dead battery
- Thread starter rt10guy
- Start date
dave6666
Enthusiast
Here in Texas we like to buy Interstate Batteries, a local company. As long as it has the 800 - 900 CCA, you should be OK on the brand of your choosing.
You are right about the wheel well thing. Yank the wheel, and a few different fasteners remove the panel. Wiggle the panel off and there is the battery.
You are right about the wheel well thing. Yank the wheel, and a few different fasteners remove the panel. Wiggle the panel off and there is the battery.
V10SpeedLuvr
Enthusiast
Do NOT buy an Optima battery. I'm on my 3rd one in 1.5 years. Its a 15-20 min job
dave6666
Enthusiast
What's the story behind the less than one year battery life? Are the batteries being damaged by the kicking screaming ******* girls in the trunk as you are smuggling them home? Or do you have the stereo to end all stereos?
V10SpeedLuvr
Enthusiast
I'm not the only one to report problems with Optimas in Vipers. However Optimas are made, just something doesnt seem to jive with the Viper electrical system. I still have the stock radio amps and noone rides in the trunk. I usually put 2-3 ******* girls in the passenger seat and one or two more on the decklid. The added weight on the decklid helps with traction problems and their boobs make great spoilers
It's not a bad job...goes well if you plan ahead and have tools ready.
Use a 3/4" (or 19mm) socket to remove left rear wheel. Then use 8mm, 11mm, and 10mm sockets to remove fasteners on splash shield in rear of fender well, and a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the plastic push pin that holds the battery cover to the splash guard...now disconnect the battery using 5/16" socket, and use a 1/2" socket to remove battery clamp.
Inspect the tray carefully...you will likely see corrosion...if so, neutralize it CAREFULLY by scrubbing with water and baking soda. DO NOT USE COMPRESSED AIR to clean this out !!!
After the area dries, I usually use a wire brush on an electric drill (wearing goggles and a respirator/face mask) to remove all remaining oxidation caused by the acid and/or rust. I wipe the tray WELL with rags, then allow it to dry. Then, after a couple more wipe-downs with ethyl alcohol to remore moisture, debris, and oils... I coat the tray bottom and sides with Rustoleum primer 2-3 times...and when dry, hit it with a couple of coats of Rustoleum black "engine gloss" even a semi-gloss. I have found that a used pizza box slid right under the battery tray makes a great "paint booth". After this is completely dry, install new battery (I PREFER a 75 series as they ALWAYS fit our various Vipers...and I always use a Sears Die-Hard Gold...noting that the LEAST amout of usage that these batteries have given me is 6.75 years). Then put it back together.
Note: SOME 94's will not start after battery disconnect...so you might wish to try it before installing the covers. If you have troubie...call me...or do a "search".
I do use a 9 volt battery plugged into the cigarette lighter...which maintains the clock and radio settings for a reasonable time.
HAVE FUN...and don't drop your Viper on yourself !!!
Use a 3/4" (or 19mm) socket to remove left rear wheel. Then use 8mm, 11mm, and 10mm sockets to remove fasteners on splash shield in rear of fender well, and a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the plastic push pin that holds the battery cover to the splash guard...now disconnect the battery using 5/16" socket, and use a 1/2" socket to remove battery clamp.
Inspect the tray carefully...you will likely see corrosion...if so, neutralize it CAREFULLY by scrubbing with water and baking soda. DO NOT USE COMPRESSED AIR to clean this out !!!
After the area dries, I usually use a wire brush on an electric drill (wearing goggles and a respirator/face mask) to remove all remaining oxidation caused by the acid and/or rust. I wipe the tray WELL with rags, then allow it to dry. Then, after a couple more wipe-downs with ethyl alcohol to remore moisture, debris, and oils... I coat the tray bottom and sides with Rustoleum primer 2-3 times...and when dry, hit it with a couple of coats of Rustoleum black "engine gloss" even a semi-gloss. I have found that a used pizza box slid right under the battery tray makes a great "paint booth". After this is completely dry, install new battery (I PREFER a 75 series as they ALWAYS fit our various Vipers...and I always use a Sears Die-Hard Gold...noting that the LEAST amout of usage that these batteries have given me is 6.75 years). Then put it back together.
Note: SOME 94's will not start after battery disconnect...so you might wish to try it before installing the covers. If you have troubie...call me...or do a "search".
I do use a 9 volt battery plugged into the cigarette lighter...which maintains the clock and radio settings for a reasonable time.
HAVE FUN...and don't drop your Viper on yourself !!!
I don't think the problem is just Vipers. IMO it has to do with cars that aren't used on a daily basis. When I store my cars for the winter I disconnect the batteries only to have the gell cells dead after a short time. The wet batteries stay charged even when left in freezing weather for 5 months. My shop stocks batteries but not the orbitals anymore. Too many problems with them up here.
Big thanks for everyone's help. Special thanks for your total how-to description Steve Indy. You should publish a workshop manual for amateurs. I'm dating myself but a German mechanic published VW for Dummies in the 60's and made a killing. Sorry about the late thanks.. Carl
carguy07
Viper Owner
Optima sold out to Johnson Controls a few years ago. I guess quality control has gone down hill with the switch.
A older one (pre Johnson Controls) will last forever
A older one (pre Johnson Controls) will last forever
http://forums.viperclub.org/showthread.php?t=604441&highlight=best+battery
This'll answer your question
This'll answer your question
96GTS
Enthusiast
Call JonB. at Parts Rack. He's a sponsor of this website, and a heck of a nice guy. Also ask about a battery tender if you don't drive you Viper much.
