Drag racers help me out

[Twister]

been doing a progression with my 03 srt10 for many years now..

Ill give you the roundabouts or you can read the complete history posted at the bottom


averageing 12.1 at 120 mph with 457 rwhp sae

averageing 11.9 at 121 mph with 475 rwhp sae

averageing 11.8 at 122 mph with 486 rwhp sae

averageing 11.6 at 124 mph with 515 rwhp sae



So heres my problem.....I did a lil more modification and got the power up to 540 rwhp SAE. I was expecting to average 11.4 at 126 mph. Instead Im averageing 12.0 at 120 mph??????

Done about ten passes and Im really stumped. Im haveing a hard time putting the power down with the nitto invois for sure. My question is.

IF IM SPINNING MORE IN FIRST GEAR AND EVEN SOME IN SECOND WOULD THIS MAKE MY MPH AND ET DROP LIKE THIS? I realize you gotta put the power down but shouldnt I still be trapping atleaste low 120s? Assuming the cars capable of averageing 126s with traction....


My car recently had a broken rocker that I fixed and test drove and it felt beastly.

I raced a supra when I was 486 rwhp and he was 440 rwhp. I put 3 cars on him every time in the 60-130 mph timed dual run events. He recently got a new tune and dynoed 570 rwhp. a full 130 rwhp increase. we did the same 60-130 mph event together again. this time we were dead even.


If I was beating him by 3 lengths at his 440 rwhp vs my 486 rwhp then his gaining 130 ponies to hit 570 rwhp would just walk by me right? So that means my car must be putting out the 540 rwhp?


my seat of the pants meater tells me Im faster. My 60-130 event running side by side the 570 rwhp supra tells me Im faster.

But my quartermile results are now back to when I was 457 rwhp?

anyone have any ideas?




































You can see on my first outing trying to learn the car I sucked pretty badly..LOL

2003 srt10 with roller rockers and kn filters at 457/492 SAE

1-12.7 @ 114
2-12.4 @ 115
3-12.4 @ 116
4-12.5 @ 115.6
5-12.4 @ 115

Man this car ***** I thought...Littel did I know that I was shifting when that damn yellow arrow appeared and really to early at 5500 rpm's or so

Tried shifting a lil later
6-12.4 @ 117.9

And then a lil later

7-12.37 @ 119.0
8-12.25 @ 119.3

And then on my 9th and final run shifting right before red line I clicked off a

9-12.08 @ 118.9 1.93 60 ft 7.9 @ 91.3 1/8
0-60 mph in 4.13

Very happy with the ET but dissapointed in the 119 max trapps I called it a night

Went back at it again a few days later( KN filters and roller rockers) 457/492 SAE

I baby shifted on these runs trying to see if I could hit 120 mph trapps

10-12.77 @ 115.6
11-12.75 @ 118.1
12-12.43 @ 120.2

YEA BABY a 120 trapp..Not to shabby and I called it a night

Went back out on another night( kn filters and roller rockers) 457/492 SAE

Tonight I wanted an 11 second pass and was all buisness


13-12.5 at 115.9 getting warmed up
14-12.4 @ 117.8
15-12.26@ 119.2
16-12.1 @ 120.5
17-11.97@ 121.3 60 ft 1.97 7.9 @ 93.5 1/8 0-60=4.05 !!!!!!!!! HELL YEA best ever with kn filter and roller rockers

18-12.1 @ 120.2
19-12.1 @ 120.1
20-12.05@ 122.2 ( highest mph yet)!!!!!!!!!!
21-12.08@ 121.4

Then I called it a night...

( kn filters and roller rockers plus cat/muffler delete) ???rwhp???rwt...added the cat/muffler delete and went back at it


22-12.22 @ 119.6
23-12.13 @ 118.8
24-12.03 @ 120.6
25-11.95 @ 121.9
26-11.92 @ 121.7
27-11.92 @ 121.5


Kn filters and roller rockers plus cat/muffler delete and removal of rain baffle...rwhp??? rwt???

