Emergency brake slips

[DJ'sviper]

I had Berlinger headers put on and new exhast and it sounds great and my mechanic did a good job. However, when I pull the emergency brake it slips to the top postion and then usually catches the second pull. This is annoying. It never did this before I brought it into him. When I brought it up to him he worked on it but never got it to catch on the first pull. Is this a simple fix?

Does anyone have any suggestions or have this happened to them. I have a '93 r10.
Thanks

 

[01sapphirebob]

My '01 is doing the same thing. Feels like there no tension in it on the first pull right? I'm going to pull the console cover off and see if I can tighten the cable or at the very least see whats going on.

 

[LifeIsGood]

Belanger...

 

[dave6666]

Isn't there an adjustment at the caliper?

 

[dave6666]

Oh, and just thought of this. Might want to get the car back on a rack and look at the cables versus the exhaust. If he did an entire new exhaust system, those go by each other. He could have put one of the cables in a quandry, or misplaced it from an anchor point / bracket.

 

[CEJ]

Try pulling up the emergency brake handle slowly, and it should be okay. The Wizard suggested this to me, as my e-brake lever was doing the same as you all described here

 

[TomH]

http://forums.viperclub.org/threads...not-catch...?highlight=emergency+brake+button

 

[vancouver-gts]

The ratchet mechanism only holding the brake lever locked in the up position.The rotating assembly the brake cable is attached to is fixed to the brake lever rotating piece .My suspicion is that maybe the spot welding that holds the two pieces together maybe cracked and slipping.I have two pictures taken ,450kb ea, but can't upload them here.Apparently I've exceeded my quota of 750kb,LOL
By removing the brake lever boot ,using a penlight,it's easy to see if you have a problem with those welds.

 

[LifeIsGood]

I know this doesn't help alot, but this is what it looks like under the center console...

You must be registered for see images

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

As said above your yanking the handle to fast upward.

 

[AJ02]

As said above your yanking the handle to fast upward.

Agreed. If I pull up on mine too fast, it's like there's no cable attached. Put it back down and pull slower and all is good.

 

[DJ'sviper]

Thanks for all the feedback. I did notice that when I pull the handle slowly it works But only did it once. Have go back out and see if this is a consistent thing. Dave 666 I think you also have a very valid point, because it worked fine until he did the work on the car. Maybe I was just yanking it to hard all the time until it broke. It had such a satisfying feeling of pulling it back and locking it down. LOL I'll keep you up to date on it.

 

[DJ'sviper]

I went back and pulled the handle slowly up. Each time it got tighter and tighter. Started the car to see if it would reset if moved and it was tight again. I did not move the car very far. Each time I slowly pulled the handle it got even tighter to there were only like two clicks. So I ****** on the handle and it stuck right away. Maybe the slow pulling adjusted the cable. Anyway seems to be working now. Lot easier to just pull the brake handle than take it apart.

Berlanger/Berlinger shot/sh_t what's in a vowel anyway. LOL Thanks for the correction and all the help VCA

 

[Dom426h]

I've had this issue with my Gen2 for a couple years now.

At first it would slip on the first pull then catch on the 2nd or 3rd
a few months later i would have to fiddle with it and pull up slowly untill i felt it catching then go back and forth a little until it caught
a few months later, fiddling with it stopped working and would only catch at random, sometimes only after like 20 up&downs
now it will not grab at all

Like it slowly just gave up after time

 

[vancouver-gts]

Didn't have a chance to dive in to investigate the system but surely it's not rocket science to figure it out.Drum brakes had a ratchet system that adjusted the shoes while backing the car up.Disc brakes have a worm screw that adjust the pads as they wear for the rear.I've replaced the OEM brake system on my car with the BBK kit.
The e-brake from IPSCO is separate and I don't have a slipping problem. I've had slipping a couple of occasions with the OEM combination rear brake that's off of a Renault,LOL. I don't think Chrysler would have spent $$$ designing a complicated clutch system in the e-brake at the lever.But ,I could be wrong.Maybe the engineers should address the symptom, since it's a safety feauture and Chrysler could be liable.Never seen a recall on this issue!

 

[slowfrc]

I've had this issue with my Gen2 for a couple years now.

