Creampuff Transformation - Greg Good Implants

vpr4track

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This.

Seems like the absolute most expensive way to make power. As long as OP enjoys it though.

It depends where you shop. I have Greg Good heads & all the trimmings for under $4,000. I can't believe someone would pay more for the same stuff.
 

Viper Grenade

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[FONT="]There are some things about a N/A build that are nice. Stock like reliability is one of them. Way less things can go wrong[/FONT]

That's not even really true these days. Mild SC (like a ROE @ 8-10psi) or TT system (RSI Street kit @ 8-10psi) when keept in low boost make more power and last just as long as a N/A engine. The issue with FI is everyone keeps leaning on it until the motor pops. There are at least a million factory turbo or sc cars out that have over 100,000mi. Keep the boost below (8-10psi) and you will never see issues with a proper SC or TT system.
 

FastMatt

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That's not even really true these days. Mild SC (like a ROE @ 8-10psi) or TT system (RSI Street kit @ 8-10psi) when keept in low boost make more power and last just as long as a N/A engine. The issue with FI is everyone keeps leaning on it until the motor pops. There are at least a million factory turbo or sc cars out that have over 100,000mi. Keep the boost below (8-10psi) and you will never see issues with a proper SC or TT system.

I'm with you as long as there built right, the problem is over the yrs I have seen quite a few FI Vipers built by a few different shops and they all had plenty of other "problems" even when the motor was sound. From fuel leaks, to bad fuel small ******* threw the braided lines, to oil leaks (lots of them), problems with oil scavenge pumps, and even gravid drain problems. To things like drive ability problems to drive line problems from too much power. And most of the gen 2 FI cars are pledged with overheating problems at least around here were it can reach 110+ deg in the summer.

I have a heads/cam/paxton 2001 thats making over 900 rwhp that has been totally reliable for the last 2 yrs with FI, and was totally reliable for 5 yrs before that as a heads/cam car making 612 rwhp. But I built it my self and did not cheep out on anything that I thought to be required to make the car not only powerful but reliable. But I also did not go overboard and do things that are not necessary.

That being said there are times I think of removing the Paxton and just going back to being a heads/cam car just because frankly 600 rwhp is more "usable" then 900 rwhp is on the street. Even with 345/30R18 MT drags 1st and 2ng gear are useless. I think when my car was the best as a all around car was when it was a heads/cam car sure it was no were near as fast but all around it was "better". But maby I'm just getting old because there are times I have even thought about putting the stock creampuff cam back in it to have it drive totaly like a stock car only faster:)
 
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slitherv10

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I'm with you as long as there built right, the problem is over the yrs I have seen quite a few FI Vipers built by a few different shops and they all had plenty of other "problems" even when the motor was sound. From fuel leaks, to bad fuel small ******* threw the braided lines, to oil leaks (lots of them), problems with oil scavenge pumps, and even gravid drain problems. To things like drive ability problems to drive line problems from too much power. And most of the gen 2 FI cars are pledged with overheating problems at least around here were it can reach 110+ deg in the summer.

I have a heads/cam/paxton 2001 thats making over 900 rwhp that has been totally reliable for the last 2 yrs with FI, and was totally reliable for 5 yrs before that as a heads/cam car making 612 rwhp. But I built it my self and did not cheep out on anything that I thought to be required to make the car not only powerful but reliable. But I also did not go overboard and do things that are not necessary.

That being said there are times I think of removing the Paxton and just going back to being a heads/cam car just because frankly 600 rwhp is more "usable" then 900 rwhp is on the street. Even with 345/30R18 MT drags 1st and 2ng gear are useless. I think when my car was the best as a all around car was when it was a heads/cam car sure it was no were near as fast but all around it was "better". But maby I'm just getting old because there are times I have even thought about putting the stock creampuff cam back in it to have it drive totaly like a stock car only faster:)


So correct me if Im wrong

you had a heads/ cam car with 612rwhp and just adding a Paxton SC got you and extra 300RWHP....is that doable !!?
 

FastMatt

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So correct me if Im wrong

you had a heads/ cam car with 612rwhp and just adding a Paxton SC got you and extra 300RWHP....is that doable !!?

Prity much, I added the paxton, larger injectors, changed from balenger headers to AR headers and a paxton with a 3.25" pulley first and it made 873 rwhp at 6.5psi of boost. I then changed to a 3.0" pulley and it put down 909 rwhp at 8psi of boost.

I dont have a overlay for the 909 dyno but here is the 3.25" pullet 873 dyno and the heads/cam dyno overlay

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