28-12.2 @ 121.9
29-12.1 @ 120.4
30-12.0 @ 120.5
31-11.88@ 122.3 2.0 60 ft fastest ever WITH LOTS OF 11.9'S AND 121 MPH TRAPPS TO BACK IT UP

well honestly it seems like removeing the rain baffle gave me maybe a .5 mph benifit....looks like I was 120-122 mph all night...but befor removing the rain baffle MY runs would be in the 119.5-121.7 range


Had been a while and I have added the viper specialty SCT tune/findanza flywheel/titanium exhaust/underdrive pulley plus still the roller rockers and no cats and KN filter with the rain baffle still removed..Now dynoed at 476/512 SAE.

32-13.5 @ 117.5
33-12.1 @ 121.6
34-12.3 @ 121.2
35-12.0 @ 121.8
36-12.3 @ 122.2
37-12.1 @ 121.9
38-11.8 @ 122.1
39-11.67@ 122.7 60 foot 1.87 7.65 At 95.5 1/8 and 0-60 in 3.68 This was the best I have ever done period and it was nice to see the mods showing their face...

Next mod will be the revised BBK throttle body..Cant wait to test it out..

Never got the throttle body. Been a while and I since replaced the kn filters with a true kn air intake. I also added the comp coupe camshaft and some nitto invoi tires. The New power is 486/530 SAE.

40-12.8 @118
41-12.5 @119
42-12.2 @120.1
43-11.8 @121.6
44-11.78 @122.1
45-11.73 @122.3
46-11.70 @123.6
47-11.95 @122.8
48-11.72 @122.9
49-11.55 @124.8 off a 1.90 60foot. The 1/8 mile was 7.58 at at 97.7 mph. 0-60 mph in 3.60. New personal best!


Decided that only picking up 10 rwhp from the comp coupe camshaft was far to mild. Installed the 710 camshaft from RoeRacing. 515/545 SAE

50-12.1 @122.5
51-11.9 @121.8
52-11.63 @124.3
53-11.57 @124.5
54-11.73 @124.6
55-11.80 @123.2
56-11.77 @124.3
57-11.58 @123.9
58-11.75 @123.5
59-11.67 @124.2
60-11.67 @123.9


Retuned the 710 cam and hit 540/550 SAE

ran 10 times and got a bunch of low 12s at 118-120 mph..spinning more than usual but dont understand the low mph

 

[Steve M]

1. What gear are you crossing the traps in (3rd or 4th)?
2. Any pics of your dyno graphs? Any evidence of valvetrain instability?

You already know from the LSx community that Harland Sharp rockers usually cause more problems than they fix...are you sure they are really helping with the new cam?

 

[FLATOUT]

Yes spinning will kill your et. As for the mph if your having to peddle it to hook it up than yes your mph will be lower also.

Sounds like the new power is there since your role race was healthy. You're really going to have to learn how to drive it now to get lower et's at the new power level.

 

[Twister]

It used to be I could almost hold out third gear and change to fourth right before the 1320 line. But now it seems Im having to shift into fourth well before the 1320.

I have a video of the graph but it shows hardly anything other than the numbers.

yes the Harland Sharp rockers ****

 

[Steve M]

Shifting into 4th puts you in a really bad spot to cross through the traps...ideally, you'd cross through them at the top of whatever gear is suitable.

While spinning will kill your e.t., it shouldn't have much impact on your trap speeds unless you spin really, REALLY badly, or are spinning all the way through 3rd gear or something.

 

[Twister]

I guess Im figuring these gen4 guys with 540-550 rwhp sae can go on their stock tires first time ever dragging their new viper and get a 11.9 at 124 in bad cases and 11.2 at 129 with the good drivers.

at 540 rwhp Im of similar power and perhaps I have another 30 rwt at 560 vs a gen4s 530 tq.

