DIY Brake Fluid Change

[TheMilkman]

I may need some help here in correcting anything, or any step, I may be missing. I haven't changed my brake fluid before. I didn't see a how-to on the site either. I did my research and searched the forums and here is what I have come up with.

The part I am missing is if you don't have a pump or suction thing, do you just gravity bleed, or can you pump bleed to make it go a little faster?

I hear of people changing fluid at the track so it doesn't seem like it should be all that hard.


Choose your Fluid (3 bottles should be enough?)
CastrolGT-LMA - 509°F/311°F $5
ATE SuperBlue - 536°F/388°F $15
Motul RBF 600 - 593°F/420°F $15
CASTROL SRF - 590°F/518°F $69

List of materials needed.
Long funnel to reach Master cylinder
some 1/4" interior diameter plastic tubing, 1-2 feet
3/8" box end wrench
empty plastic bottle
turkey baster

step 1. drain most of the fluid from master cylinder using turkey baster or pump if you have one.

step 2. Remove tire(s) (in order of; Pass rear, Driver Rear, Pass Front, Driver Front, if using a tire iron wrap lugs with electrical tape so as not to scratch rim), clean off around rubber cover, then pull to remove, use a 3/8" box end wrench and try to loosen it 1/4 turn. Do the outer bleed screw first and then the inner . Attach the plastic tubbing to your valve, place a rag under the valve, then loosen the bleeder valve 1/4 to 1/2 turn, and fluid will slowly start to drip out, you may have to open the cap of the master cylinder and put it back on or leave it off, keep an eye on the master cylinder so it doesn't run out of fluid. (Pump the brakes to speed up the drip? )

step 3, Once the color changes to the new fluid, you will then turn the valve closed and pull off your tubbing, and go to the next wheel.

step 4, refill the Master cylinder after each wheel and check it often so it is never empty.



Thanks

 

[fqberful]

I may need some help here in correcting anything, or any step, I may be missing. I haven't changed my brake fluid before. I didn't see a how-to on the site either. I did my research and searched the forums and here is what I have come up with.

The part I am missing is if you don't have a pump or suction thing, do you just gravity bleed, or can you pump bleed to make it go a little faster?

I hear of people changing fluid at the track so it doesn't seem like it should be all that hard.


Choose your Fluid (3 bottles should be enough?)
CastrolGT-LMA - 509°F/311°F $5
ATE SuperBlue - 536°F/388°F $15
Motul RBF 600 - 593°F/420°F $15
CASTROL SRF - 590°F/518°F $69

List of materials needed.
Long funnel to reach Master cylinder
some 1/4" interior diameter plastic tubing, 1-2 feet
3/8" box end wrench
empty plastic bottle
turkey baster

step 1. drain most of the fluid from master cylinder using turkey baster or pump if you have one.

step 2. Remove tire(s) (in order of; Pass rear, Driver Rear, Pass Front, Driver Front, if using a tire iron wrap lugs with electrical tape so as not to scratch rim), clean off around rubber cover, then pull to remove, use a 3/8" box end wrench and try to loosen it 1/4 turn. Do the outer bleed screw first and then the inner . Attach the plastic tubbing to your valve, place a rag under the valve, then loosen the bleeder valve 1/4 to 1/2 turn, and fluid will slowly start to drip out, you may have to open the cap of the master cylinder and put it back on or leave it off, keep an eye on the master cylinder so it doesn't run out of fluid. (Pump the brakes to speed up the drip? )

step 3, Once the color changes to the new fluid, you will then turn the valve closed and pull off your tubbing, and go to the next wheel.

step 4, refill the Master cylinder after each wheel and check it often so it is never empty.



Thanks

Well you don't want to gravity bleed, you may get air everywhere.

If you have a friend / wifee to pump up the pressure so you can then open the bleeder, then when the pedal hits the floor, close the bleeder prior to helper releasing the pedal. Repeat until no air and clean fluid.

Easier way completely DYI, use speed bleeders. These replace the bleeder on the caliper. For a GenIII they are pn# SB1010SS M10x1.0

With speed bleeders you open the bleeder just a bit then pump brake pedal a few times until no air and clean fluid. Then close and go on to the next one. Great how-to's on their website.

Make double sure you don't let the reservoir run dry in any case.

HTH
--FQB

 

[jmasin]

I was bleeding brakes so often due to tracking I invested in one of these:

Motive Products

I only used it to pressurize, not actually fill the M/C, but you can pressurize the system, bleed a caliper, then refill the M/C and repeat. Just don't let the M/C run too low.

I prefer Motul 600, it is a fantastic track fluid.

you probably know this, but DO NOT GET BRAKE FLUID ON YOUR PAINT. It will strip it quickly. So take precautions. I normally keep a small bucket of soap/water handy just in case something dumb happens... but take all precautions.

If you are using the pedal to bleed with standard bleeders, you need two people. Don't push the pedal and let it back up with the bleeder open, you will just pull air/old fluid back in.

Otherwise, sounds like you've got it right.

Also, I'm pretty sure the shop manual says do the inner caliper bleed screw first, but I don't have it in front of me at work, so I could be completely wrong.

 

[JohnnyViper]

i think this is a great idea, i recently purchase a pneumatic brake bleeder from harbor freight and it was crap....protect your money and buy the one suggested

I was bleeding brakes so often due to tracking I invested in one of these:

Motive Products

I only used it to pressurize, not actually fill the M/C, but you can pressurize the system, bleed a caliper, then refill the M/C and repeat. Just don't let the M/C run too low.

I prefer Motul 600, it is a fantastic track fluid.

you probably know this, but DO NOT GET BRAKE FLUID ON YOUR PAINT. It will strip it quickly. So take precautions. I normally keep a small bucket of soap/water handy just in case something dumb happens... but take all precautions.

If you are using the pedal to bleed with standard bleeders, you need two people. Don't push the pedal and let it back up with the bleeder open, you will just pull air/old fluid back in.

Otherwise, sounds like you've got it right.

Also, I'm pretty sure the shop manual says do the inner caliper bleed screw first, but I don't have it in front of me at work, so I could be completely wrong.

 

[Dom426h]

Gravity bleed, yea maybee Overnight Just read one of the hundreds of rightups on the internet. Every car is the same

I use a Motive Pump Bleeder, but only for pressure since i dont like to waste fluid and have to clean that thing out. Manually fill the resevoir after each corner

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[GTLaser]

Gravity bleed, yea maybee Overnight Just read one of the hundreds of rightups on the internet. Every car is the same

I use a Motive Pump Bleeder, but only for pressure since i dont like to waste fluid and have to clean that thing out. Manually fill the resevoir after each corner

You must be registered for see images attach

Do you know exactly which model to order? Thanks!

 

[jmasin]

You can always get the multiple, but the Chrysler one should work with the Viper -
Chrysler Bleeder 0103 -- Motive Products Online Store

I need to order an adapter too, since I only have the GM bleeder.