Detailing Engine
- Thread starter Mike 123
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DaDood
Enthusiast
Simple Green has always worked well for me. I'll keep using it until someone says otherwise! And a little elbow grease does the trick.
Cover the very important electrical components such as Alternator and Fuse Boxes, using a general purpose cleaner diluted with water poured into a spray bottle and utilizing a paint brush, clean the hard to reach areas, let the product sit for a few minutes. Spray the engine thoroughly with a garden hose.
Repeat on any areas needing a more thorough cleaning, if you have an air compressor, air dry the engine compartment and finally wipe away any water residue.
After that you can utilize a product like a vinyl-and-rubber-protectant to dress the engine compartment.
Engine Bay AS Found
Engine Bay Detailed
I hope that helps
Repeat on any areas needing a more thorough cleaning, if you have an air compressor, air dry the engine compartment and finally wipe away any water residue.
After that you can utilize a product like a vinyl-and-rubber-protectant to dress the engine compartment.
Engine Bay AS Found
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Engine Bay Detailed
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I hope that helps
goldcup
Enthusiast
If it hasn't been cleaned and really dirty a non petroleum degreaser and a long bristled (soft) brush
Scrub everything. If hoses etc have that brown oxidation use rubber cleaner from griots. Does amazing things with rubber, especially tires. Rinse(I use a filtration system so I don't get water spots) hand dry. I don't like greasy dressings I'm more into the satin shine ( OEM look). I use a lot of tooth brushes Qtips etc. The small nooks and crannies when cleaned,polished seem to make all the difference when looking at it. But of course I have issues! By the way the dealership hacks spray everything with undercarriage spray which makes it all shiny and a 600 HP dust magnet! But idont have issues or well formed opinions!!
Scrub everything. If hoses etc have that brown oxidation use rubber cleaner from griots. Does amazing things with rubber, especially tires. Rinse(I use a filtration system so I don't get water spots) hand dry. I don't like greasy dressings I'm more into the satin shine ( OEM look). I use a lot of tooth brushes Qtips etc. The small nooks and crannies when cleaned,polished seem to make all the difference when looking at it. But of course I have issues! By the way the dealership hacks spray everything with undercarriage spray which makes it all shiny and a 600 HP dust magnet! But idont have issues or well formed opinions!!
In addition to Tito's comments I would recommend you buy a batch of white parade gloves. When worn serve as deep access cleaners - particularly in hard to get places. Rubbing alcohol on fiber cloth works well to remove stickiy substances.....Good old armor all on the hoses. If you are careful thinner will remove black residue on wires....I use small dabs and careful not to get on painted surfaces. WD-40 works well on parts that show salt residue.....
I just took my FGT to a higher standard using these methods...
I just took my FGT to a higher standard using these methods...
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goldcup
Enthusiast
Sweet looking Ford!
Junkman2008
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Something I use on the engine for the really tough stubborn spots is brake cleaner and a toothbrush. You don't spray the cleaner directly on the engine, rather the tooth brush and scrub away. Of course you don't want to do this to painted parts or chrome, just to aluminum or metal parts. For chrome or painted areas with stubborn spots, I'll still use the brake cleaner but I will use it on a quality microfiber towel. It doesn't take a lot! Just a squirt will work wonders on a stubborn stain.
Before:
After:
Once I get the engine clean, I will dress it down with some Adam's In & Out Spray. This stuff looks amazing when used sparingly and leaves the engine looking new, not like something you'll see on a used car lot. This product alone is responsible for 20% of the Adam's bottom line so you know it is selling like crack!
Before:
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After:
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Once I get the engine clean, I will dress it down with some Adam's In & Out Spray. This stuff looks amazing when used sparingly and leaves the engine looking new, not like something you'll see on a used car lot. This product alone is responsible for 20% of the Adam's bottom line so you know it is selling like crack!
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goldcup
Enthusiast
Just ordered a can of IN&OUT looking forward to trying it.
I really dislike websites where you HAVE to "register" and fill out pages of info for a simple purchase.
I just want to buy something and leave with no further communication from that vendor unless I want it.
Most websites have an option to do so, Adam should look into it.
I just want to buy something and leave with no further communication from that vendor unless I want it.
