Re: Drag Radials on SRT-10\'s?
I relocated the e-brake linkage yesterday with the Archer kit I bought from JonB. Thank you ViperGMC for the comments on switching the cable bracket/plate from side to side and rerouting the e-brake cable through the frame. Overall, the job was pretty easy, with the possible exception of accessing and removing two of the four metal clips that attach the e-brake cable to the frame (you have remove them or there is not enough slack in the cable as rerouted). With all the plating under the car, it was moderately difficult, at least for me, to reach and remove the bolt-head screws holding these clips, especially since I first pulled on the cable and bent the clip over the bolt. Doh! I ended up accessing them through the square cutout in the plating and reaching back to the screws by feel alone. Anyone else do this a different way??? From start to finish, not including a trip to Sears for a larger allen wrench, it took me over two hours, but I’m methodically slow when it comes to such things. Having done it once, I could easily do it again in half the time without rushing.
Just some general notes on the mod for anyone interested (since Archer only provides two pictures, which are quite helpful by the way):
1. Obviously, the e-brake should not be set; but the car should be in gear.
2. The cable bracket/plate that must be switched from side-to-side, as ViperGMC points out, is the bracket/plate held on with a single yellow zinc screw (1/2-inch). The spring coil attached to this bracket/plate is actually pretty easy to work with and does not switch sides.
3. There are two ******* on the e-brake caliper to which the spring coil can be attached. With this mod, you switch the spring to the ****** not previously used.
4. There are four metal clips (two per side) attaching the e-brake cable to the frame that will be removed for cable rerouting.
5. The e-brake cable gets rerouted through the hole in the frame directly above the hole it originally came through (there are two options for rerouting and I’m not sure if the other one would work, as I didn’t try it).
6. There is an electrical wire (ABS sensor, I think) that is clipped to e-brake cable on both sides. You’ll have to unclip this wire from the cable since it does not have to be rerouted like the cable (no need to unplug it) and zip-tie it to a support as shown in the Archer pictures included with your kit, or at least that’s what I did.
7. Bolt on the Archer spacer block before attaching the end of the e-brake cable to the cable bracket/plate.
8. No tension or length adjustment is made to the e-brake cable—if it doesn’t appear to reach the clip on the cable bracket/plate after you’ve put everything else together, make sure the cable sleeve is property seated within the Archer spacer block, and simply pull on the cable end.
9. Tools needed—two allen wrenches (for removing the old linkage spacer and attaching the Archer spacer), ratchet with half-inch socket (for switching the cable bracket/plates), 3/8-inch socket and box wrench (for removing the metal cable clips), four zip-ties (for securing the ABS wire), a couple jack stands, jack, tire chocks, and lug wrench.
10. As far are order goes, it pretty straight forward. Here is what I did after jacking up the rear and removing both wheels: (i) remove the stock linkage spacer from the e-brake caliper (two bolts per side), (ii) swap the cable bracket/plates (one bolt and one spring coil per side), (iii) attached the Archer spacers (two bolts per side), (iv) remove the metal cable clips attaching the e-brake cable to the frame (four screws total), (v) remove the plastic clips connecting together the e-brake cable and the ABS wire (three or four clips per side), (vi) reroute the e-brake cable on each side, (vii) feed the e-brake cable end through the Archer spacer and clip it into the e-brake bracket/plate, and (viii) secure the ABS wire on both sides with zip-ties.
Thanks!