I would think the nitto invois can hook just as well as gen4 rubber.

I was often spinning first from the start and then feathering and spinning again before the 2nd gear shift. Then the second gear shift seemed to have some spin too..

 

[Twister]

Shifting into 4th puts you in a really bad spot to cross through the traps...ideally, you'd cross through them at the top of whatever gear is suitable.

While spinning will kill your e.t., it shouldn't have much impact on your trap speeds unless you spin really, REALLY badly, or are spinning all the way through 3rd gear or something.

my cars third gear only goes to 121 mph at 6000 rpm. So not understanding why I have to shift to fourth well before the 1320 now unless its because of the spinning. as I was only trapping 118-120

 

[Twister]

heres the dyno

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P3S3W2d4oqA

 

[Nine Ball]

Your car power level has just exceeded your driving skill, that is all. Spinning hurts ET, but rarely hurts MPH. Sometimes a light spin in 1st even increases MPH, since you'll likely shift into 4th earlier than normal.

Get a set of cheap 18s, put some drag radials on it, go have fun.

 

[Malu59RT]

Twister,

If I'm not mistaken, you are getting your 1/4 times via a G-Tech or something else, on a public road, correct? You aren't racing at the track? Track prep is definitely needed to squeeze a good 60', and the Invo's take some heat to make them stick.

 

[Twister]

Ok we figured a way to guage performance so to speak.

My buddy has an 11 lp570 superlegerra all stock

At 455 rwhp he beat me by two lengths in timed 60-130 rolling events

At 486 rwhp he beat me by one length in timed 60-130 rolling events

Now at 540 rwhp I should be able to be a length or two ahead of him

 

[SoCal Rebell]

In my 2000 Gen II putting down 434 RWHP with a light weight fly wheel and 3.55 gears I had to throw 4th. One thing I did was lower the rear tire pressure to 20 psi any lower and the tires will "cup". Start is everything the reduced pressure helps grip, my best time was 12.04 @120.4 mph and a 1.86 60' time on Pilot Sports.

 

[Speedfreak]

Is there any chance there is something going on with your Gmeter. There is no way if you are getting well into 4th gear that you are trapping 120 mph with a stock gear. Something isn't right. Does that thing ever need a calibration or anything. I don't know much about them. Trap speed will vary some with wheel spin and e.t. but with your power level 120 seems inconceivable. E.T. might be bad but it would act like a supercharged car with a crappy e.t. from all the wheel spin but big mph.

 

[Viper X]

Sounds like you now have more HP and TQ than you are used to and not driving as well as you could or will with some practice.

Also, get some real tires. Nitto makes a very sticky drag radial, the NT05R and it is available in OE rear tire size. This tire will hold over 800 rwhp with an average driver. Get them warm, drop the air to 25 or so and you won't spin unless you try to.

Dan

 

[Twister]

Ive been usening the fx2 timer for 10 years now. Never had any issues but yea Ill look into this.

Nitto rears... Probally get those. Just a shame cause my nitto invois just hooked and went with 500 rwhp

 

[Camfab]

I was wondering what track you were racing at, I remember racing out at Hawaii Raceway Park in 2002. I was pretty sure there was no new dragstrip in Oahu. I wouldn't go by what those timers say, you have to get your car on a real track. I feel your pain. That was a really beat up track, but I really enjoyed it anyway. Funny thing is that area (Kapolei ?), was my favorite weather on the island, low humidity and higher temps. It reminded me of SoCal weather. Most of the Hawaiians I worked with hated the weather there.

 

[351carlo]

I thought your car was hurt and that's why you posted up the video with your daughter?

Anyhow, while that timer may have worked before, it's really inaccurate. I wouldnt trust it for such small differences.

 

[Twister]

LikeI said Ive beenuseing that timer for ten years and even tested it for accuracy at an actual drag strip and it did a great job.


