from the factory fill to Castrol SRF immediately before the event. I'm told by a Viper racer (with Grand Am events on his resume) that the SRF beats Motul 600 for longevity and is just as good when it comes to not boiling. Whether the SRF is as good as the Motul may be subject to debate, but the SRF is plenty good stuff and is unlikely to be the problem. The pads and the rest of the brake system are OE.
The track has two places which required braking down from 120 or so to, maybe, 60-ish or a bit less (hey, I was fairly busy and didn't really concentrate on the speedometer). The track (Arizona Motorsports Park) has about 12 turns in total, though I forget the exact number. Air temperature was in the 80s.
My theory on braking is that I paid for the ABS, so I should use it - I threshold brake by engaging the ABS. (For those of you who think that is not the way to do it, please save it for another thread, as that is not the issue here. Thanks.) After about 15 minutes of this, the brakes started to fade. I still got some braking, but not enough to engage the ABS.
I've heard and read that the SRT's brakes are about as good as street brakes get, so what can I do to get 'em to last for a 20 or 30 minute session? Different pads? Better cooling? Throw 'em out and put on Stop Techs? It's not like I experienced a little fade after an hour lapping at Road America. I could understand that (my Gen 1's brakes didn't last 3 laps at RA!), but why won't they last at a fairly slow track like like AMP?
Here are the circumstances: First, it was a fairly casual event. I wasn't racing wheel to wheel, nor even being timed, for that matter. By and large, I was driving at about 80% or so...the track doesn't have much in the way of barriers to hit, but going off would still cause more damage (dirt/stones to the paint and wheels) than I cared to risk by trying get the last bit of lap time.
Anyway, I completely changed the brake fluid from the factory fill to Castrol SRF immediately before the event. I'm told by a Viper racer (with Grand Am events on his resume) that the SRF beats Motul 600 for longevity and is just as good when it comes to not boiling. Whether the SRF is as good as the Motul may be subject to debate, but the SRF is plenty good stuff and is unlikely to be the problem. The pads and the rest of the brake system are OE.
The track has two places which required braking down from 120 or so to, maybe, 60-ish or a bit less (hey, I was fairly busy and didn't really concentrate on the speedometer). The track (Arizona Motorsports Park) has about 12 turns in total, though I forget the exact number. Air temperature was in the 80s.
My theory on braking is that I paid for the ABS, so I should use it - I threshold brake by engaging the ABS. (For those of you who think that is not the way to do it, please save it for another thread, as that is not the issue here. Thanks.) After about 15 minutes of this, the brakes started to fade. I still got some braking, but not enough to engage the ABS.
I've heard and read that the SRT's brakes are about as good as street brakes get, so what can I do to get 'em to last for a 20 or 30 minute session? Different pads? Better cooling? Throw 'em out and put on Stop Techs? It's not like I experienced a little fade after an hour lapping at Road America. I could understand that (my Gen 1's brakes didn't last 3 laps at RA!), but why won't they last at a fairly slow track like like AMP?