Changing brake pads

[Red94Roadster]

I'm going to change my brake pads to EBC Greens for the first time on my 94 RT/10. I've reviewed the service manual and downloaded some of the various tips that have been posted on this forum. A couple of questions remain:

Is it necessary to surface the rotors every time you change the pads? How can I determine if they're damaged and need resurfacing?

I've personally never changed pads myself, but have a close friend who has changed his several times before (not a Viper, though). Is this a job that I should be able to tackle? I'm quite mechanically inclined, just never have done brakes before.

Once the old pads are removed, what cleaning/preparation procedures need to be followed prior to installing the new ones? Sand rotors? Brake dust cleaner? ??

What is the proper break in proceudre for EBC Greens?

Lastly, do you guys paint the outside of your greens or leave them? I have a red car and don't want to look like a Christmas tree???

Thanks

 

[V10SpeedLuvr]

"Is it necessary to surface the rotors every time you change the pads? How can I determine if they're damaged and need resurfacing?"

Its a good idea to do so. On Vipers, I've heard you should only cut them once and then replace the next time. I've also heard you should just replace the rotors and not cut them even once.

"I've personally never changed pads myself, but have a close friend who has changed his several times before (not a Viper, though). Is this a job that I should be able to tackle? I'm quite mechanically inclined, just never have done brakes before."

Easy job. under one hour to do both front and rear and replace rotors at same time

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

under one hour to do both front and rear and replace rotors at same time

Except for the part about lifting the car, removing the wheels, and then reinstalling the wheels and lowering the car when done. Not to mention brake bleeding. Oh, and let's hope that rear piston isn't a b*tch like it was on both of my Vipers the first couple times.

Maybe a couple hours for you young bucks, but us old guys plan on an afternoon.

 

[V10SpeedLuvr]

I guess my estimate was skewed. The guy I helped do it had a lift, power tools, etc. so everything was real easy and he had done quite a few Viper brake jobs in the past. If you're mechanically inclined, but inexperienced, Chuck's estimates are more accurate

 

[Andrew2KRT10]

Change the rotors when you do the pads? You have to be kidding me. Not me, and I stop fine. Never cut them either, something for the spring....

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Please twist on the rear brake pistons - dont' use any hammers. The ONLY way they retract is by rotating them because they are literally on a threaded rod.

The piston sits over the left side of the threaded rod on the cone shaped part. The right side gets pushed when you pull on the parking brake.

 

[Warfang]

I had hoped for an illustrated guide here on the steps, but I guess it would be too complicated. And I also figure nobody wants to be sued for a bad brake job after following the instructions here.

 

[Steve-Indy]

There WAS a complete guide here a few years ago...with many photos...got lost when photo server site went under. Have asked Jay if he could/would redo the post and put it in the upgrade section but apparently that is not possible.

 

[Tom F&L GoR]

Working on a rear caliper swap guide...

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

I had hoped for an illustrated guide here on the steps, but I guess it would be too complicated. And I also figure nobody wants to be sued for a bad brake job after following the instructions here.

Didn't you just install some EBCs?

 

[Warfang]

I had hoped for an illustrated guide here on the steps, but I guess it would be too complicated. And I also figure nobody wants to be sued for a bad brake job after following the instructions here.

Didn't you just install some EBCs?

You give me far too much credit... I should have said I had some EBC's installed.

Hard to believe I can actually build stuff with my hands, but just cherry ****** when it comes to working on cars.

If I can get someone to show me once, I can get it pretty quick.

 

[Fast Viper Dan]

Oh pitty on you WarFang, LOL
Call me and I will show/help you do it. When your still in your 40's you can do all four corners in 1 hr! (pads only)
Saratoga, 309-4075

 

[Chuck 98 RT/10]

I had hoped for an illustrated guide here on the steps, but I guess it would be too complicated. And I also figure nobody wants to be sued for a bad brake job after following the instructions here.

Didn't you just install some EBCs?

You give me far too much credit... I should have said I had some EBC's installed.

You can do it. It's not difficult.

 

[mntngts99]

http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=4111847&a=30671577&sp=1

 

[RAYSIR]

It's Okay to do a pad slap and not surface rotors on your own car. As a service shop owner I don't do it since New pads are flat. The Old Rotors and pads wore in together so you have different thickness at the inner to outer surface of the rotor and it's different on each side of the car. Consequently when you don't true up everything it takes 3-5000 miles for the New pads to set full face on both sides to uneven rotors. Usually this causes a pull to one side when brakes are applied until the full seat in with miles.So if I don't surface I get a comeback complaint. Also you can use a brake rotor over and over until it is below minimum thickness. Even taxis go to .040 under min.legally. The min.thickness is usually because they will overheat and warp easy below min. If the brakes don't pulsate don't surface and slap it. But don't be alarmed if you have a pull til the set in. Also, paint them any color you want it won't matter. Wouldn't get any on the face of pads though.

 

[grcforce327]

Get a pair of Tom's 40mm rear calipers while you're at it!!!!!You won't regret it!!!

 

[ryan94rt10]

hey brad

what if you are swapping rotors on the front and back...do you still need to worry about alignment?...ie the chalk line on the back rotor.