Did 60-130 timed events with the lp570 superlegerra and edged him out when I got traction. Considering lp570s do 11.0 at 130 mph in the quarter then shes makin all the power

 

[Viktimize]

LikeI said Ive beenuseing that timer for ten years and even tested it for accuracy at an actual drag strip and it did a great job.


Did 60-130 timed events with the lp570 superlegerra and edged him out when I got traction. Considering lp570s do 11.0 at 130 mph in the quarter then shes makin all the power

Exactly!! So it sounds like your G-tech or whatever is no longer accurate. If your car is putting down the power on the dyno, physically performing the way it should at said power level, then what's left in the equation here?? Try not to over think the simple stuff. Are you an engineer?? Because that would explain the though process.

 

[Twister]

Im still thinking its the nitto invois. Ill test this theory when the Nt05Rs go on

 

[Viktimize]

Im still thinking its the nitto invois. Ill test this theory when the Nt05Rs go on

I don't mean to be rude but you've spelled that wrong every single time. They are Nitto INVO. I don't think they are french.

 

[Camfab]

I don't mean to be rude but you've spelled that wrong every single time. They are Nitto INVO. I don't think they are french.

You "Some(funny)guy"

 

[tucker]

My experience usening the Invois; I was averageing atleaste low 11's, and they hooked fine. Stock gears though.

 

[Steve M]

Did you get your crank pulley put back on yet?

 

[Twister]

Ordered a new bolt from RoeRacing. Need a new serpentine belt too.

Koolant hose busted and car overheated and crank pully came off. Belt got slight damage.

Havent confirmed it was a hose yet. Hopefully

Trials and tribulations lately but once shes good to go it will be all worth it


Tucker what car was this? Power level ect.

 

[Steve M]

I'd be more concerned about why the bolt backed out in the first place, allowing the crank pulley to come off.

 

[Twister]

Roe racing told me the cranks are not pinned and theyve had many srts do this. They offer a crank pinning package.

 

[Canyon707]

If you've done any drag racing, you've probably noticed that racers seem obsessed with 60ft ET's. There's a good reason for this. The first 60ft of the track sets the stage for the rest of the run and has a huge effect on the ability to "run the number" when bracket racing. Many beginning racers seem more concerned with top end mph thinking that if the car goes faster at the end of the track they'll pick up ET. However, top end speed isn't really as important as it first appears. Here's why - Think about the percentage of time that you spend traveling the first 60ft compared to the last 60' and you'll see that you spend a relatively large amount of “Your Time” in the first 60ft of the track. Now take that out to the 330ft mark and the compare it to the last 330 feet of the track. For an example, let’s use a car that can run 10.20’s in the 1/4 mile. Now lets do the math:

60ft = 1.470 for a total of 14% of the total ET. 330ft = 4.167for a total of 41% of the total ET.

You travel 25% of the total distance. You spent 40% of your total ET to travel that first 25% of the track. Now lets look at the 1000ft to 1320ft time compared to the 330ft ET: To get from the 1000ft timer to the 1320ft timer it took 1.73 seconds (10.20’s 1320ft ET - 8.40’s 1000ft ET) for a total of 17% of the total time. You've only spent 17% of your total ET to travel the last 25% of the distance. As you can now see, it takes almost as much time to travel the last 320ft as it does the first 60ft of the track. It takes 2.4 times longer to travel the first 330 feet as it does to travel the last 330ft. Actually 320ft, but its close enough for this comparison. This is why you gain ET by concentrating on the first 60ft or so of the track. You spend a proportionately greater deal of time in the first 60 to 330 ft and since ET is “Time”, it's easier to gain ET by working on the launch. I have seen cars picked up almost .3 in the 60' and about .4 overall when they switched from a 2500 converter to a 3500 stall, MPH stayed about the same. It would have taken an awful lot of MPH at the top end to pick up that much ET.