Draining Fluidyne Rad?

Nadine UK GTS

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Have a Fluidyne ali radiator, and trying to drain it. Before, when ever I've done it I'm sure I just undone the little brass wing-tap like thing lower left corner of the rad. But, today turning the 2 wing-tabs you hold to undo, they are just spinning around on the brass threaded pipe that goes into a brass 9/16 nut. Tried to turn the nut with a spanner, and it doesn't feel like it wants to move, feels like it may break if it gives! Brass and ali being soft metals I'm not happy applying too much force! Tried some grips on the wing tabs and the threaded brass pipe started to go out of shape and the tabs still spun. Anyone familiar with this and can remember how it should undo to drain? Thanks.
 

Steve-Indy

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Nadine, I don't have fluidynes...but, there have been recommendations in the past to try a SLIGHT tightening TURN on the drain plug first...then try to back it out. Admittedly, one has to be careful and realixe that any torque could breat it.

Have you tried to heat the area AROUND the pitcock before turning??
 

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NADINE- your problem is due to Galvanic Corrosion. When you put a brass or copper plug or fitting into an aluminum radiator, and fill it with an electrolyte-(coolant), you get a "battery". The galvanic corrosion will eat the aluminim in the radiator as a sacrafice to the brass plug, and cause problems such as you are having, as well as leakage.

I am sorry to say, the radiator is shot. if those plugs have been in there any longer than a month or so, the radiator is structurally weakened, and can fail at any time. I have seen 5 or so radiators killed over this same mistake in a matter of months. (ONE OF THEM MINE! didnt even think about it...)

You can CHANCE drilling it and repairing it, but how long it will remain leak free after repair may not be worth the work involved to do it twice. One good way to tell if the radiator has been strongly affected is to pull off a hose, and look at the end of the aluminum in/out necks on the radiator. If they have turned dark gray or black where the alumium was exposed, toss it.

If you happen to have an aluminum plug that is causing the problems, it sounds like the typical aluminum 1/8 pipe problem...they ALWAYS want to strip out when you remove them... and get stuck. you have to drill them and tap them to 1/4 to get rid of the problem. 1/4 does it rarly, 1/8 is very frequent.

NOTE: NEVER, EVER use a brass or copper plug/fitting in an aluminum radiatior. ALWAYS use Aluminum plugs and fittings, or second best, Steel.
 
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Nadine UK GTS

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Thanks for your replys. Just read the post again and when I say undo, I seem remember the threaded pipe screws up into the nut, to expose a hole drilled in the threaded pipe bit so as to drain. But tried either way just incase my memories letting me down! Never thought of contacting the source direct for help, thanks Jim for the link. Felt at a loss and so came straight to the Viper family for help, and here it is. Great advise Steve, already tried the heat trick and slight torque the opp way you want to go, in an effort to get the thing to drain though and no go! Coated the plug in wax oil when first installed to stop corrision, but never thought of bi metalic, or the battery effect as Daniel's kindly pointed out. Thanks for the knowledge, that is exactly what's happened Daniel.

Rad's coming out then!
 

95Viper

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Does the stock 95 radiator come with a brass plug? I changed my fluid last year and I recall it being brass but I'm not sure.
 

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95 Viper- Yes, as far as I have ever seen, all stock radiators have brass plugs. But, they also arent Aluminum Radiators, so it doesnt matter.
 

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WOW, it made it for TWO YEARS with a brass plug in it? you either are using the best coolant ever, or change it once a month! lol!
 
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Nadine UK GTS

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I've only ever used Mopar coolant and distilled water 50/50; I do change it quite regular, I think about 3 times in the last couple of years! Daniel can you recommend a good aluminum radiator please? I want something with much improved cooling over OE as I go out on track and also have a SC. (I'm going to keep the Fluidyne and do something with it, but I plan to email them re the problem).
 

Viper Specialty

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NADINE- Highly recomend Ron Davis Racing Radiators. However, I also strongly recomend going with the version that incorporates 1.25" tubes, and an internal oil cooler. With the internal oil cooler, you can ditch the oil cooler in your front bumper, (helping the A/C work more efficiently) and cool your oil better. As I am sure you know, heat transfer between liquids is much better than between air and a liquid. I have used this radiator for over a year, and LOVE it. Its a little more $$, but worth every penny.

I also happen to sell RD rads, but I promise, I am not giving you a sales pitch. If you would like one, let me know. Price from me 800+shipping, and you will need new oil lines as well. (I can supply for approx 90 bucks for the pair, or you can make your own. I use only the best to make them, Aeroquip Fittings, SS braided lines.) Build time on one of these units is 7-10 days.

(PS- I am VCA sponsor too! lol)
 

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Brazed copper core & tanks. (SRT has an AL rad stock, but it isnt anything like aftermarket ones...)
 
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Nadine UK GTS

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Daniel, I don't care much for AC (although left it there)! But I likes what you says, you going to Chucks BBQ this year again (I missed you in person last year but did see your car) I can sort you with cash if you can bring!?
 

Viper Specialty

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LOL! That would be the day you could get an RD Rad box in a Viper, hahah!

However, I suppose if you let me know ahead of time, I could order it, and have it sent to Tator's Dodge? I would bring the hoses with if you want them.

Hmm, I dont know who's car you saw at Chuck's BBQ last year, wasnt me though, unfortunatly I missed it. Planning on going this year though! I suspect it was Moundir that you saw, as I believe he attended the BBQ, and also has the same car as me.
 

JonB

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I like to do business with VCA sponsors. Jon B at www.partsrack.com has a good aluminum radiator by "Ron Davis" racing. I personally have used this brand in my 650R for the last 4 years, and have been completely satisfied.

many thanks Jim.....

Nadine, we can stick it in the UK container next month or 'creatively invoice' you one and ship same day..... THANKS!
 

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Has Fluidyne addressed this problem? How does a company who makes radiators not know about this interaction between metals?
 

Shelby3

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I emailed the Fluidyne tech department and this was their response.

"We have been using the brass drain plugs in our aluminum radiators for over 10 years, and have never had a problem. As an example, consider an engine that has brass expansion plugs, that last forever. You should not experience any problems."

Anyone have opinions as to is correct, Mr. Lesser or the manufacturer?
 

Tom F&L GoR

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If the radiator was shot, why isn't then the block also? (Aren't the temperature sensors brass?)

The interior coloration of exposed metal surfaces depends on the inhibitor chemisty used in the antifreeze. Silicate, hybrid or OAT inhibitors will look different and color alone isn't a good evaluation.
 

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