At first it would slip on the first pull then catch on the 2nd or 3rd
a few months later i would have to fiddle with it and pull up slowly untill i felt it catching then go back and forth a little until it caught
a few months later, fiddling with it stopped working and would only catch at random, sometimes only after like 20 up&downs
now it will not grab at all

Like it slowly just gave up after time

I'm in the same boat.

 

[GTS Dean]

Me three...

 

[dave6666]

The cables do stretch, as that's what cables do over time.

 

[Turbokraft]

Same with my 97 GTS.

 

[vancouver-gts]

The cables do stretch, as that's what cables do over time.

Dave ,it isn't as simple as that. Once a cable get stretched it stays streched and taking up the slack it would require re-adjusting .When the slip happened on my car the brake lever literally came up straight like the cable wasn't attached.Putting the lever back down,next pull up it was normal again.Are you saying there's a hidden ratcheting mechanism [ similar to adjust some trottle cables on cars] that readjusts the cable in a bracket somewhere underneath the car? I had my car on the hoist and didn't see any.Is there an adjuster above the plate ? Don't want to start unbolting it,maybe you have a picture somewhere since you're always wrenching on yours,lol

 

[djviper]

My car does this to if I yank to quickly... since it's so common I'm going to guess it's just another viper "feature."

 

[dave6666]

No fancy mechanism. Very straight forward. The cables connect to the caliper, and as in LIG's photo above, that motion is transferred to a linear pull on the cables via the handle mechanism. There may be a logarithmic ratio in the cam on the handle tho, meaning the "pull" changes as the handle reaches the end of it's motion.

How worn are your rear pads? When was the last time the caliper was off and the slides were lubricated?

 

[vancouver-gts]

No fancy mechanism. Very straight forward. The cables connect to the caliper, and as in LIG's photo above, that motion is transferred to a linear pull on the cables via the handle mechanism. There may be a logarithmic ratio in the cam on the handle tho, meaning the "pull" changes as the handle reaches the end of it's motion.

How worn are your rear pads? When was the last time the caliper was off and the slides were lubricated?

Dave, you asking me or the OP? I have the DBB kit with the aftermarket billet e-brake setup from IPSCO.No problem with my e-brake now at all.
I had the slip with the crappy OEM Brembo combination caliper.

 

[dave6666]

Dave ,it isn't as simple as that. Once a cable get stretched it stays streched and taking up the slack it would require re-adjusting .When the slip happened on my car the brake lever literally came up straight like the cable wasn't attached.Putting the lever back down,next pull up it was normal again.Are you saying there's a hidden ratcheting mechanism [ similar to adjust some trottle cables on cars] that readjusts the cable in a bracket somewhere underneath the car? I had my car on the hoist and didn't see any.Is there an adjuster above the plate ? Don't want to start unbolting it,maybe you have a picture somewhere since you're always wrenching on yours,lol

Dave, you asking me or the OP? I have the DBB kit with the aftermarket billet e-brake setup from IPSCO.No problem with my e-brake now at all.
I had the slip with the crappy OEM Brembo combination caliper.

I'm not asking anybody anything. In fact, you asked me a question. Keep up...

In regards to the DBB / Ipsco "e-brake," it is in fact not actually an emergency brake, but a "spot" caliper that is designed to keep an already stationary vehicle, stationary. It will pass inspection and will offer some assistance in slowing a vehicle that otherwise has no means, but it is not equal to the original mechanical braking system i.e. the factory e-brake.

 

[vancouver-gts]

I it is not equal to the original mechanical braking system i.e. the factory e-brake.

On the contrary, I never had a car new or used that the OEM e-brake holding a car on a slope from rolling backwards like the IPSCO on my car,lol.
The important thing with the IPSCO e-brake is it requires proper clearance between the rotor and pad to work well.For people with no mechanical skills it may not be the best system if they forget to release the e-brake and drag it for a while occasionally.

Ps; might want to add, if some of you guys don't use the e-brake every time you park your cars for a lengthy time, the worm screw helical may get stuck.What happens is the brake pads worn and there's an extra clearance between the rotor and pad.At the first pull,the lever travels an extended distance [ the slip ] to turn the helical gear inside the caliper to re-adjust the gap.The brake is now operating fine as most experience after.There's no black magic to it.Matter of fact when I replaced the OEM system, found the e-brake seized on the passenger side,completely.