Most websites have an option to do so, Adam should look into it.
Junkman2008
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I felt the same way when I first went to their site too. However, once I realized that that's how they are able to track what you buy so that you can receive a full refund if you don't like the product, I was cool with it. It is how the site works behind the scenes that makes registration important.
Use it sparingly! A little bit goes a long way.
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jmillsUT28
Enthusiast
I own a large e-commerce website and have found 30% of customers do not and will not register just so they can order a part.
thompsonracing
Viper Owner
I use Adam's APC to clean the engine bay. For the really nasty stuff, like on my diesel truck, I agree with Junk. Brake Clean is the way to go. CRC is down the street from us and we get cases from them for FREE, so we go through a lot of it!
I don't recommend using Armor All as it is alcohol-based and will eventually dry out and brown your rubber and plastic.
Agree with Junkman, In&Out is the way to go! It is great for all those hard to reach hoses and wires. In&Out is sold in a 3 pack and I'll throw in a couple FREE block pads with each 3 pack.
I hit all the trim on this Ford GT with In&Out and it completely woke up 6 year old plastic!
My site is outdated, but you can order Adam's stuff from me through email/paypal. I can work some good deals out over email, better than on most sites. Will have the site updated soon!
[email protected]
I don't recommend using Armor All as it is alcohol-based and will eventually dry out and brown your rubber and plastic.
Agree with Junkman, In&Out is the way to go! It is great for all those hard to reach hoses and wires. In&Out is sold in a 3 pack and I'll throw in a couple FREE block pads with each 3 pack.
I hit all the trim on this Ford GT with In&Out and it completely woke up 6 year old plastic!
You must be registered for see images
You must be registered for see images
My site is outdated, but you can order Adam's stuff from me through email/paypal. I can work some good deals out over email, better than on most sites. Will have the site updated soon!
[email protected]
goldcup
Enthusiast
Just got the IN & OUT but unfortunately have a full day of work before I can try it out.
WORK *****
WORK *****
dave6666
Enthusiast
FYI WD40 is corrosive to belts and non silicone hoses. Brake cleaners too. They make a great shine because you are actually removing/dissolving a layer of the polymer.
eucharistos
Enthusiast
what would y'all cover (if anything, i know some detailers don't cover anything) on a gen 2 motor
do any of you use a pressure washer
do y'all spray wd40 on electrical connections 1st
how secure is the red paint on the valve covers
i want make my engine compartment look as good as you guys'
tia
Matt M PA
Enthusiast
I never heard that ArmorAll was alcohol based...I thought they were water based silicones?
Slithr
Enthusiast
Morgan (Tomball Dodge Viper Tech) reminded me, that when spraying water under the hood, a piece of tape should be put over the vent hole of the clutch fluid reservoir. This should prevent water from getting into clutch fluid, like he found in mine
Hello Matt, you may find your information here
MSDS Sheet
http://www.thecloroxcompany.com/products/msds/armorallstp/armoralloriginalprotectant1-98.pdf
Junkman2008
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The only thing you want to use the brake cleaner on is metal, steel or aluminum.
what would y'all cover (if anything, i know some detailers don't cover anything) on a gen 2 motor
do any of you use a pressure washer
do y'all spray wd40 on electrical connections 1st
how secure is the red paint on the valve covers
i want make my engine compartment look as good as you guys'
tia
Never use high pressure water in the engine bay. You wash the engine down with car soap after treating it with the degreaser of your choice. Adam's APC is a good one as Eric pointed out.
Always cover the alternator and don't force a lot of water around anything. The less water you use to clean the motor, the better.
never high pressure as said above. but a light mist is fine IMO and have done this probably over a hundred times on mine with only one issue a few years back on the vec2 i had in it. that one time it got messed up and never happened after that.
dave6666
Enthusiast
Seeing as it is great paint remover, I won't even spray it in the same room as where the car is. But to each his/her own.
dave6666
Enthusiast
Sorry, daveman here. Those white spots are likely an oxide of the base metal sans aluminum oxide. Naval Jelly for aluminum should work but the down side is you will likely make a shiny spot and have to do the whole thing. Alternatively, just close the hood and drive the car.
eucharistos
Enthusiast
thanks for the replies gents
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